1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

[robbor2]

Well we took the frind new/old boat out for a fishing trip(i started it in a barrel and then 1 trip out to the lake) and this was the third time and it would not start at all. Every other time it only took 3 or so pulls to start. It was dead all day. Before this trip I adjusted the shift lever as it did not want to stay or go into forward and was even in rev sometimes when actually in Neutral. I oblonged the screw holdfor the shifter to get is reasonbly engauging forward. We had spark(seemed a little weak) and fuel , it was a bad day. We are planning on yanking the carb and checking it for varnish and crud and we are trying to locate the tool for setting the points. fuel pump seems pretty new. Any ideas?
Can I convert to some sort of pointless ign and not bother with the point setting tool?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

here's some things to help you,

http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=28;gtid=1210765

in the following link, read: outboard won't start, general engine checks, carb needle adjustments, and debarb. these have been selected as exceptionally good information.

http://www.iboats.com/bbboard/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewforum;fid=36

 

[F_R]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

This is one case where reading the book doesn't help. You don't need that special tool to set the points. Just set them so the gap is .020" at their widest opening. That is plenty good enough. The tool makes it easier and quicker for people who do it all the time.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

we use to use a match book cover. they ran good too.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

There are two screws' to deal with when adjusting the shift lever. One to set the detent, the other to lock the lever to the shaft. Did you find them both?

 

[58 Johnson]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

Points are easy. When I do them, I take fine emery cloth and fold it over so it's effectively two-sided. With the crankshaft turned so the points are closed, run the emery cloth back and forth through the closed points to file them off. This works much better than a file. When the emery cloth pulls smoothly through the points, then remove it and replace with a good piece of paper or cardboard and then rub it back and forth, moving to a new piece as necessary until the paper comes out clean. Do that for both sets.

Now, use a wire type gauge for setting the points at .020. The wire type is more accurate because they are the same thickness all around. Flat feeler gauges are often dirtier and you can also inadvertently apply pressure to them and set the points wider than they should be.

You say the spark is weak. I have a suggestion. Take some old spark plugs (or new if you like) that you know work well and break off the ground electrode. Place those test plugs in the spark plug caps and rest them on ground. Pull the engine over with the regular plugs removed (to make it easier to pull). When you pull the engine over you should both SEE a definite big fat spark and HEAR a definite fat snap (of the spark) for both cylinders on every revolution of the engine. If you practice enough at this you can can really good at it. (Small engine mechanics was a former career of mine). If you have these big fat sparks on the test plug on every revolution (and not intermittent) you are almost sure to have good ignition for starting. The only time this doesn't work as a diagnostic is if there is high speed break down in the coil.

As for shifting... can be a tough one. I have a 1966 20 hp that is a pain at times. My biggest problems are (1) making sure that the engine is idling slowly enough, and (2) making sure the trailing finger with the 3 indents is greased well. If you look at the outside of the unit and under the power head, you will see a small pin that moves up and down on a little spring-loaded "wavy-shaped" finger when you sift gears. If that finger is dry, there are times when I cannot move the shift lever. It's not very modern or scientific but there is no choice but to blob a bunch of grease onto that mechanism.

Hope this helps.

 

[perkdp]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

Change condensers and plugs.
If this is a rope start 1969, there probably isn't any safety switch on the shift lever that would prevent it from starting.

 

[robbor2]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

wow, thanks for all the replies guys!!!
Like I said the moter ran a few times the week before when my friend bought it. The only major trouble I had was the shift rod is probably worn and 80% of the time when I put it in forward it barely goes in and will slip out. I did find both screws to adjust the lever but even when it was adjusted all the way back with the mount all the way forward(max adj) I was still getting some reverse engaugment when I spun the prop in "N". With lengthening the slot I was able to get full neutral in "N" and consistent engaugment in "F". The lower end leaks and we are waitning for a seal kit to come in today so I will check engaugment then when we drop the lower unit.. Id like to swap in new points and condensor and then we will check the carb also. I will read your above links, thanks very much appreciated, Rob

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1969 18hp wont start/shift lever???

i think when you get into the lower unit you're going to find the clutch dog, and maybe forward gear worn. the teeth should be square. while you have the lower off do the impeller also.