Temp switch has a short.
Something I noticed that may have contributed to the confusion the diode in alldodges diagram shows a purple wire and a
white wire. My boat seems to match everything else except the diode has a purple/yellow and a white wire.
Still may not be the root cause but unplugging the oil pressure sensor isolated that circuit. After that I was just looking for things the purple/purple yellow wire went to. But if the diode runs the TKS sensor sounds like I should check into that as well. I can trace the wire but if you guys...
I also checked continuity and found that it was shorted. (Obvious because it was freaking hot) after reading your link I checked it the other way and found continuity in both directions.
Bypassing the pressure switch by jumping across purple/purple yellow caused 4 volts at coil with key on and the fuse in the dash blew before I tried to crank it. Tomorrow I will look for short in purple yellow wire
I’m assuming it’s the oil pressure switch located directly about the oil filter? Not sure what else it could be. Purple wire in purple/yellow out. When I disconnected it I get 10 volts at the coil.
For the ground I’ve been using the black wire the goes to the cigarette lighter up by the dash and in the engine compartment the black lead stays clamped right on the battery post. Not sure how else I could be doing it wrong. Can see copper on wires by the cannon plug so I know I was making good...
If there is something specific you think I should quadruple check I will. You could be on to something. Every test I’ve done was done repeatedly to verify. I make sure I have 12 volts then turn the key and watch it go down to 9 then back up to 12 volts. The digital meter with a stand and clamp...
I’m sure. Had meter in the middle of the connection on the jumper wire, 12v down to 9 while cranking. A splice in the purple wire you mean correct? That’s really all I’ve been checking this afternoon.
Jumped across B to I. Yes gages light up. No change otherwise. It is not wired incorrectly it’s just an off color purple and it’s the exact same wire color on both sides of the cannon plug.
Got a new digital meter with clamp probes. Much better. This is what I learned.
I’m losing about 2 volts at red/purple while cranking and another 1v through the switch. (I) terminal and every purple in the dash is at 9 volts while cranking. This is still better than what I have in the engine...
How do I test the cannon plug? Will it work with the plug apart?
I cannot get behind the panel. I need to take the throttle off. There is no panel, it’s a solid wall
This was where my confusion came from. That picture is the old switch before I took anything apart. The wires are connected the same way as when the boat was running. My problem is not the key switch or the wiring.
