140 VRO rude still stalls after adjustments

[Sal G]

Just got back from troubleshooting my 140 vro.<br />Engine has been stalling when put in reverse after usual warmup. When running at WOT sometimes she runs like champ and sometimes she'd bog down.<br />Suspecting water in the tank. I removed at least 3 gallons of gas (series pumping some directly into a plastic clear jug by disconnecting the hose that leads to the engine and simply squeezing the primer bulb. The first several times showed quite a bit of water ONLY when I dumped the fuel from the water separator. Took the boat for a spin and it ran great at WOT but everytime I reduced the speed and then opened up again it just started to bog down but it sounded like it was trying to open up. If <br />I waited ling enough it would then kick in. I then <br />stopped the engined, removed the water separator, dumped the fuel into a plastic tank, put the water <br />sepaprator back on, primed the bulb and it ran like a bat again until I slowed her down - the same bogging effect when I tried WOT. <br />Bought carb cleaner the other day ad sprayed some<br />into the cabs, let it stand for 10 minutes or so<br />and started the engine - spraying intermittanly<br />- didn't seem to do much. Boat was idling at 850-<br />950 RPMs and today I increased it to 1050-1100 rpms. Didn't seem like there are any leaks in my system. New plugs-wires, 89 octane fuel. Could there still be some water present in the fuel that is not visible? Always used fuel stabilizer during my last trip of the season and I usually leavea half a tank of stabilized fuel over the winter. <br />Also noticed one plug cleaner than the rest but it is definitely firing. (this boat running at 40-45 mph) Couple drops of water came out when I shook the plug. Same for the other 3 but even less plus these 3 had the usual normal traces of oil/carbon deposits. Had this boat for 5 seasons and it always<br />ran fine at 900 rpms- that is it wouldn't stall if I put her in reverse. This bogging down/ stalling thing startred to become more appaprent late last season. Sorry this story is so winded and I do appreciate any help

 

[hunt-fish.com]

Re: 140 VRO rude still stalls after adjustments

Hi Sal,<br /><br />I've had very similar problems with my '90 115 Johnson. Check all of the plastic hose clamps and tie wraps on the fuel lines and fuel filter. She may be sucking air. Check the fuel filter or change it. There may be junk in it obstructing the flow. Next I'd try running some Marvel mystery oil mixed in the fuel. The low speed and high speed orifaces in the carbs won't benefit from spraying carb cleaner in the throat. Running Marvel Mystery oil in the tank will clean the entire fuel system of varnish and gum. If it's really gummed up you need to rebuild the carbs. Make sure you use OMC approved carb cleaner so you don't damage the rubber, plastic parts and gaskets.<br /><br />John

 

[Sal G]

Re: 140 VRO rude still stalls after adjustments

Hi John<br />Thanks for your speedy reply. Believe it or not, my friend told me about Mystery Oil that he uses on his Mercruiser I/O. Now that I know it can be used <br />on an Q/B I will DEFINIYELY give it a shot. I don't think(maybe, maybe not) the carbs are varnished up because when she runs...SHE REALLY RUNS GREAT, plus I've always used stabilizer when I winterized the engine. As for the cleaner I used, you're probably right by saying I should of used an OMC approved cleaner. Went by my dockmasters advice - he said there's no real difference in carb cleaners. After a while I don't know who to believe. Thanks again and have a great boating season.<br /><br />Sal

 

[bonitoman]

Re: 140 VRO rude still stalls after adjustments

Buy a 6 gallon fuel tank with hose and test boat off the tank. If your engine runs great then you know that it is your fuel tank. After 10 years old a fuel tank should be replaced. Some people have boats 20 years old with the same fuel tank and no problems. This way with a different tank you know that you are getting good clean fuel.