Todd, given the brutal cold you described, I'd also check the fittings where the hoses connect to the helm and the ram – those can loosen slightly with freeze/thaw cycles. Since you can't start it yet, it might be worth topping off the reservoir and marking the level so you can track if it's...
That rhythmic brushing sound is almost certainly the impeller itself. Most likely causes:
Impeller blades installed backwards (they need to curve in the direction of rotation)
One blade folded back during installation and scraping the housing
Housing cover not seated fully flat, causing slight...
The blower dropping voltage from 14V to 12V is a big clue. That means the alternator cant handle even a small extra load — which points to a high resistance connection somewhere in the charging circuit, not the alternator itself (since it does put out 14V unloaded). A healthy circuit wouldnt...
Good news is the alternator itself is fine since it charges at 14V once backfed. Alldodge is right about peeling back that insulation — on these Volvo harnesses the wires splice inside heat shrink or loom tape and those splices corrode over time.
I'd bet theres a corroded splice or broken...
Following along on this one. Interesting that both motors are reading similar fuel pressure now (SB 42/49, Port similar). The spec range for the 250 Verado is 42-44 psi at idle and 49-54 key ON — so your actually right at the bottom end on both which makes me wonder if the issue is upstream of...
Alldodge's wiring diagram is spot on — on the GLP-D the fuel pump is electric and gets its power routed through the alternator circuit via that diode. So yes, a dead alternator can absolutely kill your fuel pump even if the battery is fully charged. Its a wierd design choice but thats how Volvo...
Good fix! Lapping the flywheel taper is one of those things nobody thinks about but makes a huge diffrence. The rust buildup on the ring magnet was probaly causing the flywheel to sit slightly high on the crankshaft which shifts the trigger position relative to the sensor — thats why the timing...
The seal flange goes toward the thermostat housing (facing outward/away from the block). The flat side seats against the thermostat itself. Think of it as the flange creating a lip that the housing presses down onto to make the seal.
Also regarding your earlier question about water flow...
