if you are in a clean fresh lake, no issues. if you are like me and boat in super weedy shallow saltwater, we get alarms all over the place! but the other way an outboard overheats is far more common than loss of water pressure: thermostats stuck closed. or almost as bad (for a longer period)...
the 150-175hp 60 degrees will fit (1991-up), carbed or FICHT i believe. maybe a simple shift shaft swap on some years. the big 3.0 200-250hp v6 will not fit. different driveshaft.
just to clarify: when the carbs were rebuilt, did they also do the throttle bodies? basically the entire idle circuit depends on the little holes in the calibration pockets in the throttle bodies and MUST be whistle-clean or it wont idle. the little covers with the 2 phillips screws all have...
DVA cranking voltage is the only way to know for sure if you need an expensive part replaced. You can use a meter without one, but must be rated to handle it, and then add 30% to that highest number you get will bring you in the ballpark. should be right around 175-250v DVA or so depending. do...
does it spark w. plugs in? needs to turn 250rpm or so. full charge on battery. it does sound like you are describing a lean condition though. primer works and throttle plates 100% closed? how many turns out are the slow speed needles?
for the last 100+ years, power from an electric motor has never been the issue. what good is it if it needs inefficient, heavy batteries? zero benefit in a marine application as modern 4 strokes are near silent, and way lighter as a complete powertrain that can get incredible range.
thats a PREMIX only motor! thats TCW3 oil (synthetic recommended but any TCW3 will do) and NOT lawn and garden or jet ski/snowmobile oil. i sure hope the previous owner didnt run strait fuel through it!
I always thought the strongest 6hp made was the top-mounted version with the big 8hp ports. obviously an 8hp would whoop a 50's 7.5hp, and its usually lighter and similar price. the 8hp was a completely different beast power-wise than the 6hp same year.
