1985 johnson 150. Tach or rectifier?

Ffejrednats

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i have 2 twins on my Grady. One tach has power but no display response to running engine. Other tach also has power and intermittantly works. Running either engine i don’t read more tha 12.66 volts at either battery suggesting no charge which I assume is 2(?) faulty rectifiers??. These are internal water cooled rectifiers and a diode reading that should read flow one direction and not the other reads o in both scenarios. These are pricey buggers. Am I on right track and anthing else i can do to confirm these are my problem before replacing?

Thanks for helping a newbie!
 

oldboat1

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Cooling water not circulating or battery switches operated with engines running (guessing). Think you need to replace the rectifier/regulators.
 

Ffejrednats

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Thanks Oldboat1.....water squirting out of eninges at all the correct places so I think I have good circ. are you saying I should be turning off my battery switche(controls both batteries) when engines are running? the fact both are acting the same makes me think "someone" crossed charger leads on a battery when switch was "on" which I thik would send a reverse current to both engines and blow all diodes. sound likely? othwrise for both to be shot at the same time sound too coincidental.
 

oldboat1

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That's about it on the switches -- safest way is to make changes with engine(s) off. Passing through the "off" setting will blow the rectifier.
 

Ffejrednats

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Is there a test for the stators?wouldn’t it be wierd for 2 stators go bad at same time plus the fact that the engines run good?
 

Joe Reeves

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********************
(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

********************
 

Ffejrednats

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Update - installed a NEW rectifier and it did not impact the tach (must be bad tach). However, the good nes was I thought I was getting a charge on the battery. While on trip I started getting a strong fuel smell (enough for me to pull up floor looking for leaks -to no avail) then engine bogged down and quit. Restared in neutral and high neutral, but when put in gear died - then would not stay started unless high idle. Got boat home and found no spark on startboard bank of cylinders (J150TXcos). Replaced powerpack and still no spark on starbord side. Stator ohms are about 585 on both sides (brown/white) and (Brown/yellow) with no shorts. any ideas?
 

Ffejrednats

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I have confirmed that i have good spark on port bank with the black/yellow stop switch wire plugged in and key on as well as key off and unplugged. However, the starboard bank gets only an intermittant spark. I have charged and load tested batteries and they check out. New powerpack no help. Why intermittant/weak spark on starboard?
 
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