1980 100hp vs 1986 110hp ignition coils

[mvanek21]

I'm having some issues with my 1980 100hp evinrude (E100TLCSC) and keep dropping a cylinder, i have yet to confirm which cylinder is it but i suspect it is my No.3 cylinder as the coil is showing signs of the yellow glue melting down the side a bit and the wire to the plug has a crack with exposed wire showing at the coil to the plug. I've got a 1986 110hp evinrude (E110TLCDC) parts motor that has brand new looking coils on it. Would swapping these coils into my 100 pose any immediate issues or issues down the road and are they compatible? On crowley marine they have two different coil part no.'s but the picture is identical and im having a tough time knowing whether they are truly compatible or not.

 

[racerone]

Coils are all the same from about 1979 to 98.----Also the same whether 6 HP or 300 HP.----Wires might be a little different and easy to adapt.

 

[mvanek21]

Coils are all the same from about 1979 to 98.----Also the same whether 6 HP or 300 HP.----Wires might be a little different and easy to adapt.

Thank you, its tough to find any applicable answers online with the age of these motors. Appreciate your help!

 

[racerone]

I started working on outboards in 1968.---Some issues are easy to solve on older motors.----Do yourself a favor and do a compression test on this motor.---Keep the actual values for future reference and post them here.

 

[mvanek21]

I started working on outboards in 1968.---Some issues are easy to solve on older motors.----Do yourself a favor and do a compression test on this motor.---Keep the actual values for future reference and post them here.

I had compression of 105,108,105,107 a few days ago, I've read anywhere from 90-130 is ideal. I don't plan on touching anything with these.

 

[racerone]

I would want to see 125 PSI or so.----If a motor was here at 105 PSI it would like be in line for major work.----But perhaps you have a bad gauge.

 

[mvanek21]

I would want to see 125 PSI or so.----If a motor was here at 105 PSI it would like be in line for major work.----But perhaps you have a bad gauge.

at what point would you consider pulling the heads and changing gaskets, o rings, ect.?

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I'm a run it till it dies kinda guy but trying a new gauge is the best advice. If that doesn't check out then pull, flatin and change the head gaskets.

Lots online about using sandpaper to true them up.

Fish on!

 

[cyclops222]

I really like the fairly close compression readings. It shows aging. Have to find the electrical parts needed to get it running O K again. You can change those ignition parts. Change ALL the coils of all the cylinders at the same time. Should perk right up.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I really like the fairly close compression readings. It shows aging. Have to find the electrical parts needed to get it running O K again. You can change those ignition parts. Change ALL the coils of all the cylinders at the same time. Should perk right up.

I would have to agree.

 

[mvanek21]

Coils are all the same from about 1979 to 98.----Also the same whether 6 HP or 300 HP.----Wires might be a little different and easy to adapt.

Same question goes for my rectifier/regulator. 1980 has two seperate units connected at the terminal block… 1986 model has a rectifier/regulator all in one with all the wires meeting up at its terminal block. Would this be a compatible swap if I am able to mount it somewhere safely on the motor? My regulator is bad and allowing the battery to receive too much voltage. I have a similar post out regarding this, I was hoping I’d be able to message you privately to ask you but hopefully this will do.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I believe that you need the same number of wires.

How much voltage did it get to.
Voltage rise should be fairly slow.

 

[mvanek21]

I believe that you need the same number of wires.

How much voltage did it get to.
Voltage rise should be fairly slow.

It got up to 15.3 before i killed the motor, it seemed to go up faster from 12.8 to 14.2 and then kept creeping up. I had it at about 1500rpm the whole time with no changes to that

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I think they go higher than that but I'm not really the expert on that.

 

[havoc_squad]

The

Same question goes for my rectifier/regulator. 1980 has two seperate units connected at the terminal block… 1986 model has a rectifier/regulator all in one with all the wires meeting up at its terminal block. Would this be a compatible swap if I am able to mount it somewhere safely on the motor? My regulator is bad and allowing the battery to receive too much voltage. I have a similar post out regarding this, I was hoping I’d be able to message you privately to ask you but hopefully this will do.View attachment 396778View attachment 396779View attachment 396780

The short answer is no, you cannot because the rectifier/regulator combo on 1986 and later is a water cooled unit that goes on the position where the lift ring is fastened on SPL designated engines and many of the V4 crossflows before 1986.



If the mounting on that is the same, you will have to pull the flywheel to remove the lift ring and install the regulator. This is presuming you have the model that has the 10 amp stator for tilt and trim equipped model.

If you have the 6 amp stator, it would probably be best to just to get the CDI rectifier/regulator combo mentioned below.

10 amp stators would be better off using the rectifier/regulator that mounts where it gets cooled by the powerhead.

https://www.cdielectronics.com/product/193-3408/

You can download their diagnostic guide for free without having to hunt down a service manual at this link, and this is the aftermarket model that combines rectifying and regulating that is best for the 6 amp stators.

 

[mvanek21]

The


The short answer is no, you cannot because the rectifier/regulator combo on 1986 and later is a water cooled unit that goes on the position where the lift ring is fastened on SPL designated engines and many of the V4 crossflows before 1986.

View attachment 396826

If the mounting on that is the same, you will have to pull the flywheel to remove the lift ring and install the regulator. This is presuming you have the model that has the 10 amp stator for tilt and trim equipped model.

If you have the 6 amp stator, it would probably be best to just to get the CDI rectifier/regulator combo mentioned below.

10 amp stators would be better off using the rectifier/regulator that mounts where it gets cooled by the powerhead.

https://www.cdielectronics.com/product/193-3408/

You can download their diagnostic guide for free without having to hunt down a service manual at this link, and this is the aftermarket model that combines rectifying and regulating that is best for the 6 amp stators.

Ive got the 3/9 stator with my model having power tilt and trim

 

[racerone]

The water cooled rectifier / regulator will fit on the 1980 model V-4.

 

[mvanek21]

The water cooled rectifier / regulator will fit on the 1980 model V-4.

is my 100hp model a 9 or 16 amp stator, power T&T... if i dont swap the regulated rectifier assembly from the 110 i was looking at an air cooled unit but want to make sure its the proper rated unit.

 

[racerone]

The 1980 models with trim / tilt came with a 10 amp system.----But it is 40 years later.----No telling what is on there now.----Part # on your stator is ??

 

[mvanek21]

The 1980 models with trim / tilt came with a 10 amp system.----But it is 40 years later.----No telling what is on there now.----Part # on your stator is ??

583672