1985 OMC 800 stringer

bill and doris

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I purchased a new water pump and thought I understood where the pump was but after dropping the lower end figured out I didn't. I have reviewed the parts breakdown again and realize it is in the top, I think. We did remove the 4 bolts in the top and the unit began to drop, but we were not sure what we were getting into so we pulled it back up and decided to restart later. Do I need to undo the 4 bolts in the top cover and let the whole unit drop? I know I need to be careful about the shift cable. Are there any words of advise anyone can give?
 

southkogs

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

Impeller for your drive should be at the bottom of the upper gear case. On a mechanical shift, I'm not sure if it's easy to take the drive off (on my ES it is) - but I will normally take my drive off, take the top cover off, lift the upper gear case out and change the impeller on the bottom.

Gotta' manual?
 

bill and doris

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

Don't have a manual, but maybe I need to find one. When we took the 4 bolts on the cover off the whole outdrive began to drop. I don't know if there is enough length on the shift cable to let it go far enough down to get at the top of the pump.
 

southkogs

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

It would be good for you to get a manual. Some very useful stuff HERE and HERE.

The Stringer holds together by assembling 2 gear cases and the exhaust cover. When you started unbolting the top cap you were essentially starting to separate the upper and lower gear cases by releasing the exhaust cover. Impeller is about halfway down the drive from the cover you were unbolting.

I don't know about that shift cable, I do know they're expensive and you really want to be careful with it.
 

floattest

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

Look at the pictures in this thread. This is how you get to the water pump IF you don't remove the drive.

The other way is to remove drive and separate the two halves on the bench in the shop.

When you take the four bolts out of the top cover/exhaust housing gravity will take effect. Be prepared.

Then just swing the whole lower assembly out of the way and get out your mechanics crawler because you are going to wrestle with 4 very big bolts, upside down, bolts sealed with concrete :) Get a big wrench.

sorry, I dramatize. It's not that hard, You can do it.

Oh, and the manual will answer ton of questions. worth every penny.

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...utdrives/omc-impeller-replacement-323034.html
 

bill and doris

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

I appreciate the reply and the thread to the procedure. The pictures helped inspire me to take it to a dealer and have it done. I am sure we can do it, but I am getting to that age where I have the time, but sometimes it is just better to let the younger folks earn a living. If the water pump and new thermostat doesn't fix the overheat problem I can tear into the engine without too much problem.
 

superbenk

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

The water pump is pretty easy & you really need to pull the drive to do it. You can do it with the drive on but since you need to drop the bottom half it gets really awkward to do it on the boat. You need to remove the shift cable from the converter box at the back of the engine to be able to pull it out through the intermediate gearcase. There's a small retaining clip that holds it on the intermediate housing you'll need to remove. Use some silicon spray to help lube the cable to remove/reinstall it.

Definitely get a manual! Even the Solec manual does ok for most things.
 

southkogs

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

If you can't find a marine guy to do it (no shop in my town will touch it except one … and I won't let him anymore); it's not too bad really. The mechanical shift cable is probably the trickiest part, and Ben's gotcha' on that one. After that, the Stringer is a cake-walk to get off the boat.
 

THE BEEF

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

If your having a overheating problem the swivel bearing seals might be leaking exhaust gasses in to the water pump.
There is a small hole on the transom side of the drive there is a grease fitting back in there, pump about 12 shots of OMC waterproof grease and see if your overheating stops.
Send me a PM and I'll give you a call to help you.
I had the same problem and I have a factory manual if you need information.
Beef
 

bill and doris

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

Well, no one around here seems interested so I may have to do it myself. My first question is: everyone seems to say removing the drive is the way to go, but is this just for ease of getting the pump out? If I take the 4 bolts out of the top and let the drive down and support it so the shift cable doesn't get stress, will removing the 4 bolts in the pump allow me to remove it?
 

superbenk

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

Well, no one around here seems interested so I may have to do it myself. My first question is: everyone seems to say removing the drive is the way to go, but is this just for ease of getting the pump out? If I take the 4 bolts out of the top and let the drive down and support it so the shift cable doesn't get stress, will removing the 4 bolts in the pump allow me to remove it?

You can get it out that way, but it won't be fun unless you have 3-4 arms. Sometimes the pump housing can be corroded in there and tough to get out without some gentle prying/persuasion. I'd still recommend taking the drive off completely to make your life easier. Good time to clean & re-lube the tilt pivot points too.
 

bill and doris

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

The problem I have is the boat is parked on an acreage. I can bring it home, but the HOA has restrictions on boats parked in driveways. Would look real bad since I'm the HOA president. There are 2 of us doing this so we have enough arms. If I can't accomplish it with it on the boat then we will pull it.
 

southkogs

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

...the HOA has restrictions on boats parked in driveways. Would look real bad since I'm the HOA president...
Ditto here (on the board anyway). I can get away with the boat sitting outside the garage for a couple days if need be, so I do when I have a small project. Half hour (if that) to yank the drive, shove her back in the garage and work on the drive on the work bench. A few days later, drag her out and put the drive back on. It really is easier on mine.
 

Scott Danforth

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Re: 1985 OMC 800 stringer

I would pull the shift cable, then remove the drive and bring the drive home to work on it
 
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