1972 40hp Chrysler Outboard - Not going into gear in forward but goes backwards

[MrFishy]

1972 40hp Chrysler Outboard - Not going into gear in forward but goes into gear in reverse. When I put it in gear in forward it just revvese up but doesn't go into gear. As soon as I reverse it will go back with no issue. Took it out of the water with the motor off put it in forward and tried to spin the prop it wouldn't move in any direction same when I put it in reverse. Changed the lower unit oil today had no water or metal chips in it. What are the next steps I should take?

It has a lever that I pull out for neutral. When I push it in it doesnt go into gear in forward and just revves up but will easily go in reveres.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Are you certain it is a 40? During those years I remember Chrysler making a 35 and 45 but no 40. However, stranger things have happened. Are you certain it is a Chrysler? Has the cover been repainted to comply with maximum engine horsepower ratings of the hull? Please post a couple of photos for confirmation.

At any rate, you probably have a mis-adjustment of the shift rod linkage and adjustment will depend upon the actual engine itself.

 

[MrFishy]

No Title

Here are photos of the setup.

 

[MrFishy]

Would the engine revve up high if the cables are misadjusted?
:faint2:

 

[Nordin]

That is a 45Hp Chrysler and the year is 1978 (looking at the decals at the hood).

Disconnect the shift cable at the lever at starside of the engine. Try to shift by hand moving the lever downwards when you at the same time turn the prop cw.
You should feel and hear when the clutch engage the forward gear.
By moving the lever upwards you should feel and hear when the clutch engage the revers gear.

If you can feel this both forward and revers you maybe have to check and adjust the shiftrod.

You adjust the rod at the coupling under the legcovers.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Changed my mind upon re-reading your post. Many times when the engine will not go into either gear while running but will lock up in both directions on the trailer with the engine off it is a problem either with the shift rod being too tight or control cables binding.

With both cables removed at the engine manually move the shift lever. There should be no binding and it should not take excessive force to move.

So, as Nordin said, check the shifting with the shift cable disconnected. Check both cables for very sharp bends or possible kinks. With both cables connected check that movement is smooth with no binding AND check that the lower unit goes into gear before the throttle starts to open

That engine should have two quick-connect fittings at the engine end. The larger quick-connect is spring loaded and should be on the throttle cable. When properly adjusted the center spring loaded section will be pulled out about 1/4 inch in neutral. This allows the lower unit to completely shift before the throttle opens.

It is also possible that the forward gear drive dogs are worn to the point that they will not lock-up with the engine running. Unfortunately they will lock up tightly enough with the engine stopped so you can not tell.

 

[MrFishy]

With the motor off I shifted the control in forward and turned the prop clockwise and the flywheel turns as well. Then put it in neutral and there was no force turning the prop clockwise or counter clockwise. Shifted the control to reverse and turned the prop counterclockwise which also turned the flywheel.



Can some one please in detail guide me to how to adjust the shift rod?

The cables I bought are brand new and shouldnt have any kinks in them. Going to adjust them on the motor and see if releasing a bit of tension would set the prop to turn in forward instead of just reving up the engine.

 

[Nordin]

To adjust the shiftrod you have to disconnect the shiftcable from the lever.

Set the shiftlever in neutral, The lever has a hook pointing to the towershaft and it should be centered over the flat surface at the towershaft.
The purpose of that surface is to limit the throttlemovment in coldstart.
Make a mark with a pencil at the lever and another mark at the towershaft pointing to each other.
Start to move the lever downwards (forward gear) slowly and at the sametime turn/rock the prop back and forth.
When you feel and hear the clutch starting to engage the forward gear you stop moving the lever and mark the position of it.

Now you move the lever slowly upwards (revers gear) and as before turn the prop back and forth.
When you feel and hear the clutch starting to engage the revers gear you stop moving the lever and mark the position.

If the shiftrod is correct adjusted the distance between the marks when the clutch starts to engage the gear (forward and revers) be equal relative to the neutral mark.

If not, you adjust the rod at the coupling that is located behind the middlegcovers.
Loose the locknut (the small one) and adjust with the large (long) one.
One is righthand threaded and the other lefthanded and the thread pitch is large so start to adjust about 1/4-1/2 turn and the check.

Hope you understand

 

[tommarvin]

Is this a new boat? Did this problem happen suddenly? What's different?

Like Frank said if the existing cables move freely, you don't need new cables, adjust the existing cable first before you open the new cables, the shift rod can't suddenly go out of adjustment can it? I think you said it goes in forward and reverse gear, Did something break at the motor where the cables connect and it's not going in forward,you said the shifter works in forward and reverse?

 

[wickware]

If it was shifting before you dropped the lower unit it should be shifting if you start the coupling on both rods to center the process of F-N-R. As mentioned, if you are adding new cables you might have a number of adjustments to make (control Box, Engine and Etc).

On my 70 1970 35HP Chrysler, to avoid centering the shift rod coupling if it is shifting fine. I remove the cotter pin while a longer bolt holds the Lower Unit to drop and replace the impeller.

