1964 sportwin 9.5, now oil leaking around bolt through manifold, cause poor idle?

[georgeJeff]

Once again I come before the alter of ignorance. I have had a few post here about this "cheap" motor I bought to get some quality fishing time with my daughter before I become stupid and uncool. If you are a parent you know what I am talking about.

Finally got the silly thing running, and has a just fair idle. But just not right, stumbles, sputters, tries to die at idle, not a lean spit. S/S needle does respond, but does not seem real sensitive to adjustment, runs and idles best at 1.5 to 1.75 turns, will die at 1 or less turns. Seems pretty good at WOT in the barrel. New coils, points, condensers, plugs, plug wires, water pump, carb boiled out, very clean with a new carb kit. NOT a carb problem ( I don't think).

Newly noticed problem: The manifold (I think that is what it is called) on the drivers side of the motor (right side, starter side), the third bolt down has a steady stream of oil running down the side of the motor. My neighbor said that if this gasket it bad it could cause water to get on top of the piston and cause poor running. I removed the plugs and with a small light looked into the abyss at the pistons. The top piston is black, just like you would expect, the bottom is black on one side, but shinny on the other. Am i correct in thinking that cold water hitting the top of a hot piston would effectively decarb the top of the piston? Started the motor, and at a healthy rpm, pulled each plug wire, the top wire caused a pronounced drop in rpm, the bottom wire pulled, not so much of a drop in rpm. My neighbors comment, "the bottom plug is not firing hard enough". By the way, if your in the nashville TN area, you may know Larry Hagen boat mechanic, my neighbor worked with Larry for years, he knows a fair amount about outboards.

Thanks again ladies and gents.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1964 sportwin 9.5, now oil leaking around bolt through manifold, cause poor idle?

Yes, a failing or failed gasket in the exhaust baffle plate area would allow water, perhaps in small amounts to start, to enter the combustion area... hence the shinny portion of the piston you mention.

With the spark plugs removed, spark on that model must jump a 1/4" to 3/8" with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

Also with both plugs still removed, check the compression. What is the psi reading of both cylinders?

I would suggest cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor... and clean/set the points as follows.

NOTE: To ease the flowing remarks of stupid & uncool from a younger one in your family, you might eliminate definitions such as "right, left, drivers side, etc" and use proper nautical ones such as bow, stern, starboard, and port to define which portion of the engine you're speaking of.

Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs... Port is to your left... Starboard is to your right.


(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

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(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

Keep in mind the following.... that 9.5hp model engine sits so low in the cowling that many component removal procedures require the removal of the starboard cowling, then the removal of the complete engine from the port cowling in order to gain access to those various areas. One hellava job for the untrained individual. Hopefully you do not encountered that problem.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1964 sportwin 9.5, now oil leaking around bolt through manifold, cause poor idle?

In case you do not already know this, the 1964 9.5 was a poor idleing motor from the get-go. They had very poor vibration control and literally shook themselves to death at idle. That may be part of the problem. Also, if it runs better with the hood off (on a boat, on the lake), that indicates another inherent common problem, an exhaust leak.

As Joe said, it is an easy motor to do common service operations on, but a real bear to get into things requiring removal from the shell if you are a novice.

 

[georgeJeff]

Re: 1964 sportwin 9.5, now oil leaking around bolt through manifold, cause poor idle?

Thanks for the help fellas, as Mr. Reeves pointed out I will take more effort to use correct terminology in the future. As far as the cool factor in my kids eyes: I am probably the only former redneck (now have culture according to my wife) custom duck call maker(12 years), degrees in physics, astronomy, mathematics, and education. I am afraid that the cool factor may be a pipe dream. But we try. And the older our kids get the more we realize that we will not be the most important person in their lives for very much longer, sad really. About the time you start making real money, and can afford to have some real fun and make real memories, they are gone.

In any case, gaskets ordered. Hopefully, when replaced the engine will be easier to start, and run well. Then I can sell the **** thing, and get a nice johnson 15hp or 9.9. Yes, I do know that these are not real good at idle, but should be better than it is now. I have it running on a 1957 alumacraft.