1952 Johnson QD 13

[Grunt311]

Hello
I just purchased a 1952 Johnson Seahorse QD 13. I am new to the whole vintage motor community and have a few questions. As i search the web it seems parts for this motor are hard to come across. I see alot of 1954 and up but not much for the 1952.

I am looking for:
1) carburetor rebuild kit
2) recoil spring
3) Flywheel (The one on it has a piece busted off not huge but i am concerned over time the unbalanced weight will wear on the bearings)

And of course and help is always appreciated. I purchased a 1959 Freeland 14' aluminum boat a couple weeks back that i plan to put this motor on. The boat also came with a 1958 Johnson JW 14. I plan to use the boat for fishing with my son this summer after i get the beast restored a bit.

Thank you for any help offered, have a great day
Nick.

 

[oldboat1]

Welcome to iBoats! Solicitations are permitted on the AOMCI site (and free). Might give that a try.

Depending on condition, you might find the '58 easier to restore -- one of the prettiest too, IMO ('57 and '58 line). Start with coils, points, condensers and an impeller, should be available here.

 

[F_R]

1. Not sure what carb is on that year motor. If it has a choke, carb kits are still made for it. If it has a primer, carb kits do not exist (never did). You have to order individual parts for that one.
2. Recoil spring is part #41-197, replaced by 395460, still being made
3. Flywheel # 580155 fits QD-12 through QD-16. Should be an easy find at aomci.org Classified Ads forum

 

[Grunt311]

F_R Thank you for the information I will look into these parts. I ran the motor last night and there is a white milky fluid coming out of intake side of the carb. It is not excessive but I also notice when I unhooked the lines from the pressure tank the same fluid came out of the return line to the tank. Is this a sign of a blown head gasket or normal? The motor runs at a high idle with an occasionally pop. When I try to accelerate the motor it begin to speed up then dies out as if it is not getting fuel. I have tried adjusting the low speed screw and the motor seems to run the best at about 3/4 of turn out. Any ideas? Thanks Nick

 

[F_R]

Coming from the carburetor intake, I would say it is condensation that occurs when the air is cooled as it goes though the venturi, then emulsifies with the gas. Has a lot to do with the prevailing temperature and dew point.

Coming from the pressure line---I'm not confident that I know the answer to that. It could be water entry into the crankcase.

Popping at high speed (more like a bang or clunk) may be a worn out clutch dog in the lower unit. Popping or sneezing at slow speed indicates running too lean.

I still don't know what carb was used that year because I don't have the parts book. I have the years before and after. As for the needle opening, whatever works best is normal for that particular motor.