 

[MrFishy]

shifting smoothly now. shift rod had a slight bend in it. Straightened it out and luckly found a good lower unit with new gears as a back up. I really like these older Chrysler motors.
They seem very simple and easy to understand. Thank you all for your help. I appreciate it.

 

[wickware]

My 1970 35 HP Chrysler has served me well and I hope to get the health and energy to run it a few more years. 2013 was my last summer?s outing but I ran the engine in a barrel the next summer. I need to ck my records to see if I ran it bone dry last. Or one years treated gas with Stabilizer that has worked well ?Year To Year?. I?ll need to Move Or Use It Soon. I only see 300.00 (150 ea) value in the well maintained motor and trailer.

We Had A Good Run!!!

 

[MrFishy]

Thinking about replacing the water impeller and lower unit tomorrow. Do I just take out the 4 bolts and it drops down or is there more to it than that?

 

[Nordin]

Yes, you have to disconnect the shiftrod. Depending up on the style of your gearhouse it can have a cottor pin connection.
When you have taken out the four bolts and the LU will drop about 1 inch. If it has the cottor pin connection you will see it.

If not, you have to disconnect at the adjustment connection. Behind the legcovers you have it.
There are six screws to remove the covers.

The adjustment connection have one locknut and one adjustment nut. You unlock the locknut (the small one) just about half a turn.
This is important because it will be the reference when you connect it again. If not, you will have problem with the forward/reverse adjustment.

The big (long nut) has a large thread pitch and it is left threaded.

 

[wickware]

The above link shows the cotter or coupler method of removing.

I purchased the 1970 35 HP Chrysler in 1984 and feel the Impeller was new or close. I d/n replace it until 2009 and it was still pumping water good and was flexible with no dry rot cracks. The boat/engine was used summers only 6-12 gallons of gas at the most running trotlines and fishing. Some trips were so short that I made a good hard run 4-5 miles. Runs to blowout the engine from all the trolling or 3 years of sitting vs starting yearly in a barrel due to drought conditions. Hard runs and Stabill made a difference on engine performance. Hole Shots and 32 MPH, LOL!

I felt I was living on the edge from reading how often I should change my impeller. I checked flow and temp horn per trip and installed a Tell Tale. Most of all, we never traveled a distance from home or the bank with just one boat.

*** Any pics of the bent rod or what rod and where??

 

[MrFishy]

No Title

With a little bit of struggle I was able to get the lower unit off. Had to take off the shift cable to make it drop down enough to be able to remove the cotter pin holding the shift cable to the lower unit. Didnt have the right tool to open the water pump but after making a quick trip to pepboys got the right tool opened the water pump but it seemed to be in good condition. Ended up replacing it anyway. What are your point of views on greasing the housing for the water pump. Also got a used lower unit off ebay which looks worse than the one I currently have but lets see how the gears are on this one. When I took off the side plates on the leg there was a knob connecting the shift rod. How do you set that? And any tips on how to line up the shift rod to put the cotter pin back in. Having trouble with it. Spent 4 hours working on this and still havent finished. Wanted to thank you guys for helping me with this. I really enjoy working on motors and all the tips were very helpful.

 

[MrFishy]

To adjust the shiftrod you have to disconnect the shiftcable from the lever.

Set the shiftlever in neutral, The lever has a hook pointing to the towershaft and it should be centered over the flat surface at the towershaft.
The purpose of that surface is to limit the throttlemovment in coldstart.
Make a mark with a pencil at the lever and another mark at the towershaft pointing to each other.
Start to move the lever downwards (forward gear) slowly and at the sametime turn/rock the prop back and forth.
When you feel and hear the clutch starting to engage the forward gear you stop moving the lever and mark the position of it.

Now you move the lever slowly upwards (revers gear) and as before turn the prop back and forth.
When you feel and hear the clutch starting to engage the revers gear you stop moving the lever and mark the position.

If the shiftrod is correct adjusted the distance between the marks when the clutch starts to engage the gear (forward and revers) be equal relative to the neutral mark.

If not, you adjust the rod at the coupling that is located behind the middlegcovers.
Loose the locknut (the small one) and adjust with the large (long) one.
One is righthand threaded and the other lefthanded and the thread pitch is large so start to adjust about 1/4-1/2 turn and the check.

Hope you understand

Now I totally understand this. Before not so much. So by adjusting the coupling I will be setting the neutral position on the motor? And one last question the motor was overheating due to a bag covering the flow of water. When I took it off it seemed fine but started to smoke up before getting to the ramp. My first impression was water pump but after checking that what do I do next?

 

[Nordin]

Check if there is some blockage in the water tube, water intake etc.
Also check so the water tube has lined up in to the waterpump housing. It can mismatch and you do not notice it because the tube can "wiggle" when you assemble the LU and it will still fit to the midleg.

 

[MrFishy]

Took apart the lower unit and found some plastic in the tube. Took it all out and its spitting out water like a champ!