I have done this job 10 times on my boat.
Place a piece of fine string on the cotter pin before you remove it and before the reinstall as it is a pain looking for it in the bildge.
I have been able to reach it with some long nosed pliers.
Frequently the rubber insulation will strip within the...
I had a similar problem a couple of years back turned out to be the the pickup coil in distributor, cost $45 but a pain as it needs the distributor removing and the pin that holds the gear drifting out.
PS. the continuity can be checked without disassembling.
From the Manual:-
STEP 12...
I did mine with the help of the manual, however I am an engineer.
The boat is 7 months per year in the Spanish Med hence the need for the force (and some heat).
Try taking a photo with a phone to see if there is damage or that the "O" ring is damaged. The "O" ring is very small and must be seated correctly, the barrel nut only needs nipping up not atall tight.
Sounds as if the clicking relay is getting a very small current that is not quite enough to pull it in with a positive click. Have you checked with a volt meter?
That is a bit unusual, have you checked the engine alignment, there should be very little load on the gimbal bearing For & Aft.
I wonder if anyone has removed the corrugated band that surounds the race and provides friction?
I chased a similar problem, does it overheat only at idle or at speed?
This was my problem between the Upper and Lower gear cases.
They have replaced it now with a stainless one but I don't know when that was actioned.
I think you have a fuel problem which you have alluded to.
Check the screen of the fuel pump as it might have caught debris from your tank or even the paint problem. Failing that check the fuel pressures at the low & high sides of the fuel pumps.
Check this out