1984 Johnson 40hp running wierd

pikelucius

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Let me just start by saying this motor is a terrible design, and I have done all kinds of work to this motor. In the past 2 years I have fully rebuilt the carbs twice, cleaned the carbs 3 times (not maintenance, they clog easy), replaced both coils, replaced the CDI, and plenty more. The time my CDI took a dump it ran very strange for about a week until it finally wouldn't even start. The problem I am having now has kept me off the water for almost 3 months now and I am going crazy. I am highly skilled in outboards and all things engines, however I am just a garage mechanic. As of now I have rebuilt my entire fuel system. I cleaned out my gas tank thinking it had water in it, and totally sealed the tank with RTV and found an old pressure cap so it will never allow water in. I have a new fuel line from tank to motor an even installed a fuel water separator. I replaced every single fuel line on the engine. I rebuild the fuel pump. I fully rebuilt the carburetors and got them absolutely spotless. Whatever engineer decided to put the main jet in the bottom of the bowl so it can clog with anything must have been high as a kite. Not only that, you need as special screwdriver to take it out. I made absolutely sure the floats are in spec. Its parallel when closed and fully extended is 3/4" from the carb body to front edge of the float. I made all new gaskets for the carb to reed cage, carb to air box, and air box cover. The reeds looked fine. The flywheel key is fine. Timing was never touched, but I did make sure to sync the carbs. New plugs and old plugs, no change. Compression is 152 psi in both cylinders exactly. Coils seem ok, both have the same resistance. Plug wires seem ok. CDI was replaced last year. I am pulling my hair out here.

The problem started about 4 months ago. One day it was running strange, but I figured it was the hot weather, as my motor runs a little rich in the high temps. It runs best when its about 40-50 degrees out. I never bothered with smaller jets, as I don't like summer fishing anyway. Around that time I broke my pull rope as this was a pull start only​ tiller motor. I bought a starter, and converted it to electric start. I'm handy with electronics, and have lots of wire, solenoids, and switches on hand. Electric start works amazing. It worked fine for almost a month but always seemed to blubber at idle, I still figured this was normal considering the 90+ temps. Eventually it got to the point of hard starting, and running lean at full throttle as indicated by the plugs. I cleaned the carbs good, but found no clogs. When I got it back together one carb bowl leaked, but I tried it anyway. This time It wouldn't even rev out. I figured it was a stuck float, and since it was leaking, time for a carb kit and full rebuild again. I got done with the rebuild, and its back to the original problem. It idles very rough and often one cylinder completely cuts out, but it will rev out fine. At this point the fuel system is completely out of the question, its all brand new as of today, and the motor still runs the same as it did a month ago. Compression is great, and the same it was 2 years ago. This brings me to ignition. I'll take any idea anyone has. I already checked the flywheel key, plugs, wires, and the coils seem ok. Maybe someone has a better test as the coils are kind of interconnected. I hate to think its the CDI, but I've never had one drag out like this. Its always been a quick death for a CDI. I was thinking to check timing, but I've never had to on an outboard before, and I'm not sure how to. I don't see why my automotive timing light wouldn't work.
 

racerone

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Well, for one thing they have had the high speed jet in the bottom of the bowl for about 60 years on many models / makes of motors.----Obviously it is an aceptable and good working design.----Does spark on your motor jump a gap of 1/4" or more.---And what is the model # of your motor.
 

pikelucius

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Well, for one thing they have had the high speed jet in the bottom of the bowl for about 60 years on many models / makes of motors.----Obviously it is an aceptable and good working design.----Does spark on your motor jump a gap of 1/4" or more.---And what is the model # of your motor.

I've had half a dozen outboards, and worked on hundreds of carbureted motors. This is the only one that has had the main jet in the bottom of the bowl. I've seen plenty where it kind of sucked from the bottom of the bowl, but on this motor the main jet is the low spot of the bowl, where everything settles.

Model number of the motor is J40RCRM​

I don't hav​e a spark tester, but the spark at the sparkplug is bright and blue.
 
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racerone

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Yes that is how outboard carburetors have been built .----High speed jet in the bottom of the bowl.----Have been for some 60 years.----Nothing wrong with the concept !!
 

pikelucius

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Look, I'm frustrated to no end with this motor, I just want to go fishing somewhere other than the local pier. The carb is clean now. Any ideas on checking the timing of the motor? Judging by the flywheel its supposed to be retarded 4 degrees at idle, am I correct?
 

pikelucius

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Please re-read my first post. I have checked the flywheel key, it was the second thing I checked.

