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Going to wrap this up.
I adjusted the carb float as some suggested, no help. Then too lean. Adjusted to rich accelerator pump setting, still lean (bogs on acceleration).
Tach signal wire was touching metal (rubbed through insulation, so I taped it up).
I replaced the original module with an...
I know you all think I am throwing money at this, but at the moment the only part I threw at this is a $13 module that was allready in my parts bag that was given to me….
Cap, rotor, plugs, and wires was just long overdue (1997). Fuel pump was soo over corroded it was needed and at the end of...
I did not test for voltage or ground, I did test for continuity and when a bunch of resistance is there something is broken and interrupting the wires path. And I know the signal wire isn’t a circuit. But if the wire is broken or bridging with another source ground or voltage then it could be...
Thought I mentioned it earlier. Tach signal wire removed from tach, distributor coil plug unplugged. Continuity check with a multi meter from one end to the other. Also checked at the tach test connector.
I did not check it for voltage or ground, I didn’t really care. Needs fixed one way or...
I guess I shouldn’t have said jumps. I know the gears aren’t jumping teeth. No chain or timing belt. Pretty sure only the module can move the timing like this.
Deeper than I wanted to be that’s for sure. I never adjusted the timing, just checked it.
I will let you know in a couple days what the problem was….. Hopefully.
I have the EST ignition if that makes a difference. It jumps to 6ATDC and starts knocking at idle, but RPM seems ok.
Well with the tach disconnected the signal line has a short. So it is not the TACH itself.
I think to follow your testing I would need to push the signal wire out of the plug...
I was only checking continuity (signal wire removed from tach and unplugged at the coil). Tach seems ok until off and it sits above zero. It wasn’t the tach that made me check it. I read that a shorted signal wire can affect ignition. I just wanted to rule it out, and of course it had a...
Expletive, expletive!! I have a short in my tachometer signal wire.
Also to no ones surprise, my MAIN COIL is GOOD. It tested 0.4 ohms on both ends with my other Multimeter. Multimeters should come with a 1ohm resistor to test them.
Could a shorted tach signal wire cause the module to throw...
Timing seems to be set right, but after a few minutes (with jumper and interrupter wires connected) it jumps to 6 degrees ATDC. What do you think? Distributer is not moving it is locked in place.
Module overheating, bad module? Tach shorting? Carb tune? Coil? This is all a nightmare and I...
Going to retest coil, and I am going to remove my tachometer wire too. I read if it is shorting somewhere in the tach then it can mess with ignition. Just to rule it out. Replace coil as needed. Then restart it and see how it runs with wires tightened up and tach unplugged. Might screw in...
Right but Mercruiser wants $225. I found the latest one they use is AC Delco part# 19418839 about $125. But I might go with CDI on that $115 if I change it.(they claim better than OEM).
I found all the wire terminals going to it were drastically flared out. I popped them out and tightened...
I quadruple checked firing order, it is correct. But tested the coils here are results.
Pickup Coil inside distributer: Spec= 500-1500 ohms
mine tested = 880
Main Coil mounted on engine:
Spec from B to body = open
mine tested = open
Spec from B to D = approximately 0.4 ohms
mine tested =...
Ok pickup coil 500-1500ohms just read it. Guess I have all the suggestions from you guys.
Seems like the consensus is it is the carb.
I will leave a post when I wrap up just to confirm the end result.
Thanks everyone for the help. I know it is not easy to diagnose what’s going on when you...
Ok just read where you said I could do it without the jumper in. I did and the timing was showing I would guess somewhere around 16 before tdc at idle it was off the scale. But also jumping around there but on average 16 ish. New module and timing was steady until it jumped after a few min.
Do...
Well other parts were CDI ignition parts. I hear a lot of manufacturers use them so thought it was a good brand. The module was just to have in my parts bag incase I got stuck on the water. Cheap part in my bag better than no part in a pinch. You should have seen the cap it looked like...
I did not adjust distributer and it seemed solid it doesn’t move. I just swapped module with a $13 amazon module I had in my spare parts.
You mentioned timing might be way off (ran good before and I didn’t adjust it): With the new module, I confirmed the timing was just about perfect...
