1980 E100 motor issues

mvanek21

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
22
I've got a 1980 E100TLCSC, I recently swapped the stator from an '86 E110 onto it as the initial one had some cracks showing and the 110 looked to be in great condition. I also put the water cooled regulated rectifier on since my previous regulator had gone bad and the rectifier alone sends too many volts to my starter battery. Since doing this, my tach has stopped working so well, often stopping around 3400 and showing about 1100 with any further throttle while the motor is clearly running faster than 3400. I disconnected the regulated rectifier after reading that this could have an effect on the tach but no difference.

I then swapped the powerpacks and coils from the 110 to my 100 believing that the stator matching with it's previous coils/powerpacks would resolve the issue. I had to cut some wires and use quick connect spade wire connectors as the plugs had different layouts from my timing base to the 110 powerpacks. But now my motor seems to have a knock to it at low RPM's and at full throttle it is not reaching full power. I am suspecting that one of these power packs or coils are faulty and I'm dropping a cylinder. There was nothing wrong with the engine operation before and the tach worked as it should.

My questions are;
- if I put all my previous parts (stator, coils, powerpacks) back on, what type of wire connectors should i use to guarantee proper connection.
- my idle speed was roughly 1000 RPM before, how do i go about properly adjusting the timing to bring it down to 600-700 as stated in the manual.
- the throttle lever spring connecting my throttle and spark advance lever has some play in it, it does not seem to retard the spark lever fully when my throttle is returned to idle position, would this be causing the higher idle?
- the wires coming off the timing base may seem a bit tight and not allowing proper full movement of the timing base, could this be causing the hesitation?

This motor has historically been great for me, it was my mistake on changing parts up when all i was initially planning on doing was repairing my charging system. I'm planning on getting the CDI 193-3408 unit as its a regulated rectifier and should have been the first and only thing i changed out initially.
 

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Last edited:

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,663
The knocking and lack of power is a concern.----Some will slam me for suggesting a compression test.-----Do yourself a favor and post the actual values you get from a compression test.
 

mvanek21

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
22
The knocking and lack of power is a concern.----Some will slam me for suggesting a compression test.-----Do yourself a favor and post the actual values you get from a compression test.
compression was 118,118,120,117, did all of this before i had ever touched ignition system. its been running great with these compression readings for as long as i can remember, i take the readings at the start of every season and havent had any variation
 

mvanek21

Cadet
Joined
Apr 12, 2024
Messages
22
Up to you to try and determine this " knocking " on your motor.
i was hoping someone had some advice, seems more timing related from my limited knowledge but dont understand why a different coil/powerpack would be causing this
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,663
Timing on these motors does not go out of adjustment as a rule.------I will step aside on this.
 

ct1762@gmail.com

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
783
the timer base doesn't sit all the way back on these to the stator post. simply hit it with a light with the cam roller in the center of the throttle cam mark. what does it say? should be 4-6 or so BTDC. these you need to be paying attention to any timing adjustments and understand how WOT timing can easily be manipulated when not knowing what adjustments to make. simply buy a used OEM manual on ebay for $25 and follow the synch n link procedure to a T.
 
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