1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

[Andy3]

I read that I should remove the valve body and motor as a unit, but that's like impossible. I had 2 issues when trying to remove the unit. One was the hydraulic line closest to the transom. Almost no room for a wrench. My other problem was the third bolt holding the unit to the transom mount. It was closet to the transom, and very difficult to get to. When I reinstall, I don't see any way to connect the hydraulic lines before bolting to the transom mount. Just no room. Is there a special wrench or something that I should be using?

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

undo the back two oil tubes from the cylinders and remove with pump. After the pump is off boat the lines are easy to remove without stripping port threads. Installation is reverse of same procedure.

instead of using hex bolts from pump side, use sockethead bolts from backside of transom clamp. run them through clamp and use them as studs. thise reduces the amount of turns needed inside the pump bracket. all you can do is use a 12pt wrench and turn in very small increments.

 

[Andy3]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

That's the info I was looking for. Not sure what sockethead bolts are, but I see what you're getting at. Nuts on studs will go easier than trying to get bolts started in that tiny little space.

 

[Andy3]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

I've also been looking at the "new" motors on ebay. All of them have the motor wires coming out of the top of the motor instead of the side, and most of them dont look like they have given much thought to sealing that up to prevent water intrusion. Has anyone bought one of those off ebay and had any issues?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

Also: You can go to the local auto store and but 1/2 inch distributor wrench. It has a special bend to it that makes it easier to get into tight spots.

 

[maverick974]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

I just went thru this. It got a stubby 12 point wrench. I was able to get it in there and get the bolts out. Can't turn them much all at once but if you aren't in a hurry, they come out just fine.

 

[Andy3]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

What size are the hydraulic line fittings? I used a 3/8" wrench, which worked, but I'm sure they're metric or something, right?

 

[TMALEGA]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

As for the motor unit you refered to i got one from a local guy here on the site and he suggested i put a hershey kiss on top of the harness to seal that off and to take some paint and paint around the seal on the cap to help seal it off. Has not failed as of yet. "knock on wood." i do need to repaint the whole motor though as the paint faded on the rest of the motor and it looks bad now since i used the high end paint on the top. Not thinking of the other half , had i been smart i would have hit it all at once and been done with it all. Hope that helps.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

As for the motor unit you refered to i got one from a local guy here on the site and he suggested i put a hershey kiss on top of the harness to seal that off and to take some paint and paint around the seal on the cap to help seal it off. Has not failed as of yet. "knock on wood." i do need to repaint the whole motor though as the paint faded on the rest of the motor and it looks bad now since i used the high end paint on the top. Not thinking of the other half , had i been smart i would have hit it all at once and been done with it all. Hope that helps.

The 3w aftermarkets are okay motors. Given the time & cost of doing a quality rebuild for an oem product it's tough to cost justify. I would almost always go for a $130 ebay special.

the 2w aren't so clear cut. if your old 2w is in decent shape then it can be rebuilt in the $90 range. The aftermarket has a better reservoir but the oem has better gasketing and cable entrance. Also, if your original motor does not have any rust then you can usually renew it in the $35 range.

bottom line -
3w > unless somebody throws a 3w motor at me for cheap i would always go for a new aftermarket first.
2w > if it isn't rusted and the magnets are solid then I'd rebuild the original. If I did have rust or other damage pushing me away from rebuild then I'd make sure to rig up some kind of anode strap. The 2w ebay cheapies that I have worked on have shown a propensity for stray currents that induce galvanic corrosion. A good anode strap will nullify that.

on any aftermarket not made in USA - the through bolts are probably not stainless and should be covered up with plasticoat or something.

 

[Andy3]

Re: 1988 Bayliner, Force 125, tilt trim motor & valve removal

I'm leaning toward refreshing my original motor. Is there a kit for the motor? The brushes dont seem to be removable. I'd need that shaft seal in the reservoir too, along with the large orings.