1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

enginedude

Seaman
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Jan 21, 2006
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56
I havea 1964 Hp fastwin I was taking of the coupling plate and half the screw head popped off. How do I get the screw out with out taking it to a shop.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

It might be worth trying to turn out the remainder of the screw by tapping it counterclockwise with a hammer and punch. Heat would help a lot, so get it as hot as you can.<br /><br />Failing that, I would grind the remainder of the head off with a dremel or die grinder until there was enough clearance for the cover to come off trying to leave a bit of a stub. If a stub remained, I would grab it with Vice Grips and heat the area around the screw with a MAPP torch, and unwind it out.<br />If it ends up with no stub worth grabbing, then your onto drilling & tapping it out. Tell us if you need help with that.<br /><br />Coat the screws and bolts with a little gasket sealer and it won't happen next time.
 

enginedude

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Jan 21, 2006
Messages
56
Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

I apprieciate the help with that. I got the screw out but I broke the outside plate.Thats ok anyway ill just order a brand new one. Now I have another problem once I pulled the plate and the screw out I had to undo the two screws on the couplink I got the top one out so I was able to drop the bottom. Once I got it out I looked at the bottom bolt on it and It was really stripped out. Now Im worried about bendingthe rod because I cant get that screw off. I need to replace it to prevent future hassle. I just dont want to mess it up. Do you guys have any suggestions.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

Ah, I've broke that cover before too. Even made a new one out of a peice of aluminium plate until I got a spare.<br /><br />You should only need to completely remove one of the two bolts from the coupler to get the lower unit off. If it's just the shift rod that's holding it the lower unit should drop about 1/2" or so when you put the engine in reverse. If it's not, then likely the driveshaft is jammed (with corrosion) in the crankshaft. Force it by driving wooden wedges between the lower unit and the midsection rather than wailing on the anti-ventilation plate. The only possible damage is to the water pump housing, which is relatively inexpensive.<br /><br />If it's just the coupler, try to turn it so the open end faces the window and spread it open a bit with a slot screwdriver. The shift rod ought to slide out but spreading it a bit will help. Those things strip all the time because they're just soft brass and people tend to overtighten the fasteners thinking it works like a clamp. <br /><br />Once the lower unit is off, it'll be a simple matter to remove the coupler.
 

enginedude

Seaman
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Jan 21, 2006
Messages
56
Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

I understand I already did that but the two bolts are a screw and a hex head bolt onthe top. I removed the top one and pulled the lower unit off. That wasnt the problem. The problem is the lower bolt which is a screw is stripped out. It is the lower coupling bolt. I need to replace it while I have it out of the leg. I dont know how to get it out with out messing the rod up. Also when I Drained the bottom half the liquid was a creamy white color almost offwhite. I dont know if this is normal or not please help
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

Sorry, I see now what you mean. Try pushing on the back of the screw while unwinding it, or even spread the coupler where the screw runs through it and unwind. Just let the threads catch anything and it'll come out.<br />If that doesn't work, cut through the slot in the coupler until you cut through most of the screw. Finish the job with a sharp chisel through the slot with the coupler being backed up by something heavy. The shift rod is very durable.<br />The creamy colour indicates water intrusion into the lower unit. But before getting too excited about replacing the seals in it, try simply replacing the nylon gaskets on the fill and drain screws. They are by far the most common source for water intrusion problems.<br />The lower unit seal kit for that outboard isn't very expensive, but it is fairly time consuming to install it. And you'll have to make a "special tool" or two.
 

enginedude

Seaman
Joined
Jan 21, 2006
Messages
56
Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

The actual head of the screw is stripped no the threads but Ill try again Im sure ill need a seal kit because all the seals in the motor were crumbled if not there at all.
 

Paul Moir

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6,847
Re: 1964 18 hp fastwin coupling screw cracked

Oh, I get what you mean. If it's possible to get vice grips on the screw now, go for it. Usually they don't rust in very bad to the brass. If it's a pan head or whatever, try cutting a slot into it with a hacksaw. The ideal tool to use on it would be a cheap impact screwdriver. It might even work fine with the existing, stripped slot.<br /><br />If none of that works, you're into drilling out the screw. But you'll probably wreck the coupler in the process so you might just want to cut it off and get a new one.<br /><br />I've found that the lower unit seals seem to survive better than the engine ones. Probably due to not being exposed to gasoline as much. You might want to pressure test the lower unit before pulling it apart. Carve a tire valve stem to fit the oil fill plug hole and screw it in. Pressurize the case with about 5psi and submerge it. Check where the bubbles come out.
 
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