1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

[Fred Lederer]

couple of things,<br />was told by someone this motor is 50:1 mixture is this true? At a low and moderate speed engine sputters no matter how I adjust lean/rich. High speed runs great. Also I am using this motor as a kicker on a heavy boat, does anyone offer a good high thrust prop or other suggestions? I am also told there was an add on electric starter kit once available for this motor, anyone got any info on that?<br /><br />Thank you for any assistance in these matters

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

Welcome to Iboats, Muskie Fred. The original Fuel/Oil mix for your engine was 24:1. Have a look at the Oil Mix FAQ in the engine FAQ forum for details.<br />The 10 was only offered with an 8-1/2" prop. The next size down I see availabe is a 6-1/2" Michigan Match 3 blade that wouldn't be appropriate. There's a 7-1/4" but it's 2 bladed which isn't good for heavy loads. I take it you've never hooked a tach up to this engine?<br />There was never an electric start offered for the 10hp. Perhaps whoever told you that was thinking of the much later 9.9hp engines, which are twice removed from the 10s.<br /><br />Does the mixture control seem to 'do anything' at all? Does turning it one way or another help? Unfortunately, there are many things that can cause a bad idle, but the carb would be the first to go after.

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

The floatbowl gasket has a hole in it for the lowspeed fuel to travel to the adj. needle, with todays crappy fuels that gasket will swell up and restrict the fuel, causing a lean condition--Bob

 

[Fred Lederer]

Re: 1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

Thanks for the reply Paul,<br />Yea what you've told me on props is also what I cam up with on my own. I don't use the motor much but will see if PROPER mix ratio helps. Yes if I move the mixture screws, the motor will knock and ping. No I've never had a tach to hook on the motor but when I used the motor on a smaller/light boat there was much more RPMs than what I have now. I know a newer motor would suit my needs better than this motor but don't have the $2000 to fork out for a new motor so was hoping I could tweek and fine tune a bit to be comfortable with this motor. Other than that it might be time to look for a carb rebuild kit as you mentioned.

 

[Fred Lederer]

Re: 1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

Bob,<br />Would you suggest swelling the bowl gasket and checking dia (do you know what dia is prpoer) or would a carb rebuild kit contain this gasket and be made of a modern gasket material that is more compatible with todays fuels? With Pauls reply above I'm leaning towards rebuilding the carb anyhow. I've never rebuilt this carb and could probably use it if for nothing more than my own piece of mind. As far as I know it could be original build gaskets knowing who I got the motor from.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

By 'knock' and 'ping' do you mean 'sneeze' or 'blubber'? With 2-strokes when you lean them out they tend to 'sneeze' and when they're over-rich they tend to 'blubber' or '4-stroke'. Just getting our terminology straight. I don't think using 50:1 was affecting your idle much, but the engine will last longer at 24:1<br />Anyway, what you need to do is get your hands on a service manual and run through the link & sync procedures and rebuild that carb. Get the carb kit from a Johnson/Evinrude dealer because they come with a new fuel-tolerant float that's not included in the aftermarket kits. They cost round about $25. Laddiesservice is right about that bowl gasket swelling - another common problem is the packing around the low speed needle drying out and letting air in. Sometimes it's just plain old junked up idle jet orifaces though.<br />You can get a reprint of a factory manual from one of these places:<br />TheOutboardWizard<br />Mastertech<br />Marine Engine<br />Ken Cook <br />You can also probably borrow an aftermarket one from the local library if you don't want to wait. The Seloc one that Iboats sells is ok, but it's inferior to the factory one.<br /><br />Don't knock the older engines - they're simple, reliable, cheap, easy to fix and light.

 

[Fred Lederer]

Re: 1960 Evinrude 10 HP questions #10020

Ok I guess know that you mention it it is more of a sneezing problem. I guess I've worked on two many cars! Can't thank you guys for your quick reponses. I just registered, sumitted my questions and got replies within minutes. I wish my local dealer gave as quick responses, course he wants me to bring it in and charge me more than what I have in the motor. But he is a good source for parts.<br /><br />Thanks a lot guys for you help! It is very much appreciated!