1980 something Evinrude or Johnson complete rebuild

Happy times

Cadet
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Jan 2, 2016
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Okay so the title is about right. I bought a blown 1985 Johnson 50hp, then picked up two additional blocks just to get one that I was able to have machined ( 1981,1982,1983,1984 or 1985 block, not sure). Took it to a marine machine shop and they bored it out and decked it, they also ordered all the parts needed for a complete rebuild, so they are the correct parts. The motor did not have the VRO when I picked it up. I have the motor almost complete except hooking up the fuel lines. Can anyone tell me what fuel pump I can use and how to hook up the fuel lines from the gas tank to the cabs including the fuel pump. The carbs each look like they have a normal size fuel line fitting and a really small fuel line fitting. I realize I will be mixing fuel myself and am good with that.

Thanks

Scott
 

gm280

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:welcome: Happy Times to iboat.

Seems you have thing moving along okay, but maybe you could post some pictures of your engine rebuild. That way we can see what you're working on. The usual fuel pump for that 1985 engine is a vacuum operated setup part number 0395713. If you have that fuel pump that came with the engine, you can buy a fuel pump repair kit part number 0395867. Post some pictures. :thumb:
 

juno pierrat

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fuel pump should be #
0438556, I'd forget the vro and 50/1 mix, out of the pump the line goes to a tee, one fuel line goes to the primer solenoid on the other side of motor( goes between the carbs), two small fuel lines return from the primer to pump side of motor and go to small fuel fittings, the other line off the tee goes to another tee,and to larger fittings on the carbs. sorry i can't tell you the sizes but the parts diagrams on the two web sites i use don't list sizes. configure and space the tees as you see fit, tee #0326031 and #0313537
also see
http://www.iboats.com/mall/image/view/1/5/266269_10_1.gif
my explanation isn't exactly right but look at parts diagrams and you will get the idea
 

juno pierrat

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sorry gm280, didn't see your post and not saying your numbers are wrong but got my pump numbers from Iboats, maybe there both right
 

gm280

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sorry gm280, didn't see your post and not saying your numbers are wrong but got my pump numbers from Iboats, maybe there both right

juno, I checked a 1985 50HP Johnson OB and the parts breakdown didn't show any VRO setup but the typical vacuum Johnson fuel pump that so many use. If his engine is a VRO then my pump and rebuild kits numbers certainly won't work.
 

Happy times

Cadet
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carb 1.jpg

so here is a picture of one of the carbs. It looks like there are two fuel inlets, the one on the top is smaller, I marked it with an arrow.
 

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  • carb 1.jpg
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Happy times

Cadet
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The pump that was on the motor has the following numbers, 343462 on the back casting and on the front on a sticker is 438557 13-D-1J.

The other question is, where does the crankcase water line go to from the side cover, and what type of line should I use.

Thanks for all your help,

Scott
 
Last edited:

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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These carburetors do not have choke flappers on them.---Fuel is injected into the motor via that fitting with the arrow pointing at it.----Find the primer valve with the red lever.--The proper place for the fuel pump is on the side of the # 1 cylinder.---3 holes , 2 of them for screws and one is the pulse port.
 

juno pierrat

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fuel lines.jpg fuel line setup for 87" 48spl should be same for you, black arrow is from pump, white arrow and white tie wrap goes to primer solenoid, i have pic of primer on other side of motor but you can't see hose connections, 3 hoses, large one from white arrow and two small returning to the connections in your pic, note; the tees are two different sizes
 

Happy times

Cadet
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Jan 2, 2016
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so I see that the primer has two hoses coming off it, does it matter what carb either hose goes to?
 

Happy times

Cadet
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Bosunsmate, is the old telltale the fitting coming out the side of the block, if so did you plug that. Also, I looked at you link on installing the telltale and it showed great pictures for 3 and 4 cylinder but I only saw one picture of what appeared to be a complete 2 cylinder. If I can figure out where to drill and tap, do I have to take the head off again.
 

juno pierrat

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i agree about one pic for the 2 cylinder blocks, in a perfect world the head should be off, for me i used a wet/dry vac right by the drill and tap to get the fillings up. Note; the block was kind of soft metal or my drill was very sharp, it didn't take much effort to drill the block. heres my end result.(lifting eye removed), i did't try to remove old connection on side, tight space, didn't want to break it, just plugged old line.
 
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