1975 6hp johnson question

[Gradywhite3535]

Hi all, I have a 1975 johnson 6hp that I can't seem to get started. I had it running two years ago but had a cooling issue with the water tube. I finally got it back to gather and it won't start. I decided to first take the carb part to clean it. Should I take out the welch plug? I've never took one out before but if you guys think there may be crud/ dirt down in there then I'll take it out? Is it worth taking it out? Also is it worth it to take out those little lead shots? How do you put them back in? I'll try to load pics to show you guys what I mean. Thanks a lot

 

[ondarvr]

Did you check for spark?

 

[oldboat1]

Leave the lead plugs in place. I usually take off the domed expansion plug rather than finding later there was a blockage in the idle passages.

 

[F_R]

It's your call on the expansion plug. Since gas doesn't lay in that area and gum up, they usually are ok. But dirt is a different matter. I usually don't remove it unless there is an idle problem. It can always be removed later without removing the carb.

Leave the lead shots alone.

Your problem (if any) probably is in the high speed orifice plug where gas lays and turns to gum in storage. But don't do anything until you have confirmed spark, etc.

 

[racerone]

If ignition coils are the original they will need to be replaced.

 

[Gradywhite3535]

Does anyone have a link to a DIY points,coils and condenser test/replace? Any help would be greatly appricated thank you

 

[racerone]

Do a ---google search------------universal magneto-----That will have it all and more on this simple ignition system.

 

[Crosbyman]

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_6hp.htm

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm

​book of oldies with lots of still usable info for your ignition issue
http://boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manuals/1922-1964johnson.html#/0

 

[oldboat1]

Doug Penn's website has some good info on coil testing (think it is cross referenced on Leeroy's Ramblings).

 

[Gradywhite3535]

Thanks all for the responses, I checked the spark with a inline spark tester and both cylinders had spark. Would that mean that most likely the coils, condenser and points are ok to at least start the motor? Also the pull starter seems harder then usual to pull, any ideas on what I could do/fix to make it easier to pull. Thanks guys for the help

 

[oldboat1]

Before testing, you want to be sure the cooling system is operating properly (new impeller, if the pump ran dry at any point). Before you get out beyond rowing distance, you also want to be sure the coils won't quit on you. They are currently working if you have spark, but if the casings are cracked they are on their last legs.

Assuming you have checked out the starter assembly, turn the flywheel clockwise by hand to make sure it's moving freely. A coil could be binding, or there could be internal problems. Or maybe the driveshaft-to-crankcase seal assembly under the powerhead is binding (maybe incomplete or assembled incorrectly). A compression check would be a good idea, particularly if the motor overheated when you had that cooling issue.

 

[racerone]

Does spark jump a gap of 5/16" or more in air, yes or no ?----Did you clean the high speed jet that is in the bottom of the carburetor bowl ?

 

[Gradywhite3535]

No Title

Hi all, I have a 1975 johnson 6hp that I just cleaned the carbs on. I forgot to take a pic of the float and now I don't remember which way the float goes. Is the float in the pic correct or does it need to be flipped around? The other side has curved indents. Also does the float need to be flush with the casting and be pulled down a bit? I did spray and compresed air to the high speed jt and will ceck the spark at 5/16 today. in the pic with just the float bowl there was a little metal wire thing that was behind the drain screw that blew out. should it be there and what does it do. thank you

 

[racerone]

Looks like the little wire clip that goes on the float needle was in there.-It is missing on the float.----Have you removed the high speed jet found inside where the clip was.-Cleened wee orifice where fuel goes up to the idle passage ?---Where is the nozzle gasket ?--Float appears to be too big in the last picture.

 

[Gradywhite3535]

Does the carb in the pics above have to be flipped around to the side that has indents and does the carb need to be pushed down to be flush with the casting? Thank you

 

[oldboat1]

Here is a diagram for a '90 model 9.9 (shows the float configuration fairly clearly): http://www.iboats.com/Carburetor/dm/cart_id.145751267--session_id.970537191--view_id.1537038 . I can't tell a lot from your pics (pretty dark), and not sure if your float is correct. Guessing, the float might be upside down.

I just eyeball the float alignment, setting it level. Check to be sure you have the right kit and float for your motor. (Don't forget your nozzle gasket. Here's a diagram for your carb: http://www.iboats.com/Carburetor/dm/cart_id.145751267--session_id.380360364--view_id.1532305)

 

[AlTn]

there's a small tab on the float arm < brass piece the hinge pin goes through > and this tab should be pointing upward towards the the carb body when the carb is upright...is the top piece of the starter < not the piece with the teeth that rides up and engages the ring gear > tight and the rod that serves as a rope guide is it vertical and not cocked?