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Cast Iron Ford 4bbl intake Holley 4160 or Edelbrock 1409 but if the efi is working well, might as well wait till it needs to be done

Ah I see so as long as you keep the EFI system you have to use them. A carb conversion does make things easier

Is this because the EFI parts are mounted to the exhaust elbow, but the ones for carbed engines don't have that provision? If that's the case can they be moved, or is the wiring harness not long enough to allow that so you can use the standard elbow? Looks like most of the fuel system components...

Wonder if you have an air leak in the fuel line from the tank to the primer bulb…or a restriction in the fuel pick up tube…

Sounds good post up your results glad the electric chokes work properly. The will definitely open faster than the old manifold heated chokes.

What I did was remove the metal fuel line at both the pump & carb (use a line wrench so you don't round off the hex fittings) and took it to a speed shop. I got barbed fittings matched up with the same thread to thread into the fuel pump and the carb and used 3/8ths rubber line with the pressure...

I disconnected the steel line from the pump to the carb and made up a rubber line with the right size barbed fittings and put the fuel pressure gauge in the center of that line. That gives a more accurate reading than dead heading the pump. Also just thought of something else, what did you do...

Did you replace the fuel pumps? Ever check the fuel pressure? Higher than normal fuel pressure (over 7 psi for a Quadrajet) can overcome the needle and seat and force fuel into the bowl, causing higher than normal fuel level. All Vortec engines have electric pumps, the older pre-Vortec engines...

There was a guy by the name of rick who was on the Bayliner Owners club and he was a marine mechanic in Washington State. He had made up a few diagrams really explaining this, I wish I made copies of them, but I might be able to look around and see if I can find if they are still on the 'net...

Thinking more about it, I think the part of the driveshaft that's in the coupler, has to slide in/out a bit when you trim up/down or steer left/right. So like a slip joint on an automotive driveshaft, some CVs do that too.

https://www.florida4x4.com/tech/quadrajet/qjtshoot.pdf probably more than you want to know, but the guy who wrote it is one of the Q-Jet gurus, along with Cliff Ruggles.

Is the carb that's on it original to the original engine? Given the fact that the Vortec heads flow more air, I'd expect the original carb from the pre-Vortec engine to run leaner but that's not what you are finding. Any Quadrajets that are sold by the big "reman" outfits, can't be relied on to...

Well the driveshaft on the I/O can actually slide on the coupler splines not sure if this actually happens much but you are supposed to grease those splines with a good spline grease every time the driveshaft uses is off. I think CVs can handle more angular movement with less vibration than...

Interesting questions! The basic alignment is lining up the gimble bearing to the coupler which as you say is 2 points that have to align. Now of course there’s the other end of the driveshaft which terminates in the upper gear housing of the outdrive. I think the issue of a 3rd point of...

I can't wait to hear your theory behind the mystery of how it unwound itself!

You raise some very good questions but I don’t know the answers to most of them not having had to adjust the alignment on my boat. I would however, rotate the engine 90* from where you started and continue to where you were at the beginning (0*, 90*, 180*, 270* and 360*) and check again, Do this...

Agreed Horigan's way is the best way. Build a cart, or modify a motorcycle jack to make the drive R&R easier, then get the alignment right, then you're good and won't have to worry about stressing the coupler due to the alignment being off.

I also glued my deck down but I did use some screws, the main thing is to countersink them and cover with sealer, and any holes you have to drill for seat mounting must be sealed. I didn't do this, but it would probably be a good idea to over-drill the hole and fill it with epoxy and then drill...

The front would be good to see because we can see how the adjustment is made and if you take both sides, you can see how they are different from side to side which is what your concern is. These things often get rusted in place so it's hard to imagine how it moved on its own. On my boat if I...

Our beach association has a floating dock but it is removed at the end of each season, even though the dock is free to move up & down with the tides. We get freezing but it rarely freezes solid.