That green area is what you'd need to drill or mill out for the bubbleback. But has anyone ignored that? id think it wouldn't hurt much as it divides the bubble back exhaust better for more exit velocity vs. being open but I dunno. BTW this is an XP/GT 100 that has the 140 ports.
these use a LOW pressure pump. combined with the anti-siphon water pan sucker 9000, they usually just dribble out at idle. the ONLY thing that matters is cyl head temp at idle in the water. the flat spot TOP of each head must be 125-155f ! people obsess over the indicator flow but that means...
no i meant in the powerhead itself. the exhaust cover and plate. if the tuner/tube in the midsection looks like that, imagine whats on the exhaust side of powerhead! and for that you do need to remove the plate as you will get crud in the cylinders
the real fun on these starts when you need to take off the exhaust to clean the carbon out. 9 out of 10 of these have horrible carbon buildup from hours of slow trolling on inferior oil. those tiny #10 flathead aluminum screws will just snap if you dont take a week to get em out
now all you need is the t stat, x2 grommets and the cork t stat round gasket. this is on ebay. tons of springs available. just a thin coat of permatex aviation around the old t stat housing gasket and its usually just fine.
i think you are being a bit paranoid about engine temp. Im an outboard rebuilder, and the only times youd see an overheat is from sucking up weeds at idle (would need to be a huge patch of seaweed to wrap around the gearcase to drop pressure at intakes) or a clogged t stat but these issues are...
i have literally dozens of fully tested used 200f temp senders. they came in basically every motor from 1978 or so on up through late 80's when the charged to the tan/blue stripe which was around 240f. i usually replace the 240f ones with the solid tan 200f. the quickstart ones are impossible to...
that rectifier will absolutely get damaged with that lipo battery IMO. lead acid only. how does the tach work smoothly? those delicate diodes in the rectifier dont like that. you can get the maintenance free upgraded CDI rectifier (regulated) for about $120 then you can technically use cheap...
those suggestions for setting the throttle cable are critical, and DEAD WRONG here if you have the common side mount control box. its set in FORWARD detent and the lash is pulled out then set the thumbwheel adjusted to trunnion pocket making sure the slow speed screw is FIRMLY against the block...
the vapor separator pump... when running, pull its recirc hose out of its hole in the air silencer up top (it is in the hole, right?) you should easily feel it pulsing air . if ts very weak or nothing, simply remove the hoses to the pump, unscrew it from the separator cover, mark it with a paint...
for most engines thats very true, but not with these specific crossflow V motors! the heavy piston crowns soak up a lot of heat. add the other reasons I listed above and premium fuel is absolutely the logical/better choice. And no, it doesnt reduce power. if anything it increases it.
