1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

RickyRegs

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1985 Mercury 50HP, I am trying to drop the lower unit to get at the impeller. I've removed what all the relevent nuts and bolts. Five total. One at the trim tab, one inside the trip tab cavity, a nut just forward of the tab, and a nut on each side. After some gentle aggression she just barely drops down 1/3" maybe - i am also not able to completely remove the 5/8" nuts from the bolts as it won't drop far enugh to let me do that, but there is about 1/2" of bolt showing below the bottom of the nut which is as far up as it will go.

Am I missing something?

I did not remove the prop as i read it wasn't necessary.
:confused:

this is what the manual says:

Check again to be sure the lower unit is in FORWARD gear.

Scribe a trim tab reference mark on the anti-cavitation plate. This mark will ensure the trim tab will be installed back at the same angle.

On many models retainers for the trim-tab zinc require a 12-point socket (often 7/16" in size) for removal.

Remove the plastic cap from the rear edge of the exhaust housing. Insert the proper size wrench into the hole and remove the trim tab adjusting bolt, and then the trim tab.

After removing the trim tab, remove the nut from the recess.

Remove the 5/8 in. nut from the bottom middle of the anti-cavitation plate.

Loosen the 5/8 in. nut located on each side of the exhaust housing. DO NOT attempt to remove these two nuts at this time.

Separate the lower unit from the exhaust housing as far as the nuts and studs will permit. Hold the lower units from falling and at the same time remove the two nuts.

Remove the lower unit from the intermediate housing.
 

RickyRegs

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Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

bump

because it wont come off!
 

carholme

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Sep 4, 2010
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Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

Ricky;

It is possibly frozen where the driveshaft inserts into the splines at the base of the powerhead.

Sounds like you have everything undone, so take a plastic or wooden wedge and using the structural portion of the lower gear casing, here between studs #5, if you can see it:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/275_170.cfm

and see if you can nudge it off. If it moves a little, you may have to lift it back up and down a few times to work the corrosion free.

Gerry
 

RickyRegs

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Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

BY "studs #5" you mean the two studs/bolts on either side of the lower unit/exhaust housing? (Described in the manual clip i posted as the 5/8" nut/bolt on either side of exhaust housing?)

Am i trying to slide the wedge between "stud 5" and the gear shift shaft/drive shaft?
 

carholme

Rear Admiral
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Sep 4, 2010
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4,845
Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

Ricky;

Yes anywhere in there will do. The point is to have the wedge against a solid piece of the top structure of the lower unit, the piece which has dropped about 1/3". Just trying to give you a solid point to pry against.

Gerry
 

RickyRegs

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Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

no dice.
time to shell out the cash and let a pro handle an "easy" impeller change i suppose.
 

merc850

Commander
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Jul 7, 2010
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2,038
Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

If you loosened the 2 nuts #5 and the LU dropped 1/3" you have to keep turning each nut more alternately to allow it to drop all the way
 

RickyRegs

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Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

If you loosened the 2 nuts #5 and the LU dropped 1/3" you have to keep turning each nut more alternately to allow it to drop all the way

The nuts are as far off as they go - essentially, the nuts are off the top of the bolts connected to the LU.

I was told by a friend of my parents who is an outboard mechanic that i should spray PB blaster in around the driveshaft and heat with a torch where the driveshaft enters the powerhead to try to loosen it; whilst simultaneously trying to tap in wedges.

Any other ideas out there??
 

Sunfish12

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 6, 2011
Messages
260
Re: 1985 50HP Mercury lower unit won't come off

I wouldn't use a torch up there. I would try more wedges/thicker wedges if possible. The only way I can see PB Blaster working its way into where the drive shaft seats is by leaving the wedges in and flipping the engine on its top(if possible) and spraying the driveshaft allowing the PB to run down and penetrate. Do this for a few days. I've seen PB work wonders.
 
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