The voltmeter on the dash is in the green showing around 13v,
I don't understand what you mean when you're saying "Have yet to have a bad coil not pass the ohms test." Are you saying that a bad coil can read good ohms and still be bad? There are no cracks or any signs of deterioration on them...
All the coils check out to spec with an ohm meter. This in not a FITCH engine, just has 6 hungry carbs. No overheat warning or fuel restriction alarm. I've experienced that before with a clogged water separator. I have replaced the timing base and stator, and and rebuilt the flywheel a couple of...
Hi all, the engine was running fine for about 30 mins between 4500 and 5500, I slowed down to idle thru a No Wake zone for 10 mins then when accelerating back up, it was very slow to respond and would not go past 4000 rpm. The tachometer needle would occasionally drop down to zero and back up...
Check the magnets on the inside of the flywheel while you have it off. I had a bunch come loose. They are only epoxied to the flywheel and can and will come loose and move out of place.
Is the timing base moving freely? It should start to move before the throttle plates open. I had one get sticky from goo leaking down from a stator once.
If it's a freshwater boat then the exhaust manifold and riser are worth a few of hundred bucks as they are NLA and the Cobra outdrive a couple too, but it's limited to just the 2.3 engine. For the rest of the boat and engine, drop it all off at the landfill.
So I found the OEM kits with floats for about the same price as the Sierra kits without and will go with them. I guess it can't hurt to replace the floats while I've got them tore down.
Hi all, I'd like to rebuild the carbs on my '96 Evinrude 200 Oceanpro during the off season. I see OEM kits with new floats and also aftermarket kits without the floats for a little less money. Should I bother replacing the floats when rebuilding if there's nothing wrong with the old ones...
