1973 Evinrude 85393M 85hp Outboard Motor part purchasing help

Hulkrage

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Sep 14, 2017
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I need to buy a new stator and the website Im looking at has 3 different choices. The next best thing to original part is a [h=1]0581225 - Stator Assembly,6 amp .[/h] This part is Evinrude Johnson OEM for 250 . My main concern between this part and others is on this parts title it says 6 amp.The other parts don't specify the amps on it . I am a new boat owner that has limited knowledge. My batteries on the boat get drained way faster then it should . Saw one problem could be the stator - if you see its oozing and melted on the ends. The other parts listed: [h=1]173-1225 - Stator, 581225 for 375 aftermarket[/h] [h=1]0763772 - Stator Assembly for 475 OEM[/h]
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
NOTE: Disconnect one terminal of the battery when testing or replacing the stator or rectifier.

The stator oozing, dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead indicates it is failing and will result in faulty ignition... yes, replace it. 581225 is the proper part number.

However, the fault of batteries not charging usually lies with a faulty rectifier (Part #583408). Test it as follows.

(Small Rectifier Description & Location)
(J. Reeves)

On most 2,3,4,6 cylinder engines, the small rectifier is located on the starboard (right) side of the engine just in front of the engines electrical wiring strip. There are a few older V4 engines that have the wiring strip on the rear portion of the engine and the rectifier would be located just under that terminal strip. The smaller horsepower engines usually have the rectifier located on the starboard side of the powerhead close to the carburetor area.

The rectifier appears to be a round object approximately one inch (1") in diameter and also about one inch (1") high. The base of it is sort of triangular in appearance and is attached to the engine with two (2) screws/bolts..... usually one screw/bolt is larger than the other. The rectifier, depending on which one your engine uses, will have either:

One Red wire, one Yellow wire, and one Yellow/Gray wire, or One Red wire, and two Yellow wires.

Note that either of the above rectifiers could have a fourth wire which would be Yellow/Blue
********************
(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.
 

F_R

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Jul 7, 2006
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28,226
You will see a lot more complaints of battery overcharging with the 6A stator than you will ever see of undercharging. In other words, 6A is plenty. You only need more if you are using an unusual amount of accessories. OR--if you are running a trolling motor off the main starting battery, forget it. No way will the charging system keep up with that.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
I ran a similar motor for a number of years with a two-bank system, using an isolator -- had no issues. If you aren't getting a charge, it would be good to test the rectifier as suggested -- whether or not you are planning to replace the stator.
 

Hulkrage

Recruit
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
5
Thank you for all the replies and advice !!

Joe Reeves, Is it safe to say I can buy the part 0581225 -stator assembly 6 amp for 250.
or
Part 581225 for 375
Just asking because the part numbers are about the same .
I have minimum accessories connected to the Battery just lights, motor and bilge pump.Trolling motor has it's own battery.
I am definitely getting a new rectifier since the prices don't burn a hole in my wallet .
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
0581225 and 581225 should be the same OEM numbers. They had to add the up-front zero to all their numbers because their computer ran out of room for all the numbers. I believe your $375 is made by a different mfr, right?
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Hulkrage.... The part numbers are identical. Save all the $$$ you can. I assume both part quotes are "New!"? DO NOT buy a used one for any amount unless you get a guaranteed iron clad warranty with return privileges.
 

Hulkrage

Recruit
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
5
Yes the one for 375 is after market CDI Electronics.
cheaper part is Evinrude Johnson OMC.
Thank you for all the help ! Saving money where I can is always good.
 
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