The iboats forum moderators are excited to announce that at this time it appears the iboats forums posting pictures function is working once again. Though we cannot promise for how long, we're hoping for indefinitely.
A few years ago, I had some fuel/water issues and had a professional fuel polisher come to the boat to take care of it. When he pumped fuel into a clear container, the line between fuel and water was obvious, very distinct and immediate. There was no question. We could even look thru the...
Water and gas separate pretty much immediately. No need to wait overnight, but if it has a slight amber color and smells strongly of gas, sounds like it is gas.
Get the vaccine. Shingles is not something anyone should have to suffer with and in many cases, the word suffer is an understatement. I’ve seen too many friends and family get it and they are miserable and not just for a few days. My wife had it on her face and it affected one eye. While...
I would be very surprised that a 35 footer would have a fuse panel underneath the helm. Most likely, it will be out in the open in the main salon/galley area, behind some kind of door, either hinged or sliding.
Just a thought…
go to YouTube and watch a video on replacing the T-Stat to make sure you are doing it correctly. It’s easy to put it in backwards. Don’t ask me how I know.
But, as I mentioned earlier, see what happens if you run the engine without the T-Stat.
Based on info given, most likely it is your risers/manifolds. Not an expert on this, but just for the heck of it, remove the T-stat, run the boat and see what happens
What parts are you looking to get? Anything electrical must be a marine version. Pretty sure same goes for the carb. Marine engines also use a different cam.
I recently sold my 2002, 215 SSI and that is where mine was located, behind a small oval chrome grill, maybe 3x5”. Agree, not a very loud horn.
Are you sure you even have one? Just because you have a horn switch, doesn’t mean you have one.
That tells you the shear pin has been “sheared”, which is their purpose. You hit something in the water and the shear pin breaks before the prop is damaged.
I buy 2 different antifreezes, both are pink.
West Marine sells one for $6.99 that is made for both water and engines. It is PG antifreeze that is alcohol free with added rust inhibitors.
That is what I use in my engines and air conditioning system.
For the heads and water system, I buy the RV...
Ok, just for future reference, that engine is referred to as RWC, raw water cooled. An engine with closed cooling (anti freeze running through the block) is FWC, fresh water cooled.
OK, the button at the bottom of the shift lever…when you push it in, it basically disengages the transmission linkage and allows you to rev the motor while still in neutral. That is its sole purpose. Are you sure you are pushing that button hard enough?
Ok, please clear this up…you say it is a fresh water engine. Do you mean the boat is only used in fresh water or it is a fresh water cooled engine, meaning it has a closed cooling system with anti freeze running through the block.
