1961 EVINRUDE LARK III 40 HP modified LONG shaft

[ZAX]

Well here's a classic motor : Just have a 13,394 questions . . . jk he he he serial no. 10194 model 55224 well where do I start any information at all on this engine would be appreciated . . . it's hard to ask simple questions about this 1961 evinrude 40 HP LARK III <br />because everyone tells you something different !I've seen the manual it's 40.00 dollars but even the book you can't go by between spark plug gaps ranging from .20 to .30 from J4C to J46 to J48 from gas/oil mixtures ranging from whats under the hood 24:1 compared to 50:1 OMC DOES NOT APPLY to this engine THIS IS THE BLACK SHEEP OF manufacture called E-V-I-N-R-U-D-E OMC Calls for dumping 32 onces 1 quart of oil in this engine ! I'm running 50:1 quicksilver and thats the end of that question . . next :-| jeepers creeprs, approx what is the top speed WOT on this engine ? people say ajust the fast idle speed needle IT'S A FIXED SETTING or i'm I wrong ? needle is inside the carb of the the side of the float bowl . . or is it in the middle of the float bowl like it says in the manual. Well I installed the carb kit and i'm thinking the float needs to come down a tad ,it needs to be ajusted a little lower seeing the fuel POARS out this hole next to the LARGE 4 Inch slow speed needle when I pump the ball sometimes and some times it don't float just a little to high i'm thinking speaking of mixture on the slow needle about 1 1/2 turns from the bottom OPEN ? or am I wrong? using the recomended J4C plug < That OMC Says has a pre gapped plug of .30 Is this correct? next. . THE BOAT very unique and strange looking 1974 Sea Sprite tri 16 ft fiberglass extreamly heavy kinda looks like a duck boat ,speed boat , bass boat, and a chrysler lebaron convertible vehicle all in one .Next. . impeller water pump water kinda dribbles out the hole ,is there a way to check correct operation of this with -out tearing this whole thing apart? the hose is on tight. I'm geeting the clunk thing like hitting bottom .Just picked up a used dog cluth 20.00 when putting this in should I put a new impeller in seeing i'm this far into it? It does not come out in a stream like it should do I try squirting the garden hose up in there or should I just install a new impeller , I don't even see a water pump anywhere on this motor , I bet next to the impeller I asume well thats about it like I said any information at all would be great . gone fishing ZAX

 

[Lark40]

Re: 1961 EVINRUDE LARK III 40 HP modified LONG shaft

My family had an Evinrude dealership at that time, so I may know some of your questions.<br /><br />OMC made three almost identical engines: Evinrude, Johnson, and Gale, made in the same plant, but sold throught different dealers.<br /><br />The mix was 24:1, but most owners would agree with 32:1 using modern oil. I would not use 50:1 in mine, although Quicksilver is top of the line quality.<br /><br />The idle speed is adjustable, and there is a linkage which you need a manual to properly set.<br /><br />WOT is 4500 rpm. These engines are slow compared to similar Mercury models, which revved higher.<br /><br />I 'm not going outside right now, but can tell you that Champion's current catalog will show the correct item for 1957-1974 Evinrude/Johnson 35 nd 40hp engines. NKG also makes a good plug.<br /><br />My first advice is that you spring for $27.95 at your local boat store and buy a 1956-1972 Clymer J/E repair manual.

 

[sharpsburg]

Re: 1961 EVINRUDE LARK III 40 HP modified LONG shaft

I'm with Lark...he knows his Evinrudes! My question is: How can you run Quicksilver in your '61-that's sacreligious by bowing to Carl Kiekhaefer (the Mercury Man himself)! Seriously, 24:1 or a little leaner is a good option. It doesn't pay to skimp on oil, even if we live in the time of synethetic blends. Stick with .0030 for your spark plugs. I think J6J is what I use in mine and it was factory. Champion changes their reference numbers just for S@G's it seems so you might want to cross-reference. The impellers/water pumps on these models were curiosity for me as well when I first got mine. Best bet is to remove the lower unit from the mid-lower unit (about 7 bolts) and gently pull it apart (there is a shifting connection that you need to treat kindly. Make sure you loosen the ends through a two bolt check hole on the mid-lower unit before disassembling. The impeller replacement is the easy part. Just make sure your get the "wings" of the impeller placed in the same direction as the original (note direction upon removal). <br /> If you're engine gives you specific problems that are reoccuring like my '61, threaten it...seems to help. Something like "if you don't run right, I'll replace you with a Mercury." Works well with mine! Probably even moreso with your present oil choice. (Forgive my B.S. I just gotta mess with you a little-I'm so OMC it makes my Merc friends shake their heads). Best of luck to you.