1986 35hp Force lower unit.

[MattC83]

Trying to drop the lower unit and the shift linkage is holding me up because the cover plate is in the way. I know there has to be and easier way. Thanks in advance.

 

[Nordin]

Trying to drop the lower unit and the shift linkage is holding me up because the cover plate is in the way. I know there has to be and easier way. Thanks in advance.

No MattC83 there are no easier way!! This is a really bad engineering.
You have to remove the shock mount lower so you are able to tilt the leg/svivel.
But if the engine been i salt water the bolts for the shock mount cover will be a PITA to unscrew. Large risk you snap them.

I have worked with these 30-35Hp and I have grind two wrenches, one 3/8 and one 7/16 so I am able to unscrew the coupling without removing the shock mount cover lower.
But it is still with these mod wrenches a patient job.
But it is possible to do.......be patient.

 

[MattC83]

No MattC83 there are no easier way!! This is a really bad engineering.
You have to remove the shock mount lower so you are able to tilt the leg/svivel.
But if the engine been i salt water the bolts for the shock mount cover will be a PITA to unscrew. Large risk you snap them.

I have worked with these 30-35Hp and I have grind two wrenches, one 3/8 and one 7/16 so I am able to unscrew the coupling without removing the shock mount cover lower.
But it is still with these mod wrenches a patient job.
But it is possible to do.......be patient.

So you mean the shock mounts and cover that are below are the cover or the two that are above up under the engine cowl? All this just to change an impeller. What pain. New motor to me, anytng special I need to know thats a pain

No MattC83 there are no easier way!! This is a really bad engineering.
You have to remove the shock mount lower so you are able to tilt the leg/svivel.
But if the engine been i salt water the bolts for the shock mount cover will be a PITA to unscrew. Large risk you snap them.

I have worked with these 30-35Hp and I have grind two wrenches, one 3/8 and one 7/16 so I am able to unscrew the coupling without removing the shock mount cover lower.
But it is still with these mod wrenches a patient job.
But it is possible to do.......be patient.

So are you talking about the lower mounts below the cover plate or the mount above it under the cowl? Anything crazy when changing the impeller?

 

[Nordin]

So you mean the shock mounts and cover that are below are the cover or the two that are above up under the engine cowl? All this just to change an impeller. What pain. New motor to me, anytng special I need to know thats a pain

So are you talking about the lower mounts below the cover plate or the mount above it under the cowl? Anything crazy when changing the impeller?

I mean the lower covers that holds the steering tube and is covering the rubber shock mount at each side the midleg.
BTW I see in then pics they are removed.
At this moment you should be able to tilt the leg or you maybe have to loosen the shock mount that are at the midleg facing at the transom.
Tilt midleg so you are able to loosen the shift rod coupling.
As I said in post #2 you can grind some 7/16 (long nut) and 3/8 I believe (stop nut) wrenches so you are able to unscrew the shift rod coupling.
When loosing the stop nut just loose it 1/8 of a turn just to be able to turn the long one, cause then you have the right adjustment of the shift rod.
The long nut has a very steep thread so just a 1/4-1/2 of a turn has a large affect of the adjustment.

 

[MattC83]

I mean the lower covers that holds the steering tube and is covering the rubber shock mount at each side the midleg.
BTW I see in then pics they are removed.
At this moment you should be able to tilt the leg or you maybe have to loosen the shock mount that are at the midleg facing at the transom.
Tilt midleg so you are able to loosen the shift rod coupling.
As I said in post #2 you can grind some 7/16 (long nut) and 3/8 I believe (stop nut) wrenches so you are able to unscrew the shift rod coupling.
When loosing the stop nut just loose it 1/8 of a turn just to be able to turn the long one, cause then you have the right adjustment of the shift rod.
The long nut has a very steep thread so just a 1/4-1/2 of a turn has a large affect of the adjustment.

Just the covers to the motor mounts on the side of the leg are removed. I haven't taken them actually off yet. I did take off the front one to see if it freed up more room to move the plate but it did not. So the 2 up above that connect the swivel and base plate, loosen those 2 to get more flex in the leg your saying? Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

 

[MattC83]

I mean the lower covers that holds the steering tube and is covering the rubber shock mount at each side the midleg.
BTW I see in then pics they are removed.
At this moment you should be able to tilt the leg or you maybe have to loosen the shock mount that are at the midleg facing at the transom.
Tilt midleg so you are able to loosen the shift rod coupling.
As I said in post #2 you can grind some 7/16 (long nut) and 3/8 I believe (stop nut) wrenches so you are able to unscrew the shift rod coupling.
When loosing the stop nut just loose it 1/8 of a turn just to be able to turn the long one, cause then you have the right adjustment of the shift rod.
The long nut has a very steep thread so just a 1/4-1/2 of a turn has a large affect of the adjustment.

 

[Nordin]

Okey, I do not want to loose these two upper cause the rubber intend to dry and the vulcanization to the upper stud get loose and then you have to replace the whole rubber shock.
Just to remember not to loose the stop nut at the shift rod for mor the 1/8 of a turn or just enough so you can turn the long nut.
Then you do not get problem with the adjustment of the shift rod.

 

[MattC83]

Another question for you knowledgeable people. Where is my 1986 Force 35hp tell-tale? Where should I be seeing water come out after the inlet takes it up to the motor leg?

 

[Nordin]

Water will come out at the "nose" at the back of the leg.
There are two holes at the nose at the cover and it act as idle relief to.
Most of the water come out at the exhaust outlet at the LU, just above the prop.
There water flow from the nose can slow down when you start to throttle up in gear, it is normal.
The flow is more intensive when idling as it act as idle relief.
Chrysler and Force did not have a regular tell tale "pisser" as other brands.
You can add one at you engine. There is a plug at top of the head, a stainless steel plug but it can be a PITA to unscrew it.

 

[MattC83]

Water will come out at the "nose" at the back of the leg.
There are two holes at the nose at the cover and it act as idle relief to.
Most of the water come out at the exhaust outlet at the LU, just above the prop.
There water flow from the nose can slow down when you start to throttle up in gear, it is normal.
The flow is more intensive when idling as it act as idle relief.
Chrysler and Force did not have a regular tell tale "pisser" as other brands.
You can add one at you engine. There is a plug at top of the head, a stainless steel plug but it can be a PITA to unscrew it.

Thank you very much for clearing this up for me. So I should not be worried about not seeing water while in barrel? Is it good to add the tell-tale or no? Any diagram or picture you could point me to the screw? I appreciate it!

 

[topgun3690]

Check the "stickies" at the top of this forum. The one for "Force and Chrysler FAQ" click on it.....there is a thread for adding a tell tale "pisser"

 

[topgun3690]

Well something must have happened during the forum changeover.....that link for adding a tell tale takes you to a thread about Rosie O'donnel! Lol You could do a forum search instead for "adding tell tale". Looks like a few of those links are screwed up!

 

[The Force power]

[QUOTE="MattC83, post: 5617802, member: 578848" So I should not be worried about not seeing water while in barrel? Is it good to add the tell-tale or no? [/QUOTE]
There should be water(incl. exhaust fumes) coming out of the two relieve-holes; when running in a barrel! (in gear or not)
The leg is NOT actually going forward & there for not creating a drag/vacuum that causes the return-water (incl. exhaust-fumes) to be exiting through the Prop. and/or exhaust-snout

I would advice to install a "Tell-tail" as this is another feature to keep an eye on the cooling water flow
Not sure where the plug for the Tell-tail would be on a 35 HP ( I imagine in the head) look for it