1976 6HP Johnson short shaft tiller issues

Royce Brown

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I purchased a 1976 6HP Johnson outboard which was in very good condition, brand new fuel pump, new fuel lines, carb rebuilt with proper kit & seals, clean as a whistle and when the gentlemen who sold it to me started it in a barrel it ran fantastic, started on the 2nd pull after sitting in his motor repair garage for approx 6 months. I ran it both neutral and in gear and it ran very well, no bogging down or any signs of poor performance. Restarted it multiple times after changing the lower unit oil with him (he wanted to show me exactly how it's done since I'm not real experienced in old outboards). Motor restarted on 1/2 a pull after changing lower unit oil.

I carefully laid the motor on its side (careful not to snap off the gear shift handle) when transporting it home for a 1.5 hour drive. I attach motor to boat, prime gas pump bulb until stiff and it refuses to start. I tested the plugs and they seemed to be sparking but only when the tiller throttle handle was in what seemed to be an exact certain position (which is an entire different issue, appears to be a bushing missing at the bottom of the horizontal throttle gear which causes some slippage between the 2 gears but I can work with that).

Eventually after removing the old plugs (J6C's which looked pretty brownish, not sure how used plugs should look) they were a bit wet so I assumed I flooded the cylinders from pulling the cord too many times so I removed both plugs and disconnected gas line and pulled the cord a few times trying to clear out any petrol from the system as there was a small amount of fuel leaking from the carb choke hole. When I pulled the cord with no plugs/fuel it made a completely different sound like it really wanted to turn over.

I cleaned the plugs with some ether and blew them dry with an air compressor, reinstall and with a small amount of playing with the choke amount and start position (I believe the correct start position is the when the roller is just touching the piece the opens up carb to increase throttle) I was able to start and run it for an hour, very nice performance. I could restart it after letting it rest for 30-45 minutes while I was drift fishing. Everything was great.

The next morning when I attempt to start it simply refuses to turn over. On the first or 2nd pull it sounded like it nearly turned over but could never get it to start. I repeated the above steps (remove plugs, clean, dry etc) and eventually was able to start motor and again it ran great for a couple hours. The next morning almost starts on a few early pulls but then just refuses.

I purchased some new J6C plugs along with some J4C's having read that both can work, and then I read that J8C's should be used. I've gapped the plugs from .20-.25 and no real difference other than I was able to eventually start and run on the J4C's, but still refused to start he next morning.

What am I missing here? What am I doing wrong? Are J8C's worth trying? Once the motor starts it runs great, just cannot get it to start consistently. Running 50:1 fresh gas, I know 100% fuel is reaching the carb but I'm at a loss at this point. Any advise/help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Royce
 

hardwater fisherman

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Are you using the choke? Make sure it is closing fully and staying closed. Try giving it a little more throttle. Also i think the plugs should be gaped at .030.
 

Royce Brown

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Are you using the choke? Make sure it is closing fully and staying closed. Try giving it a little more throttle. Also i think the plugs should be gaped at .030.


Yes I have always been fully engaging the choke when attempting to start cold. I spoke to the guy I bought the motor from and he thinks perhaps I'm over-pumping the ball and flooding too much fuel into the carb, also suggested tapping on the carb lightly as the float could be stuck. His suggestion was to not pump the ball at all when first trying to start.
 

F_R

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Give it a bit more throttle. Till the roller actually opens the carb a bit. That fast/start/slow dial plate is never right, and it sounds like yours is even more off.

Put those J8c plugs in your lawn mower or something. Plug heat range has nothing to do with starting, anyway. Those numbers only indicate how hot the plug tip gets while it is running.
 

Royce Brown

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Give it a bit more throttle. Till the roller actually opens the carb a bit. That fast/start/slow dial plate is never right, and it sounds like yours is even more off.

Put those J8c plugs in your lawn mower or something. Plug heat range has nothing to do with starting, anyway. Those numbers only indicate how hot the plug tip gets while it is running.


Okay I will stick with the J6C plugs and leave the gapped at default (I believe they are .030 off the shelf.
 

racerone

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Does the spark jump an actual gap of 5/16" or more , yes or no ?----Compression test needs to be done.
 

Royce Brown

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Does the spark jump an actual gap of 5/16" or more , yes or no ?----Compression test needs to be done.

I have not tested how far the spark jumps, I don't know how to do that. I was going to buy a compression tester just out of curiosity how much compression I'm getting.

The only way I know to test for spark is to unscrew the plug and ground while pulling the cord looking for spark.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Glue 2 pieces of wire on a piece of cardboard with a 5/16" gap.----Even speaker wire will do for testing this.----Stick one end in the plug boot and the other end grounded to the block.----Plugs on the block simply is not a good test !
 

hardwater fisherman

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For checking spark you need to make the spark jump an open air gap. Something like this one in the photo or make your own.
 

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lindy46

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Get a $10 spark tester at any auto parts store - set it at about 5/16" and see if you have a snappy blue-white spark.
 

hardwater fisherman

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I agree with F_R about advancing the throttle a little more. I have a 1970 6hp that I have not had the time to put on a boat yet. But while starting in a barrel just a small amount of throttle is enough to make it start right up. It may start and rev a little high so just keep one hand on the throttle to back it off once started.
 

Royce Brown

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UPDATE: So it does in fact appear that I was over priming the gas line and causing the plugs to get wet, when I pull cord with no priming it will turn over on first pull, just needs a bit of adjustment between throttle, choke and priming to get it running but my right arm will be ripped in no time!

The frustrating part is the throttle gears are slipping (missing bushing somewhere?) so I constantly "lose" the throttle start position so i always have to remove motor cover to start. Not a huge deal as it runs very well and on the bright side I never have to worry about my brother in law taking my boat out and breaking it because I'm the only person who can get this thing to start.
 

Crosbyman

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Nov 5, 2006
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"pump" flooding the carb means the float and inlet needle need servicing…

carb valves are like toilet bowl tanks valves … they shut off when full when the float rises to the determined height

if they overfill the shut-off valve is not performing properly or the float is not parallel to the carb body when held upside down

or the float is fuel logged and to heavy to rise up

great motor btw
 
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