Johnson 115

ekubuckeye

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
15
I would like to check the impellar/water pump on my outboard as I believe it is not cooling properly. I removed the bolts to drop the lower housing and it would not budge even a little. I am sure I got all the bolts but after researching a little I found that I have to remove the forward/reverse linkage so it will drop down. Is this correct? The linkage looks to be permanently riveted or pressed together(I'm looking at the linkage right under the carbs where it decends into the engine). What am I missing/not doing right? Thanks in advanvce.
 

SCO

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
1,463
Re: Johnson 115

Yes, you do have to disconnect the shift linkage from the engine side. I Dont recall offhand what the fastener is, but it was easy to disconnect and recognize on mine. I recall a bell crank to the linkage....maybe where the linkage connects to the bellcrank? Recommend that you look again with renewed confidence. Maybe the shifter is in a position where you can see the attachment method.
 

WillyBWright

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Messages
8,200
Re: Johnson 115

Year or model number please?<br /><br />Older ones have an arm that if you reomve the pivot, the arm will separate and disengage the shift shaft. Newer ones have a hairpin that you pull out, then push in the linkage and the pin will disengage the shift shaft. Then there are some where you have to get at a screw buried deep under the carbs. Remove that and the shift shaft will be free.
 

cvx35

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 13, 2004
Messages
103
Re: Johnson 115

If your 115 is a late model, you may have to look at starboard side under carbs. If you see a cotter type clip pin, you need to remove it with needle nose pliers and then push that shift arm assembly towards the port side of the engine. This will disengage the shift pin. It's easier to see the pin if you shift into reverse gear. Otherwise it could be a bolt as above mentioned on either side of engine...3/8ths head on bolt... also easier to access when in reverse gear.GOOD LUCK
 

ekubuckeye

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
15
Re: Johnson 115

Thanks folks! It is a mid 70's engine. No model # on me as it is stored far from where I live. Come spring thaw I will get back at it. I appreciate your help.
 

Solittle

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 28, 2002
Messages
7,518
Re: Johnson 115

ekubuckeye - Get the shop manual while you are waiting.
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
Messages
10,161
Re: Johnson 115

Yep....what Solittle and Kenny said...and I would bet you didn't take the trim tab off and get the bolt under there. If you did, good job.<br /><br />Get the manual anyhow....it will make the job do much easier... :D :D
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Johnson 115

yep use the manual<br /> hydro-assist had a different disconnect procedure than mechanical shift. and if its old enough it may be hydro-electric shift. all require different removal procedures. if its hydro-mechanical the also replace the tiny bushing in the shift block at the top of the shift rod.<br /> good luck and keep posting but buy a manual
 

ekubuckeye

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
15
Re: Johnson 115

Thanks,<br />Yes I got the trim tab bolt but still wouldn't budge. I am almost positive that the engine newer than the boat(1974 Glastron Bayflite). Is there a way to get the year? Model # give that?
 

OBJ

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
Messages
10,161
Re: Johnson 115

Mornin eku......the bolt I'm talkin about is up in the cavity when you remove the trim tab. Should be 1/2" socket head.<br /><br />With all the bolts removed, the unit should drop down some even if the shift rod is connected. Or the water tube is stuck in the water pump housing grommet or the drive shaft splines are stuck in the crankshaft.<br /><br />Yes...give us the models number.<br /><br />Keep us posted.
 

ekubuckeye

Cadet
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
15
Re: Johnson 115

I'll get #'s come spring and something must be stuck as you described because I did take the bolt out you metioned. Hammer and wood block the right tool to free the sucker up?
 
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