1981 Johnson 50hp Problems

[Coldtrain_1]

I am considering purchasing a boat with this motor, but I want to make sure that nothing is wrong with it before I buy it. I started it today for the first time while it was backed in water. Started great and sounded good. Here is where the interesting parts begin.

1. I had the cowl off so that I could watch everything. The first thing that I noticed was that water was running inside of cowl at the base of the motor. Is this just a seal somewhere that has gone out, or is this a sign of something major?

2. This motor has remote steering. The throttle cable needs replacing (owner has one on the way). The shift cable looks good, but when I try to shift into reverse, it just grinds. There were a couple of times that I was actually able to get it into reverse, but it would pop right back out. Could this be a cable issue. I tried to adjust the cable all of the way out(only 1/8" adjustment left), but it didn't seem to really help.

Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[mfkadz]

Water should not leak there. From the link below pick your year and HP. The water tube attaching to the head is documented in the exhaust housing section. You would have to remove the foot and the exhaust housing to get at the gasket. It could also be a cracked tube.

My guess is the shift linkage needs adjusting. Or maybe the idle is to high.

http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=kgnro6eghgd51n4o8mfovlj5l6&catalog_id=0&siteid=1

Make sure to take the boat for a spin. It can sound good and not perform. Check the spark coil packs for leakage or cracking. This could show a near future need for new ones.

After what I have been going through on my 55hp I would walk away right now. That leak will be a big piece of work for someone to fix. Unless they are willing to come down a bunch so you can take it to a shop to fix. But not knowing exactly whats up it could be $$.

mike

 

[Bosunsmate]

i agree with most of above
It could be the powerhead to base plate gasket thats gone. I have a similar motor and to repair it you need to lift off the powerhead. Its a very easy job if its not a saltwater motor.
The bolts that hold the powerhead on become corroded very quickly in salty conditions and are very difficult to remove.
The gaskets only a few dollars, but it must get fixed

Also check compression

 

[mfkadz]

Interesting. I have not separated the head and exhaust sections yet. I figured the base plate was bolted to from under. And yes. There is a gasket on both side of that plate. One to the head and the other to the exhaust side.

I can't tell you which one actually seals the tube.

mike

 

[Bosunsmate]

ive got the 60hp 1982 which is basically the exact same set up as the 50 and 55. Except i get a trim and tilt:joyous:
ive had to replace that gasket. You have to remove those lower metal covers that are under the lower plastic cowl. You do that by accessing the bolts from above inside the cowling. One is in a awful position below and rear of the starter port side.
There are also some bolts that join these lower metal covers together on the outside at the front of the motor, they are easily seen.
Once you get these covers off you can then access all the powerhead bolts.
Shift screw under carb must be pulled out as well before lifting powerhead and fuel lines etc of course.
To get to the tube you have to get into the adaptor plate which is between leg and powerhead.
That area was too fraught for me to get into it, the bushings for the swivel etc are all there. Maybe a leaky tube could be fixed without moving the adaptor plate, its being two years since i did my gasket change.
I checked my tube was ok by dropping the LU, plugging the bottom of the tube and filling the tube with water, the level of water didnt drop

 

[Bosunsmate]

No Title

 

[Bosunsmate]

i painted it black by mistake. Is standard white underneath. Painted flywheel black then blue for some silly reason too, ended up with paintflakes around engine bay

 

[Bosunsmate]

By the way make sure that the water outlet is moved to the top of the engine, as you can see i have done that, otherwise airbubbles sit at the top of the powerhead, its a massive fault on these motors and they are at real danger of running hot until thats done.

You can see the outlet is now under the lifting eye behind the flywheel.It use to be on the bottom of the exhaust jacket on the port side, real bad engineering putting it there. Its a great motor now, runs at ideal temperature, very reliable

 

[Coldtrain_1]

Ok. Well I took it back out after reading a few of the responses. I removed the control cable from the shift lever. When the motor is off, I can shift it into reverse and spin the prop backwards and the flywheel turns. If i spin the prop forward, it kicks the shifter back into neutral. So I take it back to the water and started it. I idled it as low as it would go without dying and tried to put it in reverse. It was still grinding. Once I was finally able to get it in reverse, I would have to press hard on the lever or it would jump back out when I gave it gas. Does this sound like a shift rod issue or does is sound like a more serious issue in the lower unit? I am really not wanting to put a lot of time in this motor if its going to cost me alot to fix it(if I decide to buy it). However if everything seems like it is an easy fix, I am willing to do the work myself and take the price of the parts off of the price the is wanting for the boat.

 

[bonz_d]

To me it sounds as though the clutch dog is junk. That is a typical issue with these outboards. I now have 4 of them of varying years. 2 have replaced lowers on them and one is still missing it's lower. A good working used lower will most likely cost around $300.00 unless you can get lucky. The 4th one I have I picked up as a parts motor for $90.00 just because that lower was a good working one.

 

[Bosunsmate]

yep i agree, worn gears/clutchdog.
if its a bad adjustment then its only one way that wont work
id drop the LU and have a look inside, then decide