You have to lift the powerhead off.-----You have to split the block.----You have to lift the crankshaft about 1/2" to get reed blocks out.----What is your motor doing / not doing for you ????
You have to lift the powerhead off.-----You have to split the block.----You have to lift the crankshaft about 1/2" to get reed blocks out.----What is your motor doing / not doing for you ????
Well in 2012 I burnt the motor up the first time I took it to the lake. I found out why you don't trust the old auto blend systems. I knew nothing about
boats it was the first one I had ever had. So a local marina rebuilt it for me all new pistons ect. But he didn't change the reed valves and didn't even ask if I wanted him too he later said they didn't look too bad. However had he asked I would of said to replace them. Well ever since it just seems like I can't seem to find a good idle. Its either falling on its face on acceleration or it loads up and wants to die on idle. Runs great at all other throttle positions. So I just thought maybe the reeds. The only other thing he told me was when he took it apart the middle carb was different than the other 2 so he swithed it with one he had that matched the other 2. Don't know if that would have anything to do with it.
Unlikely your issue is reed valves. Your carbs are all cleaned and rebuilt with new gaskets, inlet needles, seats and floats? Your ign timing is spot on? You are adjusting the carbs in the water, in gear with fresh 50::1 fuel mix?
Those things are necessary. A leaking fuel pump diaphragm can also cause the engine to bog upon acceleration.
Unlikely your issue is reed valves. Your carbs are all cleaned and rebuilt with new gaskets, inlet needles, seats and floats? Your ign timing is spot on? You are adjusting the carbs in the water, in gear with fresh 50::1 fuel mix?
Those things are necessary. A leaking fuel pump diaphragm can also cause the engine to bog upon acceleration.
Well its good to know its most likely not the reed valves. Yes he rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump replaced the stator and the fuel hose. Of course this was all done in 2012 so its been 11 years but it always been a problem. I've always had to goose the throttle a little every time I put it in forward or reverse because it tends to die (which I have always attributed to the stainless prop being much heavier than the original aluminum prop) if I don't and just kind of idles rough. if I give it just a little throttle its fine. But if I set the idle at the rpm recommended it just seems a little rough and will die if i don't give it a little throttle. I have also replaced both switch boxes the starter and starter solenoid.
The carbs can have unique idle mixture settings. usually, the top carb is the most open, followed by the mid carb. However, you need to use trial and error (and a friend is nice), to set them properly.
