Tiger-Striped-Bass
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2009
- Messages
- 14
Power trim motor wouldn't turn the other day on my '06 4-stroke 90 Yamaha. Solenoid would click and power was going out to the trim motor but it would not spin. Used the manual bypass to raise/lower motor. Got home and I took the motor off of the pump (engine fully lifted up). The reservoir at this point is full, and is even a little above the fill tap. No part of the pump or lines were exposed to air. The fluid level stays right below the seam where the motor mates to the pump assy.
Inside the motor I find a lot of black dust from normal brush wear. I clean that out and brighten up the surface of the armature where the brushes contact. Motor works just fine now. Re-coupled it to the pump and the motor runs fine, but the trim doesn't move the hydraulic cylinder/engine.
At this point, I start to wonder if air did somehow get in the system, though I can't figure out how. Further, the motor will hold any position with the bypass closed and will never bleed down. It seems to me that if air were in the system, it would not hold position - you can't budge it either way with the bypass closed. I read here that these are self-bleeding systems, so I do as prescribed and cycle the motor up and down using the manual bypass (only way I can move it). However, if I crack the fill plug, I get fluid, no air. Remember the level when I removed the motor was above the fill tap. Apparently it stays there. So that procedure gets me nowhere. I took the motor back off just to verify the two are meshing together and the coupling is ok. All appears fine.
Obviously, I won't be able to vent air out of the fill tap if the fluid level is above it - I realize that. But remember, this thing has had that much fluid since it was created, so I don't want to drain any, in an attempt to bleed air that may not even exist. I am trying to make the least amount of changes from when it did work to prevent introducing new problems. I guess the way around that would be to cycle it up and down as before, but bleed any air by cracking the motor from the pump.
I just really can't see how I could have gotten air in the system and I can't see how the cylinder would hold that heavy motor up, if there was air in the system.
You guys have any suggestions?
TIA
Inside the motor I find a lot of black dust from normal brush wear. I clean that out and brighten up the surface of the armature where the brushes contact. Motor works just fine now. Re-coupled it to the pump and the motor runs fine, but the trim doesn't move the hydraulic cylinder/engine.
At this point, I start to wonder if air did somehow get in the system, though I can't figure out how. Further, the motor will hold any position with the bypass closed and will never bleed down. It seems to me that if air were in the system, it would not hold position - you can't budge it either way with the bypass closed. I read here that these are self-bleeding systems, so I do as prescribed and cycle the motor up and down using the manual bypass (only way I can move it). However, if I crack the fill plug, I get fluid, no air. Remember the level when I removed the motor was above the fill tap. Apparently it stays there. So that procedure gets me nowhere. I took the motor back off just to verify the two are meshing together and the coupling is ok. All appears fine.
Obviously, I won't be able to vent air out of the fill tap if the fluid level is above it - I realize that. But remember, this thing has had that much fluid since it was created, so I don't want to drain any, in an attempt to bleed air that may not even exist. I am trying to make the least amount of changes from when it did work to prevent introducing new problems. I guess the way around that would be to cycle it up and down as before, but bleed any air by cracking the motor from the pump.
I just really can't see how I could have gotten air in the system and I can't see how the cylinder would hold that heavy motor up, if there was air in the system.
You guys have any suggestions?
TIA