1972 Evinrude 40 outboard no spark?

[bcontento]

I have a 1972 40 horsepower Evinrude (model 40253E) was on a little skiff that I just bought. Got the wiring reconnected to the ignition switch up at the console, new battery, fresh gas. Cranks over hard with the key but won't fire. I did a quick screwdriver gap jump to see if I could get any spark at the plugs I don't see any.

I've ripped apart car engines before but I'm totally new to outboards. Any directions on where to start and what to check? I assume there's some kind of magneto, coil, condenser and points etc somewhere in line.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Unplug the remote to the engine back at the motor, jump the solenoid and see if she starts or farts or something.

Report back.

 

[Nordin]

Ignition coils, condensers and points are under the flywheel.
If no spark with the remote unhooked pull the flywheel and check.
The ignition coils at these OMC engines have tendens to dry out in the insulation. You would see it if they are rotten when you have pull the flywheel.
Clean the points and set the gap to 020.

 

[bcontento]

Unplug the remote to the engine back at the motor, jump the solenoid and see if she starts or farts or something.

Report back.

Is the remote the large round plug coupler? I unplugged that and then tried to jump the solenoid from the "I" post to the starter... Is that not the right way?

 

[racerone]

Just stop.-----Remove the flywheel with a puller.-----Use a puller with 3 bolts --1/4-20NC.----Post a picture of what you see there.-----Clean and set points.----Replace condensers.-----Then test for REAL spark.----Spark on a good magneto must jump a gap of more than 1/4" on both leads.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

However you want to jump it....many ways.

Easiest way? wires off of a battery, bolt on the hot to the starter side of the solenoid and touch the ground to a nice clean ground on the motor

Hope she starts or check for spark. A spark test jumper too is cheap.

 

[bcontento]

Just stop.-----Remove the flywheel with a puller.-----Use a puller with 3 bolts --1/4-20NC.----Post a picture of what you see there.-----Clean and set points.----Replace condensers.-----Then test for REAL spark.----Spark on a good magneto must jump a gap of more than 1/4" on both leads.

Got the flywheel off. Can't find my feeler gauge so I'm going to the store.

 

[bcontento]

Filed and set the points. Whoever the previous owner was they put in new plugs and used NGK B7S and they are spotless. I'm not sure if they've ever been fired. Are those the right plugs for this?

Picking up new condensers this afternoon before putting the flywheel back on to test it. Anything else I should test while I have it open? Is there a way to test the coils?

 

[racerone]

Post a picture of the coils?-----Is there a part # on the coils ?----What color are the coils ?

 

[bcontento]

Post a picture of the coils?-----Is there a part # on the coils ?----What color are the coils ?

 

[racerone]

Those coils are not original.----They are new or near new.----No need to worry about them.

 

[racerone]

There are 2 screws missing in the picture.----One empty hole in each coil.-----Maybe the ring under the magneto plate is out of position.---A novice gave up when screws did not go in or work properly.

 

[tphoyt]

I see a lot of corrosion on the point and wires.
Could use a good clean up.

 

[bcontento]

Those coils are not original.----They are new or near new.----No need to worry about them.

Yeah I have a feeling that somebody started working on it and then didn't complete it. The plugs look like they've never been fired. Everything here looks brand new. The coils, the condensers.

I'm going to test the condensers and if they're okay put everything back together now that the points are cleaned up and reset and put a spark plug tester in line.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

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This product is the quickest way to test for no-start conditions. Ignition spark tester with spark gap Can intuitively convenient to understand the operation of the ignition coil. Avoid fire, the ignition coil burned out and so on.

www.ebay.com

 

[bcontento]

Well unfortunately life got in the way of me continuing to work on the boat until now. Jumping back in with some updates and appreciate any guidance!

I put new correct condensers in but still have no spark. I'm clearly no expert so don't laugh when I ask but what are these two items? These are two items that seem to have wiring connections that may or may not be associated with ignition. The wires seem to chase up under the flywheel. (Doesn't look like my photos are uploading)

The first is a small black rectangle with two electrical blades sticking out of it directly under the flywheel

The second is on the side of the block. It looks similar to a fuel pump and has a hose connector coming out of it but it also has electrical connections on the end a pair of which run up into the ignition area under the flywheel. There's definitely a fuel pump on the other side.

 

[racerone]

One with 2 blades sticking out should have 1 ( white ? ) wire.----It is the safety switch to prevent cranking with too much throttle open.----Other is a vacuum switch to prevent motor " run a way " under certain conditions.----Cuts out spark to one cylinder.---Open the big black plug on motor.----Use rope to pull the flywheel over.----Test for spark.

 

[bcontento]

One with 2 blades sticking out should have 1 ( white ? ) wire.----It is the safety switch to prevent cranking with too much throttle open.----Other is a vacuum switch to prevent motor " run a way " under certain conditions.----Cuts out spark to one cylinder.---Open the big black plug on motor.----Use rope to pull the flywheel over.----Test for spark.

First thank you for saying the big black plug so that the layman would understand! Lol

I put the roof assembly back on and disconnected the plug but still do not seem to have spark on pull. It's very hard to pull and it's daylight so my inline spark plug tester is a little difficult to see but pretty sure I'm getting nothing.

The one wire coming off of what you say is the kill switch appears to only go to ground. The other blade is not connected to anything.

 

[racerone]

Repeat-----There is only one wire going to that switch !---And that switch grounds internally.-----It is NOT the kill switch.----It prevents cranking if throttle is open too far. !----Remove sparkplugs and use an open air spark tester to test for spark.----Those inline spark testers do not belong in my workshop !

 

[TN-25]

Inline spark testers could show electrical continuity but nothing more, while an open air spark tester will show whether the ignition will fire under great resistance, in other words real operating conditions.