1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

[lakelover]

I started tinkering with this motor last year, replaced the cyl. head and gasket, and thermostat. It was suggested that I clean the carb & install a kit. I just got a kit in the mail, and hopefully it will improve the performance a bit. It runs, but I think it can run better.<br /><br />My question is this: When I looked at the kit, I was surprised by the number of parts included. I have an OMC manual and have been able to identify a lot of them. Do I need to replace all the parts that are included in the kit, or just certain ones?<br /><br />The main problem with the motor now is that the low speed adjustment has to be set to lean in order to get max rpm's at WOT, not a good thing, I've read here.<br /><br />Will appreciate any suggestions!

 

[McGR]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Typically the low speed adjustment should have little influence at WOT. It sounds to me like your problem lies in the high speed circuit. The high speed jet is hiding behind the screw (bolt?) that is fastened to the tubular protrusion coming out of the carb housing. You'll want to make sure this is good and clean, along with the rest of the carb. Also, sometimes carb kits have extra parts for different variations of a particular carb. Try to use as many parts a possible. Particularly, don't skip the core plug(s) you'll want to get in behind the plug(s) and get any gunk out that may be lurking back there.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

If you have to adjust the idle mix to lean in order to get it to run happy at WOT, you must be running too rich on the high speed circuit. Focus in on a mis-adjusted float, leaking inlet valve, leaking past the high-speed oriface, wrong high-speed oriface, leaking gasket (bowl into high speed circuit). It's a good idea to do a complete rebuild like McGR suggests.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Thanks, it looked overwhelming when I first saw it, but I'll see what I can do. It's a good learning project, not much to lose.

 

[WADERS1]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

I,ve used a 1/8 drill bit w/stop, drill through the center of the core plug('s), then remove them with a pick.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

I got the motor out of storage today (since last Sept.) and started it up in preparation of installing the carb kit. It started after 4 or 5 pulls, very smoky. After running it for a while and warming it up, I did a compression test- 65 lb. on both cylinders.<br /><br />One thing I noticed was water squirting out from under the housing, both sides, just above the water line in my test tank. Is this normal, or serious if it's not normal?<br /><br />

<br /><br />From a previous post on this motor, I know that I have problems with the upper gasket that seals out the exhaust from under the cowling. After shutting it down, I blew the smoke out of the area above the water, then removed the cowling and it was full of smoke. I squirted some water down from the top and it poured out the same area that the water came out in the picture.<br /><br />The serial number for this motor is J3093223. Can someone confirm the year by this? Or point me to where that can be checked?<br /><br />I know that's a lot of questions. I've got my manuals and I guess the next thing is to get my hands dirty.<br /><br />Thanks.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

In regards to that lower rubber cowling seal, does the motor run better with the hood off?

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Originally posted by R.Johnson:<br /> In regards to that lower rubber cowling seal, does the motor run better with the hood off?

It runs quite a bit better with the cowling off.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

J3091236 1969<br />J3093223 this is yours<br />J3102662 1969<br />J3107794 1969<br /><br />I would say it's safe to say it's a '69.<br /><br />Too bad about the rubber 'doughnut' gasket - I understand you have to take the midsecion apart to fix it.<br />Decarbing the engine may help the compression/starting.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Thanks, Paul. I decarbed it last fall, had this thread going at that time:<br /><br /> carbon<br /><br />What I guess I'm really wondering is, other than the fun of tinkering with it, will the return in improved performance be worth the time invested in it. Don't know how much improvement I can really expect, it dawned on me today that it is 36 years old. Seems like just yesterday that I was a teenager and it was a brand new toy to use that summer!

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Another problem on this motor is the rubber mount's. Can you hold the tiller handle and shove the engine from one side to the other in it's mounts? If you can, along with the leaking ( donut), or lower cowling seal, this little engine can be a lot of work. They ran great when every thing was correct, but so do the other OMC small engines, with a lot less work

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Well, with the exhaust donut fixed it'll work exactly like it does with the cover off. The engine is just choking on it's own exhaust gasses.<br /><br />What I can't figure out is why the compression test comes out so low with bores looking so good. The only thing I can think of is that somehow the rings are still stuck.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1969 Johnson 9.5 carb question

Originally posted by Paul Moir:<br /> Well, with the exhaust donut fixed it'll work exactly like it does with the cover off. The engine is just choking on it's own exhaust gasses.<br /><br />What I can't figure out is why the compression test comes out so low with bores looking so good. The only thing I can think of is that somehow the rings are still stuck.

Thanks to you and everyone else who has replied, I appreciate the patience with all my newbie questions!<br /><br />I'm going to get started on all this over the weekend. I was doing a lot of reading today in the shop manual, and I was wondering the same thing, if the rings were stuck. Anyway, my plan is to start with a good cleaning and rebuild of the carb, then go from there, following the manual procedure. I hope it's less smoky after the rebuild, it was pretty unbelievable even before I shot it with a little Deep Creep. Then it was like a war zone.<br /><br />On the donut, it looks to me that in order to get to that, I have to remove the power head, and lower gear case, is that correct? The manual listed a number of other possibilities to check out, so I'll look things over as I'm working on it. <br /><br />EDIT: Later on...got the carb kit in, and was actually surprised at how clean the inside was when I got into it. Still cleaned everything up with carb cleaner, blew it out and got it back together. It idles quite a bit better now, will go slower without stalling. The reeds were a little misaligned, but not much, don't know if that made a difference. At any rate, I lined them up to the marks. Final adjustment will be in a couple weeks when I get it to the water. That dang exhaust under the cowl is the main problem now I think.

 

[kaci]

I have a 1969 evinrude 9.5 it only starts on chock and it runs for about 2 seconds any information will help thanks

 

[HighTrim]

kaci this thread is long dead. Start yourself a new thread and we will be glad to help.