1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

[danstona]

I recently acquired this motor with a 14ft aluminum tub.. I replaced the plugs and fuel pump before going on my annual fishing venture up in the great north of Ontario. The motor seemed to run great in a barrel before we took it, but it constantly seems to have a miss or hiccup of some sort... I've also noticed then when set in N and starting the engine, cranking on the throttle to increase the RPM.. to either smoke off the carbon or warm up the engine.. when I go to far it kicks it into forward?? IS this correct? On my trip we used up a lot of fuel compared to other friends of ours using similar 9.9hp Johnsons etc.. We even had to row our way back to the dock once because we ran out of fuel in an afternoon. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. IF the weather ever cooperates I plan on checking a few things more in depth.. such as the points, carb, and compression.. but was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on the few questions I asked at the top. Kindest Regards Dan

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

The later model 9.9 and 15hp models are more fuel efficent engines. However.........

I suggest that you clean and rebuild/adjust that carburetor and check the diphragm in the fuel pump as follows. There is a stop to prevent applying too much throttle (rpm) in neutral, and why the engine would jump into forward gear is a mystery to me.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

(Fuel Pump Diaphragm Test)
(Two Hose Type Only)
(J. Reeves)

Note: This pertains only to the regular Two Hose type fuel pumps.

Leave the hoses attached to the fuel pump. Remove only the two screws that attach the fuel pump to the powerhead. Re-insert those two screws and install a nut to each of them so that the fuel pump is securely clamped together. With the fuel line attached to the engine, pump the primer bulb while observing the pressure/vacuum operating hole on the back side of the fuel pump. Should any fuel leak out that hole, the diaphragm is faulty.

If the diaphragm is faulty, the fuel pump will require rebuilding or replacing. Note that repair kits are not available for all fuel pumps, in which case replacing the pump would be necessary.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

There is an interlock between the throttle and shift. I am guessing it is messed up enough that it somehow is nudging the shifter into gear. Just a guess, never saw it happen though.

 

[danstona]

Re: 1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

I think I found why it kicks into gear. The stop that hits up against the shift linkage from the throttle arm is actually worn on an angle and when enough pressure is applied it forces the shifter downwards! As for what else I've come across while mucking around under the cover while having no patience lol... I found the armature to be wobbly on the crank. It seems that the bushing of the armature is very worn and causing this wobble.. which I believe to be a direct result of altering the points gap and possibly making the engine run rough? The fuel pump has been rebuilt/replaced recently... I'll have to see about what I can do for the throttle linkage with that stopper. Any advice on the armature bushing? It looks pressed in, can it be replaced, or do I need to buy a whole new armature? Also, the epoxy on the coils are all cracked.. overheating? Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)

If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.

The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make an indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.

You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.

Use a small amount of anti corrosive grease between the aluminum ring and the brass support plate and also on the brass bushing of the armature plate when all is well.

 

[danstona]

Re: 1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)

If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.

The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make an indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.

You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.

Use a small amount of anti corrosive grease between the aluminum ring and the brass support plate and also on the brass bushing of the armature plate when all is well.

Well from what I could tell it was the fitment of the armature over the gearcase hub that surrounds the upper bearing. I could be wrong.. but I purchased some parts and if those don't cure it then I will do the above mentioned trick and report back with how it runs. Is there anything else I should be checking over on this engine while I have it in the test barrel? Thanks.

 

[danstona]

Re: 1968 Evinrude 9.5hp Questions (9822E)

Well after installing a used armature from a '64 and finding one of the wires to be worn through on it causing one plug to not have spark.. We set the points and got it up and running with a new set of champion J6C plugs. Wow does it sound a lot better. I just hope the fuel consumption settles down compared to what it was! Thanks for the help everyone.