1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

[jai070404]

We have so far twisted and bent six (3 each time) bolts and six big washers. We have now moved on to higher grade bolts to pull off this flywheel. Despite every effort over the last three days still no luck. Are there any tricks to getting this flywheel off? Thanks.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

Are you using a harmonic balancer or similar device? If so, put as much pressure on screws as possible and then solidly tap the top of the main with a mallet. The motor should be suspended by it's bracket, not resting on the skeg. Re-tighten the screws after each stoke of the mallet.

 

[jai070404]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

Using a harmonic balancer. Motor is suspended by bracket. Worried about causing damage by using mallet on main bolt.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

No gaurantees, but I've never had any problems or heard of any, and I've done it a lot.<br /><br />If someone has a better way, they will surely jump on this PDQ.

 

[jimmbo]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

Gee, the flywheel on my dads 40hp used to come off on it's own, while the engine was running.

 

[Raybo]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

Jai,<br />Put a generous amount of liquid wrench on the shaft where you took the nut off. If possible, let it sit overnight. The flywheel will come off next morning easily.

 

[daveswaves]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

Just finished removing the flywheel on my 40 HP lark V, 1963 model. I removed all components around flywheel and heated the flywheel with a propane torch, Gently, you are not trying to melt the flywheel. Once cooled enough I put penetrating oil (any brand you have) around the shaft and tightened up the flywheel puller. You have to find a way to hold the flywheel to tighten up the puller bolt, you will not be able to tighten it enough to pull the wheel if you are trying to hold the flywheel with one hand and tighten the bolt with the other. Most manuals guide you to (not hit the puller with a hammer) Having said that....you are probably going to have to hit it. You should be striking a sharp blow (one) and then re tighten the puller main bolt, strike again. Remember, you are not trying to hit the flywheel off, the puller will pull it off, you are just trying to break the corrosion seal that is sticking the tapered flywheel to the tapered shaft. Good luck.

 

[russeller]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

i would go with what dave says i had the same probem and that is how i got mine off good luck

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

Be very careful if and when you hit the puller bolt with a hammer as all that force is transferred to the lower crankshaft ball bearings. Ecessive pounding will flatten or distort the balls and the race.

 

[stairliftoheaven]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

that flywheel aint gonna come off without hitting the crank. but not too hard!

 

[jai070404]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

The flywheel is held steady by a long piece of 1" box steel run through the engine lifting bracket to a perfect fit in the cogs. The socket wrench is 2 feet long then we run a 3 1/2 foot long box steel handle over it for extra pulling power. It is about as cold as it gets here this morning (44F). We cooked up the inner flywheel and got into it. Result- Three destroyed high strength bolts, four painful tricepts muscles, one strained groin(wide stance)one stuck flywheel. I am going to try and hire a hydraulic puller but my chances are slim.

 

[jai070404]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

POP - She's off. A hydraulic puller with a max of 30 tonne of pressure, takes two people to lift it into place. It worked, and just aswell because the coils are history. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[Pigeonroost Slim]

Re: 1968 Erude 40hp Lark - flywheel removal!

The biggest risk is not harming the shaft bearings, its bending the flywheel - at which point its not even much good for a paper weight. Seems to me that applying tons of force to the grade 8 bolts is a good 'nuff way to risk bending the wheel. The advice to soak it with penetrant is very good. The use of heat before soaking is OK if not too enthusiastic about it.

My way is an old shade tree way that will make experts wince, but I have never bent one yet. I soak the joint with penetrant a day ahead. I apply the amount of force I am comfortable with using the puller. With that pressure on, I rap the center bolt and if I can then tighten a bit more with same force I so and repeat. But, if the rap does not yield a result, I get my trusty 10" section of ash sledge hammer handle (a scrap section cut from a broken handle) and I place it squarely under the outer rim of the flywheel and while pushing up in it with my hand in the middle of the wood section, I rap the bottom of the wood with a 2# hammer (rap -- NOT strike). I go to the to the other side and repeat. Then try the puller bolt again and it will then pull the wheel, has never failed me and I've pulled lots of big ones on old equipment with great rust.

prs