Re: Oil injection alarm problems---LOOK HERE
Sorry, the original whole post got cut off, so here it is. I have started a few topics about oil injection alarm problems and switchbox troubles. Check out my previous posts to see if you have the same problem that I have, I detailed my exact problems under a few different topics that I started. I finally think I have a solution. The problem that was diagnosed with the help of many of our fellow posters is that a faulty switchbox can cause the oil injection alarm to sound a steady beep, beep, beep. If you can not get the alarm to stop beeping and you know that oil is pumping, try swapping your 2 switchboxes and see if the alarm stops beeping. Mine did after I swapped the switchboxes today. The outer switchbox has a lead that goes to the oil control module on the port side of the engine. This switch box may have a glitch in it and send a false signal to the oil control module that trips off the oil pump motion sensor alarm. <br /> The second point is that no one seems to know how (including me) to properly remove the oil injection system from your outboard. This information is being passed on to you by rickracers from Kissimmee, Florida. They put together a kit and instructions to do the job right. This kit is used on there racing mercury outboards that have the oil injection removed because the pump plastic gears are not reliable above 6000 rpms. Here is the message that he sent me.......We put a custom kit together, it consists of a special blockoff plug/plate, rubber o-ring, threaded block plug, and necessary screw hardware. It costs around $15-$20.<br /><br />DON'T make your own plate. The special Merc plate has a plug on the back of it that occupies the space left behind where the pump shaft and gear was, this ensures that the engine does not run differently due to crankcase volume change, and ensures that the internal bushing doesn't fall inside. <br /> <br />Remove the oil pump, tanks, and hoses. Remove the rotational sensor. Replace the tee fitting fuel hose with a straight new hose. Remove the "oil warning module." (Dash horn will remain connected to overheat temp sender.) Replace pump with plug and rubber o-ring. Remove air pressure fitting from lower right side of block, and replace the check valve with the threaded plug from the kit. If you are still using the original timing advance/idle stabilizer module(s), you will need to shorten their mounting screws to re-mount them, since they are usually stacked together with the oil warning module.<br /><br />DRAIN YOUR FUEL SYSTEM, add oil to the gas (50:1 for light use, 40:1 for "over 6K abuse."), empty the fuel supply hose and re-prime the system.<br /><br />DONE! In less than an hour."<br /><br />Hope this helps any frustrated mercury owners, and remember to help out others who have had the same problems that you have had. <br /><br />Here is the link to the free online Mercury Manuals. <br />
http://www.biggerhammer.net/mercury/factory_manuals/ <br />Hope this helps everyone out, good day and keep those Mercs in first class shape, Joe.
