1964 Jupiter Restoration (A/K/A Project Maggie Moo)

MaggieMoo

Cadet
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
6
Hello all,

I'm David, and a few weeks ago, my twenty-year-old son Jake, called me to say his search for a small fishing boat was over. He had been spinning props since he got out of school for the summer, along with a family friend he found what was described to him, as a 1963 Starcraft Nassau. The photo's show she had spent the last 10 or so years as a duck, boat but Jake and his buddy saw beauty in the 50 something old girl.

The Pro's

She's pretty much intact.
The hull has some dents and scratches, but no need for welding.
Chrome hardware is in good shape for a boat of her age.
16' is the right size for use on our local waters (The Les Cheneaux Islands, in Lake Huron).
Our buddy (who has restored several boats) thought the amount of work needed was good for a first project.
The 1980 Johnson 35hp, ran better than it looked.
She had a trailer that was road legal, but in need of work
The price was fair for a ugly but working boat ($550.00).

The Con's
Ugly Green Paint, and a lot of it.
Floor boards, in need of replacement.
Seats had been replaced by milk crates.
The dash and transom where darn ugly.
She was in need of a really good cleaning.
The trailer was in pretty rough shape.

We cannot find a hull number, but the title says she's a 1964. That being a year prior to the Dolphin and Nassau, and the fact she does not have signs of the Nassau's side storage, leads us to think she's a 1964 Jupiter.

As Watermann said "We can make her what we want" but the plan is as follows:

Strip her down to the aluminum, and paint the deck, and below the water line.
Polish the sides to air stream bright.
New foam and floorboards.
Run new wires for the lights and motor.
Install a bilge
Clean up and do what we can to restore the windshield.
Clean and polish the chrome.
New wood dash.
New Seating.
Clean, repaint and tune up the motor.

Since we are the novices here, what are we missing? We are open to ideas opinions and advice on what we to do and not do? Seating and the windshield are the big questions for us, so we will be asking questions as we progress.

In short, talk us through this.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Looks like you have a pretty good list going.

I would add hull repairs to the list which can take a tremendous amount of time on some boats. This includes cleaning up pitting from corrosion, maybe skinning the pitting with Marine Tex, filling unwanted holes in transom skin and gunnels, replacing damaged leaky rivets and gluvit for the seams. Close inspection of knee brace and repairs if needed.

This is going to be a fun project, hope you enjoy every last minute of it!
 

MaggieMoo

Cadet
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
6
Thanks Watermann, this is where being a novice comes in. Is the gulvit, the brown substance along the seams? If so it appears to be intact along the seams, we where careful in the stripping process to not mess with it. As to rivets and leaks we filled her to the water line, and let her sit for a day, is that enough to confirm she is water tight? I did not think (or even know) about the knee brace, we will check on that. Here is the progress on stripping her down, we are getting close.

Question on the floor, if we use marine grade plywood does it matter between 1/2" and 3/4" ?
 

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ab59

Ensign
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
979
That's darn good work there guys and plenty of it too .3/4" plywood for your deck or you will regret it. 1/2" Would most likely feel spongy under your feet and just would not hold up like the 3/4 does.Watermann is without a doubt the one to ask the other questions.
by the way Welcome to the Starmada---you'll like it.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
The factory stuff is what you're seeing most likely, it's dark brown and the Gluvit is more amber colored and yeah don't mess with it. If it doesn't leak that's about all you can ask for. :thumb:

I don't use 3/4" plywood for much other than the transom as it needs to be 1.5" thick otherwise I've used 5/8" and 1/2" with some extra support. Using the rigid foam for flotation you can cut it to fit so that it adds support to the deck and not have the half again as much weight as 3/4" is over 1/2". A good 5 layer 1/2 ply properly supported works well without much oe even any spring and is the standard decking used by SC.
 

Decker83

Commander
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
2,593
:welcome: to the starmada..
Great start on the tear down. I used the 1/2" marine grade ply for my floor. I weigh in at 240 and have no problem with my floor.. I do have the rigid foam under my floor.
 
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