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So I want to thank you all for your ideas and suggestions. Although it was probably one of the most stubborn screws I have ever had to unscrew, my efforts were finally met, this morning, with success.
After many attempts of whacking it, heating it, cooling it, and different forms of slotted...
So I am trying to change the lower unit oil in my 15Hp 1990 Evinrude and the slotted screw for the bottom of the LU is not unscrewing. I had it out this time last year. I have tried a regular slotted screwdriver, a larger tire iron with a slotted end, one of those easy outs drivers that turn...
20 mph is awesome. Good job
If it is hot out you won't need a choke. That said I would be surprised if it is starting, without a choke, on a fairly cold morning. Even so if she is running well I would probably leave it. Starting when it should not is a much better problem to have then not...
Of course you also want to look closely for any signs of air leaks. That will also prevent fuel from flowing to the carb but I would think you would also see fuel leaking when you prime it, but take a close look at all the connections anyway, and look at the conditions of your tank's fuel hose...
Another thought. When you cleaned the carb did you put the little clip on the inlet valve to the float.
Sometimes those inlet valves can stick and they came up with that little clip to make sure the inlet valve will get pulled out of that passage way to allow more fuel to enter the carb as...
When slowing down the motor, I don't know how much the cam moves where the roller comes off the cam but I think there is at least some movement where the roller does not touch the cam when slowing down. That motor should have a idle stop knob on it as well, at the end of the tiller, after the...
I believe the line on the throttle cam should be in the middle of your roller when that cam just touches the roller. If it is off adjust the linkage until it lines up. Don't worry about where the throttle is saying it is positioned when doing that, just make sure the roller touches the cam at...
I will add the disclaimer here that I have never worked on a 1956 15Hp motor, but I have a 1961 5.5Hp and going from memory I don't remember that little hole in drive shaft down by the impeller. On my 5.5Hp the driveshaft has a little hole like that but it is up towards the powerhead. It has a...
"Only thing left is cam roller missing a rubber sleeve I haven't fixed. "
Without that rubber sleeve I would think you would be having problems synching the carb to the timing advance. Also, the throttle starting positions would be all messed up. I would fix that first. For a band aid fix I...
What do you mean by that? What does a few puffs mean? Is it running for a couple of revolutions and then dying or is absolutely no fuel being combusted at all? This is very important.
If it sat for 8 years and you did not clean and reset the points then it is most likely running on one cylinder and you are lucky to be getting the one.
Right now that is just a guess so do a cylinder drop test in the barrel. Start it up and let it get warm. Bring it to a fast idle and with a...
Put a few teaspoons of pre-mix gas into each cylinder, put the the spark plugs back in and pull on the starter a few times. The motor will either start and stall, once it burns through the gas. Start and run fine or you will get no response from it at all.
If it starts and stalls you most...
I am assuming that what you did with your reversed wires is send the ignition spark from the powerpack under the flywheel to the wrong secondary coil/spark plug lead. If this is the case, when the powerpack thought it was sending its ignition spark to the top cylinder, precisely when it was at...
In Summary for future reference:
When you motor doesn't start, put a little fuel in the cylinder holes and if it coughs but then dies it is most likely a fuel deliver problem. Carb, fuel pump, air leak, fuel line or fuel tank. If it coughs, starts and then runs great afterwards, it is...
