1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

[igot_it]

Hey everyone here's the latest on my motor. It's a 1963 40 hp Super Sea Horse. I have been resurecting this beast from a long 15+ year nap and am having some issues. I rebuilt the carb to deal with ethanol rot, replaced the fuel lines and am now troubleshooting the ignition system. I bought two new coils to replace the orginal (cracked) ones. It fires on #1 cylinder only. I reassembled and checked for spark. I used one of the autozone style adjustable gap testers but right away I found a problem. No spark from either cylinder including the #1 that runs! What should I set the air gap on this thing at?
Part two to this puzzle. I swapped the coils and reassembled and then the engine only ran on the #2 cylinder. To me that would indicate a bad coil right? Is it possible to get a bad coil from the dealer? I checked both coils with an ohm meter and got 1 ohm off the primaries and 4.61 kohm on one coil and 4.91kohm on the other coil. Those secondary numbers seem ok to me. How about you guys? I did not change the points and condensers yet but I will.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

It fires on #1 cylinder only. I reassembled and checked for spark. I used one of the autozone style adjustable gap testers but right away I found a problem. No spark from either cylinder including the #1 that runs! What should I set the air gap on this thing at? Part two to this puzzle. I swapped the coils and reassembled and then the engine only ran on the #2 cylinder. To me that would indicate a bad coil right? Is it possible to get a bad coil from the dealer?

While I am no expert, I am inclined to believe the "new" coil is bad since the spark changed cylinders when you swapped the coils. The spark air gap should be at least 7/16inch and preferred to be 1/2inch. Good luck with that great old motor!

EDIT: Here's a link to procedures in the FAQ's by JBJennings who is one of the experts. He says 1/4inch is good. See what you get and post the results.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072

 

[igot_it]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

All right I'm no longer sure that it's a coil issue. I am starting to suspect the kill switch may be bad. Just so I understand the troubleshooting in my manual...the kill wires are the black wires with red connectors attached to the points correct? If I put a continuity meter on the screw side of the point with the key switch turned to "on" and rotate the crankshaft the ground continuity should drop in and out as the points open and close, correct? I think this is what the manual is trying to say. Then switching the key to "Off" the ground should be continuous regardless of points opening or closing. Am I missing something here? Or does that seem like I understand the procedure right.? It also mentions trouble shooting the vacum kill switch...what the heck is that?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

With it all assembled, and an ohm meter connected to the points, key off, it should alternate between the primary winding's one ohm and zero ohms as the points open & close.

Yes, turning the key off shorts everything out.

The vacuum cut-out switch is that thing mounted on the plastic base on the side. Its function is to kill the spark on the lower cylinder in event of a runaway condition. Since your spark moves from top to bottom when you swap the coil, it is not the vacuum switch, because that would remain with the bottom cylinder.

Sure sounds like a bad coil, doesn't it? Unusual, for a new one.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

Either that, or maybe a bad condenser, but that would probably show up as a dead short on the ohmmeter test.....

 

[igot_it]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

Thing is now what I get is no start. No spark either coil. I am wondering if I had a short and the switching was a coincidence. At first I was thinking I might have a wear spot where the wires go through the stator plate but they look fine. When I measure for continuity between the points and the ground I get the same reading regardless of the key switch. I am not able to get a visible spark on my air gap tester (rotating the flywheel by hand) but my neon tester does light up.

 

[igot_it]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

Oh I almost forgot....I replaced the condensers and points today as well. It needed new ones anyway.

 

[igot_it]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

The answer was....bad condensors. When I tried it last time I hadn't installed the new condensors yet. When I examined the old ones I pulled out there was carbon scoring on the underside of the can so something was arcing there. I am guessing one coil is just a little stronger than the other and was able to fight the bad condensors. Both cylinders are sparking on my neon tester but not on my air gap tester. When I reassembled it started way easier and I was able to get a good idle finaly. Sure is a lot easier to adjust the carb with both cylinders working!

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 1963 40 hp...New coil bad?

Attaboy!