1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

PastorMikH

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11
I have an 18 hp Evinrude that I have some questions on. I'm not sure if it is just me but it seems that the motor is a bit sluggish at topend. I've got the motor on a 16' aluminum V-hull with a front fishing deck. Engine starts fine - usually with 1 or 2 pulls of the rope, and runs fine at low end. Doesn't seem to miss at high end, but doesn't plane the boat out with just me in it either (granted I'm close to 300#s, but I'd think the motor could handle it). Sounds like I'm only getting about half the RPMs from it at high end - as compared to in a tank with the prop off. I've got a 9x10.5 prop on it and have tried a 9x9 - both deliever about the same all around performance. I've been in similar boats with 2 people (W/O the deck) with 15 hps that seem a lot faster. <br /><br />Put new plugs in and ran it once. The plugs are rather fouled like a rich mix in the carb. I have rebuilt the carb, there is only an idle set adjustment and the fixed jets for high end. I have not done anything to the points other than just clean them.<br /><br />Am I expecting too much or is there something I can try to get a little more top-end?<br /><br />Thanks.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

Mike... No offense intended but if the engine is a manual throttle engine whereas you must sit in the extreme back of the boat, the engine might be okay.... then again it might not. Just a factor to consider.<br /><br />The points should be set where a .020 feeler gauge will go thru but a .022 will not.<br /><br />If the armature plate which holds the points wobbles, the point setting will change as the armature plate revolves. Should this wobble exist, try the following.<br /><br />(Magneto Armature Plate)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /> <br />If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.<br /> <br />The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make an indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.<br /><br />You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.<br /><br />The sp[ark on that engine should jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! If it does not, find out why.<br /><br />The carburetor adjustment follows:<br /><br />(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /> <br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.<br /> <br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /> <br />Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.<br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.<br /><br />If none of the above helps, check the size of the propeller and if possible, drop to a lower pitch prop.
 

PastorMikH

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

Thanks Joe. I've left the throttle open and moved to the mid section of the boat and it doesn't make a lot of difference, the nose comes down a bit, but it is still just plowing water instead of planing.<br /><br />What is the difference between the Evinrude 18 and the Johnson 20 or the Evinrude 25s? Is it by chance just the carb? If so, could a guy just change out the carp on the 18 with one from a 20 johnson or 25 evinrude to get more power?<br /><br /><br />(Understand I'm not just power-hungry, I have a nice lake 15 miles from me but it's big enough and had enough big waves that I want to get the boat planing to get on top of the waves instead of plowing through them).
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

OMC made a 3 blade 7 pitch prop #388294 which would do more for your configuration. <br /><br />If you can't find one, Michigan wheel makes one also: web page
 

Chinewalker

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

The 18 and 20 hp 22-cubic inchers are essentially the same motors. Someone once told me the only difference was the reed stops on the 20 were opened up a hair more than the 18, but I've never confirmed this.<br /><br />The 25 hp 22-cubers are modestly different, using a different crankshaft, pistons and cylinder head.<br /><br />Are you sure you're running on both cylinders under load? Try running the motor with one plug wire removed and grounded to the block and note whether it runs differently or not at all.<br /><br />What is your compression reading? The motor might simply be old and tired.<br /><br />- Scott
 

PastorMikH

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

The compression checks out at about 100-110 on each cylinder. In the barrel both cylinders are firing, though that isn't the same load as in the water pushing the boat. I'm getting good blue spark hitting the block from the loose plug wire <br /><br /><br />The motor my be giving all it has. Perhaps I need to look at a bigger motor for the boat then.
 

PastorMikH

Cadet
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

Don't know if this will make a difference in the water or not, but I did a little tweaking today after reading Chinewalker's info about the reed stops. I took the carb off, then the reed plate, bent the reeds just a tad, put them on a flat surface to make sure they were all the same, thenover each other and did a little final bending to make them the same (probably opened them roughly an 1/8 inch more total. Put everything back together and stuck the trash can behind the boat with the motor in it. Now, I don't know if opening up the reeds made a difference in the motor breathing or jostling the carb dislodged some dirt, but the thing threw water everywhere when I engaged the forward gear and reved it. Threw so much water that I had to shut the motor down and wait for the trach can to fill back up to run the gas out of the carbs. It never threw this much water this fast out of the same can so I am a bit anxious now to take it to water and see what it does pushing the boat. It even sounded like it was hitting quite a bit more RPMs as well. Maybe tommorow we'll try it out on the water.
 

ob15

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 4, 2004
Messages
514
Re: 1967 18 HP Evinrude sluggish top end

To know if the motor is running at its potential, I would install a tach to see what rpm,s you're getting. Tht way you will know for sure.
 
Top