Should plugs get wet?

[itstippy]

1961 18HP Seahorse. I got it as a basket case so I've never seen it run. Tore it all apart (didn't open the case though), cleaned every last part, all new gaskets. 95 lbs compression top & bottom. New coils, condensers, points, plugs - excellent blue spark over 3/8 gap. Cleaned carb and new carb kit. Baby should run. Will not start. I about wore my arm out pulling the rope (waste of time, I know, if it doesn't start after 10 pulls it probably won't after 100). Sprayed premix in the intake and pulled some more. Gives one "chug", then nothing. Finally, exhausted, I removed the plugs and hooked an electric drill to the flywheel nut to do some real fuel and spark tests (can't see diddly when I'm hauling away on the starting rope). Excellent spark. I pulled the fuel line from the carb and the fuel pump is pump, pump, pumping. However, NO gas vapor comes out of the plug holes when everything's hooked up and I crank the motor. After all my pulling the plugs were bone dry, too. I removed the carb and with the drill turning the motor I can feel suction at the carb mount hole. So the carb MUST be plugged, but it sure looks clean as can be. I've got it disassembled again and when I spray carb cleaner in the various passages it squirts out where it should. Grr! Wouldn't I have a lot of gas vapor coming out of the plug holes when I crank the motor if the carb were doing its thing? This is driving me crazy. This is not one of those gleefull posts where a guy spends many happy hours rebuilding a motor and it starts on the first pull. I did have a lot of fun tearing it apart and making it nice (rebuilt the lower unit, converted to short shaft, replaced rubber shock mounts, etc etc). But now it is time for it to RUN!

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Don't go nuts just yet. Back to basics. Fuel, compression and spark, at the right time. Some things to check.<br />Points set at .020 with crankshaft keyway aligned with rub block of points.<br />Coils aligned on their mounting bosses<br />Flywheel key intact<br />Sync and link<br />Reeds OK?? <br />Upper and lower crank seals OK?<br />Plug wires on the right plug?<br />Sprayed premix into the carb throat should give you a bit more that just one chug.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Is there a possibility that the exhaust is somehow plugged? Forgotten rag or something?<br /><br />If you've been pulling it that much and it's been choked and the plugs are dry - it's got to be a fuel problem. Since you bypassed the carb by spraying premix, and all you have is a chug, fuel does not appear to be getting to the cyls. So, primary compression and exhaust are what I would focus in on.<br /><br />Good luck - were all pulling for you here!

 

[Jermyn]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Regardless if the exhaust is plugged or there is a compression issue, after 100 pulls, your plugs should be drenched. <br /><br />I'd bet the float is hanging up somehow on the carb. When you took the carb back apart was The bowl filled with gas? Did you set the float height/travel when you put in the new carb kit?<br /><br />I'm not sure of the configuration of your specific carb but if you have an adjustable needle valve for slow speed, did you back it out to the correct tolerance?<br /><br />Made sure there is no blockage in the fuel filter (if there is one between the pump and the carb)<br /><br />Hope that helps,<br /><br />Brad

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

I once made a base gasket without a hole for the exhaust. I can vouch that if the exhaust is completely plugged, the spark plugs don't get wet. <br /><br />EDIT: Ah, but if I had taken out the plugs, the fuel would have blown out the holes. Good point!

 

[Jermyn]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Sure, Sure.... but only if you plug the head with your thumb on the downstroke and let the air escape on the upstroke. Otherwise it will just push the air in and out of the plug hole and you won't get much pull on the intake to get the plugs wet. <br /><br />Regardless, spinning the engine with a drill should get some gas into the cylinders even if they are open with no plugs. Stippy, if you are not smelling any gas in the cylinders then it's a fuel problem.<br /><br />If it was truly plugged exhaust, it would have to be plugged right at the head and plugged good. Otherwise you would still get one or two cylces before it died. <br /><br />I'm still betting Carb....but I could be wrong <br /><br />I'd like to know

 

[G DANE]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Did you put the reed plate in backwards ?? Dont know if its possible though.Or maybe the reed leaves on the frontside ?? Not to insult you.

 

[itstippy]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

I went back over everything, put the carb back on and started pulling. A cough now and then but nothing very encouraging and my guts hurt from pulling that %$#$! rope. Finally I threw caution to the wind and started it with the drill. It took a long time, too. I sprayed premix in the carb throat and let 'er rip. I never would have gotten it running by pulling on the rope. After many chugs and pops she finally started, and after that she ran like a champ. At least at low throttle in a barrel with no prop. I let it run for about 20 minutes and shut it down. We'll see tomorrow how it starts. I still don't understand why I couldn't soak the plugs by pulling the rope. Maybe having sat for years, then being all pulled apart, cleaned, and put back together, it needed to learn how to run again. Many components working in unison. If it doesn't start easy with the pull rope tomorrow I'll have to start troubleshooting again. Sure ran sweet for that 20 minutes, and music to my ears.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Sound,s like you have the carb float upside down.

 

[chris in va]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

Wow, sounds exactly like my problem with the '77, except I have wet plugs. Pulled that $@#% cord until the clockspring unwound. <br /><br />I'll have to try the drill technique.

 

[itstippy]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

I'm not recommending the drill technique as a handy tip for starting balky outboards. It could cause serious damage to the motor or the user (stripped driveshaft threads, severed fingers). This is an old motor I bought for parts and decidied was too good to scrap - if I wrecked it I still had the parts. But it can be done because I done did it. <br />Approach the project with the same calm alertness you'd use when dropping a dangerous tree that leans the wrong way. Reduce risks. Motor must be solidly mounted so it's not going anywhere. Your footing must be excellent and your escape route clear - if things start to happen fast you've got to be ready to just pitch everything and get clear and let the pieces fall. I used a 1/2 inch chucked heavy-duty variable speed drill made for torque (not a high speed drill). I cut a 2" male end off a socket extension to use as a mandrel for the socket. I wadded paper in the socket so I had to push down to make good contact with the flywheel nut - stop pushing down and the socket pops off the nut. I taped the chuck that hangs on the drill's powercord down tight to the cord so it wouldn't get caught it the flywheel. My wife watched the procedings.

 

[Joey One]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

I don't think fuel vapor will come out of the sparkplug holes because, without the plugs, the<br />pistons can,t create a vacuum to pull in the fuel.<br />Squirt some fuel directly into the cylinders, install the plugs; if you get a momentary start, you have a fuel problem.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: Should plugs get wet?

itstippy,<br />Been following your thread for awhile. I'm glad you were finally able to get the old girl to pop, but you still have some work to do.<br />Try something, when you have it running. Try spraying a small bit of carb spray at the seams of the powerhead/crankcase. If the RPM's pick up for a second, you have a primary compression/exhaust leak in the case. After running for a bit, pop the flywheel and look for oil around the upper crank seal too.