I went out and put the timing light on the motor. I didn't fully warm up the motor, but just to check and I found a problem. The top cylinder fired about 2 degrees after TDC, about where it should. The bottom cylinder, however, was about 180 degrees off. How it managed to get like this, I have no idea. I don't see how I could have done anything, and the ignition system pretty fool proof. Its just Apparently I'm just the fool of fools. With two coils and two cylinders, I couldn't have got the wires in the wrong order. Its just one plug from the coils to the CDI, and another from the CDI to the plate assembly. Maybe I should pull the flywheel and clean the contacts?
 

oldboat1

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Did I read that you sealed the gas tank? Tank needs a working vent for the system to operate -- need to be sure it's venting.
 

racerone

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There are no contacts to clean under the flywheel !!!------And never use RTV around fuel systems
 
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pikelucius

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The tank is venting. Its an old metal 6 gallon one. I just sealed up the fuel connection plate, fuel level, and replaced the cap with one of those old kinds with a screw top that actually seals. I can open the cap with no change.

In my haste, I forgot to consider that the second cylinder is supposed to fire 180 degrees from the first. Now that I feel really stupid, I might just call it a day. Still, I have fuel, I have compression, and I have ignition. I think my next step will be to pull the flywheel and clean the contacts, and also take a good look at the crank seal.
 
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oldboat1

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Zen and the art of outboard maintenance. Maybe covered, but coils might be reversed. Blue stripe to top coil. Haven't dealt with an electric start conversion on a model like that, so inclined to explore that a little. Is that a completely separate starting circuit? Thinking any shared circuitry might be affecting ignition. Winging it here....
 

pikelucius

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There are no contacts to clean under the flywheel.

I appreciate your comments, however, there are contacts. A charging coil, and probably a magnet in the flywheel, both can become corroded, and the charging coil can even be adjusted.

I'll go out and see which coil is on top. They are kind of a pair, so you can't really mess them up. Also, the coils have been on there long before the problem started.

As for the electric start conversion, it is kind of curious. I converted it about may of this year, and started having problems late june-early july. That is the only thing I have done other than put a new water impeller in this year before problems started.

It is a completely separate starting system. I ran a ground from the battery right to the engine block. The positive is right from the battery, through a solenoid, to the starter. ​It doesn't affect the engine, it simply turns the starter. I have no charging system for the battery.

I went back out and thought about the basics. I have a very clean carburetor with plenty of fuel, plenty of compression, and very bright blue spark, yet it won't run right. It used to start second pull cold, first pull hot, and it always popped right off with the starter. Now it takes a second or two even with the motor hot. I think I'm going to hit up an old mechanic friend of mine tomorrow and pick his brain.
 

racerone

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I am not there to do any inspection / testing.--Perhaps it is as simple as a plug wire shorting to the cowling.-----How does it run with the cowling off ?-On the old factory metal tanks there are 2 small pins.-When you plug in the hose one pin Is a valve to let fuel out.-One pin is a valve to let air in.
 
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pikelucius

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It is the same without the cowling, and I have ran it at dark to look for sparks. I am going to try some spray around the crank seals to check for leaks, otherwise I am completely out of ideas.
 

racerone

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In post # 1 you say you are highly skilled in outboards.-----What / how did you check wires on this motor.----Have you looked at the pins / sockets in the rubber connecters ?
 

oldboat1

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No rectifier, so If you can start and run, should be able to disconnect battery when running without harm. Potential source of shorting would be eliminated. Suggest disconnecting kill switch as well. Ignition coils could indeed be cross wired (Try switching plug wires). Charge coil and/or sensor could fail, and the magnet could be an issue, however unlikely. I had one fail this summer on a smaller '84 (or should say found a magnet had failed at some point -- PO had running issues on one cylinder). On my motor, took flywheel replacement (dead magnet) and charge and sensor coil replacements to restore.
 

pikelucius

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The plug wires, I checked by first checking for spark, check. Then I checked for shorting by running it at dark, no sparks. I tried to switch wires, but the wires are too short, the only way it can be is top coil for top cylinder and bottom coil for bottom cylinder. I already tried disconnecting the kill switch.

I either hit the holy grail or am in for a world of hurt, because I just fired up the motor and it ran great. As good as I have ever heard it run. If I didn't have something going on, I would take it to the lake right now to confirm. I have no idea how in the world this happened, fingers crossed it stays reliable at least the rest of the year. The flaky nature of this motor is why I'm not too keen on it. Its an over simplified design prone to weird problems. One day I'll have saved enough for that nice mercury optimax fuel injected 2 stroke.

I'll report back tomorrow how the motor does on the lake.
 

oldboat1

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success, anyway. Possible bad plug connection in boot (spring connector can be corroded or misaligned). Pulling and replacing may have fixed it, but would pull plug wires again and scrape out the connectors a bit with a Phillips screwdriver, or similar (also aligns them correctly if that was an issue). On coil wiring.....not the physical location of the coils, top to bottom (although that can sometimes get confused too in reassembly), but wiring from CD unit -- blue to to top coil, top cylinder; green to bottom coil. But if she is running well now, can presumably rule that issue out.

btw -- similarly, could be a dicey connection of spring connector to wire.
 
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