1982 90 hp Johnson - remove the shaft linkage to drop lower unit?

[ib18]

is there a pin or something that link my shaft to the shift control that I need to remove before I can drop my lower unit to replace impeller?

 

[racerone]

Yes there is a pin that needs to be removed.

 

[Chinewalker]

Under the bottom carb there is a clevis type casting on the end of the shift arm. There is a bolt in that casting, running horizontally. That bolt has a thread-less end that runs through the top of the shift rod and it needs to be removed. A long 1/4" socket extension with a stiff u-joint or flex socket on the end will aid in its removal. I wrap some electrical tape around my 1/4-inch u-join adapter to keep it positioned easier. The bolt itself will either have a 3/8 or 7/16 head on it, depending on whether its original or a replacement. Some were even slotted for a long screwdriver. It will be the one running side-to-side, NOT the one running fore and aft.

 

[Franzel311]

Put some grease in the socket to it'll help hold the bolt from falling out, it can be a bear to find if u drop it

 

[glust]

I have the 140 HP 1982 model. My shift shaft is a pointed slotted screw. It is pointed on one end so that it can find the hole easier. I usually put the screw on a magnetized pickup tool to get it started. I then went and bought a 24" slotted screwdriver to turn it the rest of the way in. Be careful that you do not drop that sucker or its a full day of hunting, cussing, reaching, cussing, grabbing, cussing with the magnetized tool to pick it back up and out. Moving the shift handle on your helm while you are trying to get it sometimes helps to line things up better. "Neutral" might not be the best place to bring the shaft and the level together again.

 

[ib18]

I see the cotter pin that locks the gear arm to the shaft drive. don't see the screw rod, probably on the other side of the motor

 

[ib18]

ok, I see the slotted screw further in than the gear change link arm that I need to remove before I can trim up the motor and remove the lower unit. I don't think I should be messing around with the cotter pin in my video. will continue Friday.

 

[glust]

Looking at the back of the boat the screw is on the starboard side of the motor. It is tucked in behind some vacuum hoses. Have someone move the throtte selector at the helm so you can see what you are aiming for. A really powerful flashlight makes all the difference. I did not have to remove any cotter pin to drop my lower unit. And in future disassembly, keep a bolt in the lower until the shift shaft is free. You don't want the whole shebang a bang hanging by the shift shaft. That measurement is extremely critical to proper smooth shifting and gear engagement. You don't want to bend anything in that assembly. Good luck

 

[ib18]

thanks for the tips. I will look from the back of the boat again tomorrow. Today, I finally decided to do my youtube channel art background design with tons of pictures to show case my 300+ youtube videos. getting messy and out of control. so , time to organize them better for my youtube audience.
yes, I don't want my lower unit drop to the floor after disconnecting the shift linkage. I still got all lower unit bolts on and will wait until I disconnect the shaft linkage first.

 

[ib18]

I removed shift arm plate and carb exhaust plate, so I can see better. I am still trying to disconnect the linkage for my Johnson 90 hp and it turns out to be a big pain in the rear. I don't have enough room to use my regular slotted screw driver for the slotted screw in the picture and video, so I need to buy a flex shaft screw driver. Do I just need to unscrew the slotted screw circled in red before I drop my lower unit? I believe so, please comment. The shift shaft is boxed in rectangular in the pic pointing down to the lower unit.

 

[ib18]

here is a better look of the shaft linkage in reverse, neutral and forward position. Shaft is the shortest for RESEVE of 3 positions. Longest in F position.

 

[ib18]

No Title

A success! I was able to remove the slotted screw to disengage the lower unit shaft from the shift arm by using a long 12" screw bit holder and bike/snowboard bit driver along with a sears screw pickup tool with light. This slotted screw with washer is hidden so deep and tough to get it out.

 

[ib18]

Finally, I disengaged the shaft linkage to remove my lower unit for impeller change. So moving on to drop my lower unit to replace water impeller for my Johnson 90 hp outboard.

 

[64osby]

ib - it would be really nice to see all of your threads in one thread. It would be the progression of rebuilding your motor. Instead you have about 15 or more threads that are scattered all over iboats.

I have a 90 and one thread would have been great reference. JMO.

Keep up the good work.

 

[ib18]

yes, still a newbie at iboats. will try to keep everything in 1 threads going forward. This playlist shows how I struggle through the project with your First class help. iboatser - You ROCK!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIW-...i9DX6_3y0qSfn-

 

[racerone]

Some videos posted on repair work are just top notch and some videos are like the Saturday morning cartoons !!

 

[ib18]

Some videos posted on repair work are just top notch and some videos are like the Saturday morning cartoons !!

Thanks for the compliment and good laugh. Took me more time to film than did the real work but it helps me remember what I did later when I have to redo.