1967 Starcraft 16' Newport V Inboard Outboard

wpchrist

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Jun 15, 2015
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I just started working on a 1967 Starcraft 16' Newport V Inboard Outboard.

I just installed the new battery and plan on checking the electronics and seeing if if will turn over. I will keep you posted
 

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wpchrist

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 15, 2015
Messages
42
Need Some Help With a 1967 Starcraft 16' Newport V Inboard Outboard

I am currently working on a 1967 Starcraft 16' Newport V Inboard Outboard (120 HP Mercruiser). It is a new acquisition so I am checking all the systems now. The key is currently lost (I swear it wasn't me) so I am a little limited in what I can do right now.

So far the vessel appears solid. It was obviously well taken care of. I think it lived it's whole life in Minnesota before moving here to South Carolina. All the fiberglass seems solid. No soft spots in the floor; transom is solid; stringers look good.

The interior is in good shape although the seats may need to be re-upholstered. The carpet is in good shape, and all the trim panels are there and in good shape as well.

The boat came without a battery so I bought a Walmart 695 MCA and installed it. By the way, I noticed a thread on this forum about where the battery placement was originally in these boats. . From this vessel, I think original placement was under the doghouse next to the engine. I have a small aluminum tray there about the right size for a battery. In this particular boat though it appears the owner relocated the battery to the port rear corner on the passenger compartment next to the transom. I plan on putting the battery back under the doghouse and installing a Perko switch as well.

I installed the battery and none of the electronics worked. No blower, bilge pump, or tilt/trim. I crawled under the dash to see if I could "hotwire" the ignition switch and at least turn the motor over, though I knew it would not run because, not having a key, the switch was still in the "off" position. Low and behold she turned over nicely! I was relieved that I got something electrical to work. Now that I knew power was getting from the battery to the dash I decided to work on the other electronics.

I reached up and turned on the blower, bilge pump, and nav lights. I heard no noises indicating the blower or bilge had come on but when I pulled the nav lights on the backside of the dash (where my head currently was) lit up nicely. Now I knew I had power to the instrument cluster so I searched around under the dash for possible causes of the other electrical issues. I found a small, five fuse panel screwed to the bottom of the dashboard. I reached up and started to pull out the fuses one at a time to check them. As soon as I touched the panel I heard something electronic come on at the stern. When I took my hand off of the panel the noise stopped. I figured i had a bad connection so I unscrewed the panel from the underside of the dash to take a closer look.

i pulled the fuses out and the fuse holder and the fuse ends themselves were a little corroded. I cleaned those up and turned on the switches one by one. The nav lights still came on (always glad when i don't screw one thing up trying to fix something else). The blower came on (progress!) but the bilge did not. I left the bilge switch on and shined my flashlight under the engine. I then noticed the bilge switch on this boat has a float switch...when I lifted the float the pump came on (yay!).

That only left two none functioning electronic components if you don't count the spot lights (that look OEM??). The cigarette lighter doesn't work (I don't smoke but will have to check the receptacle for power in case I want to plug in an accessory later), and...the real problem...no tilt/trim (booo!!).

I scratched my head over the non-functioning til/trim switch a little. I decided to look under the dash and confirm the fuse panel I had found did not have a wire from the tilt switch. It did not. However, there is what looks a little like a fuse holder next to the tilt switch (See photo). I gently tried the "push-and turn with a screwdriver" method that I use to open those types of fuse holders. The cylinder did not turn and I didn't want to twist any harder in case it isn't supposed to turn. It also appears a key might fit in the slot which would explain why it didn't want to turn (without a key).

There are four wires on the back of the "fuse block" (or whatever that circle-with-a-slot thing is). One of those wires runs to the center post on the back of the tilt switch. There are only three wires on the back of the tilt switch so I feel pretty certain that the wire from the circle-with-a-slot thing is the power wire coming into the tilt switch. I think the other two wires on the tilt switch should be the wires going to the up and down relays for the tilt.

Now the questions:

Does anyone know what that circle-with-a-slot is?
Does it take a key?
Does the ignition swtich need to be in the "On" position for the tilt to work (it seems like it shouldn't, but who knows)?
If I don't find the key can a locksmith make one or should I try to find a replacement ignition switch/key?

I find myself liking this boat more and more everyday. I am looking forward to tinkering with it and getting it on the water someday soon.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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:welcome: to the iboats forum,

So ahem, yeah we really need to see some photographic evidence of said boat. :happy:
 

jbcurt00

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WP:
I merged the 4 topics you started, about essentially the same start of your project.

Did you get an error message indicating that the topics didnt post?

Welcome to iboats, good luck w your project
 

jbcurt00

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It happens ^^^ thats why the newb Mods get an iboats issued mop bucket; )
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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13,787
If wired correctly yes the key has to be in the on position for the tilt switch to work. The cost of a 3 pole ignition switch is around 12 bucks and it comes with 2 keys. I never remove the key from my ignition and I've yet to have anyone drive the boat out of my driveway.

If you want to test it though no problem, trace out the power wire to the tilt switch and remove it from the ignition switch pole 'ign' to the 'bat' pole and it will then work like the other switches did.

Now for this old bugger, well it looks like some sort of keyed switch but I have no idea what it is, posting this pic in the mercruiser forum may have some better results. Some of those guys were around boats before wood was invented. :lol:


fetch
 
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wpchrist

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 15, 2015
Messages
42
Thanks for the feedback. I admit I was having some problems with the early postings so ended up with four that were essentially all the same thing, or subsets of the same thing.

I will get some photos of the boat and post them. I have a great spot in the shade of low hanging trees next to my house where I have the boat parked and covered. It keeps it out the the relentless South Carolina sun but doesn't promote the best photos. Apologies in advance if the photos aren't the greatest.

Watermann, I never remove the keys from the boat either, and have never had a problem. The key was removed by the couple that moved the vessel to South Carolina...paranoid i guess Ha Ha!

Photos and follow up to come soon....
 

jbcurt00

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Were the problems on your end or w the iboats server giving you an error message?

Is this a fiberglass Starcraft?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Were the problems on your end or w the iboats server giving you an error message?

Is this a fiberglass Starcraft?


Yeah she's a glass SC. From post above -

"So far the vessel appears solid. It was obviously well taken care of. I think it lived it's whole life in Minnesota before moving here to South Carolina. All the fiberglass seems solid. No soft spots in the floor; transom is solid; stringers look good."
 

wpchrist

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 15, 2015
Messages
42
Here are some photos for you guys. Let me know what you think. And for g0nef1sshn, evidence that it happened :laugh: .

You will see in one or two of the pictures the support system the previous owner built for the cover. I'm sure it did a great job of holding out the Minnesota snow. It is well thought out and well built and hopefully will help me keep the rain out (and leaves, which you can see in some photos). The boat came with the leaves. I am pretty sure the original owner kept it covered. However, The same people that lost the key said they left the boat uncovered in their yard for "a couple of days." I've since vacuumed the the leaves out, and I bought a cover the first day. ID Plate.jpg
Forward Port.jpg
Forward Stbd.jpg
Front.jpg
Rear.jpg
Outdrive.jpg
Interior Fwd.jpg
Dash 04.jpg
Dash 02.jpg
Dash 03.jpg
Dash 01.jpg
Interior Stern.jpg
Engine port view.jpg
Engine Stbd view.jpg
Stern Covered.jpg
 
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