Re: 1987 Suzuki 115 Questions
> 87' 115 Suzuki<br />> powerhead was rebuilt<br />> only has 50 Hrs. on it<br />> The boat has sat for two years <br /><br />>and even though he has not tried, I don't think<br />>it will start?<br /><br />Hi,<br />If it start, there is a slight risk the impeller <br />(waterpump, rubber wheel) is not fresh. Impeller <br />should be changed every or every second year<br />depending how the engine is used.<br />There is a slight risk that if you start an <br />engine that has sat for 2 years some blade(s)<br />on the impeller rubber wheel will loose and get <br />sucked in the cooling system causing a block.<br /><br />If You run it on land make sure you use watermuffs<br />on both sides of the fin where the main <br />waterintake is and the muff connected to an <br />ordinary garden water house with plenty of water.<br /><br />The outboard watermuffs can be bought in any <br />marine shop.<br />But best to test with whole boat in water and <br />actually take a ride in the boat so you can see <br />how engine behave at load and whole rpm range.<br /><br />Make sure you get the reason the head was rebuilt.<br />(because of overheat?)<br /><br />Battery: is it fresh? (Maybe best to use a new<br />if the old has sat for over two years also).<br /><br />If it starts, make sure you can see water coming <br />out of main water outlet and also on the tell-<br />tale tube(a smaller jet of water that will spray<br />to the side at about 45 deg that indicate the<br />impeller is working) and indirect tell you the <br />cooling system probably is OK (but cooling <br />channel can be clogged somewhere even so and <br />thermostat not working or stuck even so - risk for<br />overheat then).<br /><br />>He said that the cyl. have 120# each.<br /><br />I do not know if that is a normal value for your<br />87' Suzuki 115.<br /><br />>What should I look for in the event that the <br />>engine won't start cause it's been sitting for<br />>such a long time? <br /><br />Thing I would check:<br />A. Whole chain from gasoline tank to carburators<br />- Open the airvent in fuel tank (easy to forget) <br />and also prime with the fuel rubber bulb <br />few times before trying to start (but the owner <br />should know this).<br />- Fueltank is clean inside.<br />- Fuelfilter and/or waterseparator (if any)<br />is clean.<br />- Fule line including connectors and fuel bulb<br />has no fault (rubber tend to rotten over time).<br />- At start use the choke (lever up) and primer<br />on control box(primer activate when you press <br />towards the controlbox at the same time you turn <br />black "start key", it is described in owners <br />manual).<br />- Do not use old gasoline, buy new.<br />- New spark plugs with right gap is also a good<br />thing to use.<br /><br />B. Carburators clean (hope someone with more <br />knowledge than me can tell how to clean them if <br />needed) including check that all rubber lines <br />that carry gasoline , around the carburators, is <br />not rotten.<br /><br />>This would be my first encounter with a suzuki <br />>autboard. Are these engines any good?<br /><br />I have a Suzuki 1991, a 65 HP (DT 65). It has <br />worked fine 3 years I had it. Last week I got <br />overheat warning but it is probably a thermostat <br />problem, I'm trying to sort that out.<br />I do not know how service availability is in your <br />area but to know the outboard can be serviced <br />quickly and professionally is probably rather <br />high on list of important things you should <br />consider before buy this outboard engine.<br /><br />If you actually buy this outboard and plan to do<br />some "light" maintenance yourself I suggest you<br />buy a Suzuki Manual (Clymer or Selco). I have <br />both for my outboard.<br />Also if you buy it: if it has been used in <br />saltwater the cooling channels and thermostat <br />should be checked so no salt build up in them.<br />And I would replace the impeller the first thing<br />since it is at least two years and to old.<br />Grease all greasepoints also.<br /><br />Gearcase oil - very important you check level<br />and no water or other pollution in it, best<br />if you change all gearcase oil, it should be<br />done every season anyway.<br /><br />Check the prop - I changed prop this year<br />and there is much less vibration now since there<br />is better balance in this new prop (I did not<br />know for sure with my old prop before I changed <br />to a new, the old was "worn" so I assumed a new<br />would be better).<br /><br />If it is a container with oil on the front on the <br />engine, that is used for automatic <br />oil-fuelmixture, make sure that oil is fresh.<br /><br />Electrical system: risk it in not so good shape<br />if boat and engine sat (outside?) for two years.<br />So maybe check over all electrical things you<br />can inspect with your eyes and make sure no "bad<br />contacts".<br /><br />The bad thing with (older) two stroke outboards<br />are that they drink much fuel and they are not so<br />environmently friendly but I try to help a little<br />by using outboard marine oil that is biological <br />decomposable (little more expensive).<br />The fuel itself is not so much to do about but I <br />hope acrylat fuel will be more widespread and <br />easier to buy (it is more expensive than ordinary <br />gasoline).<br />Also there is more noise at all rpm and it smell<br />little gasoline sometimes at lower rpm. A 4 stroke<br />outboard would take care of almost all these <br />problems but I can not afford one for the moment.<br />The good thing with a 2 stroke outboard is they <br />are not so heavy and have good power.<br /><br />I'm rather happy with my 1991 Suzuki DT 65.<br /><br />Hope it helps some. I'm sure I forgot many things<br />you should look for but use above as a starting<br />point.<br /><br />Good luck!
