1978 Chrysler 85HP Powerhead Swap

WinnerCougar74

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May 12, 2020
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Topgun; How are things going with the powerhead swap? Also I recently got a few parts from Franz. He says he will have almost any parts I would need for "some time to come". Also a rebuilt lower unit would cost $1050 if I ever need it.
At the moment I am going to run my Chrysler for another year or 2 then switch to a mid 90's Johnson/Evinrude 115hp. It will have similar power to my 135 but many more new parts are available. It has proven to be a reliable motor. I found a guy near Virgina Beach, VA that will sell me a "Restored" (not just rebuilt) one for $5000 including warranty, controls, installation and on the water tuning. He also does rebuilt where I would do everything else myself for $3200.
 

topgun3690

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May 7, 2019
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Topgun; How are things going with the powerhead swap? Also I recently got a few parts from Franz. He says he will have almost any parts I would need for "some time to come". Also a rebuilt lower unit would cost $1050 if I ever need it.
At the moment I am going to run my Chrysler for another year or 2 then switch to a mid 90's Johnson/Evinrude 115hp. It will have similar power to my 135 but many more new parts are available. It has proven to be a reliable motor. I found a guy near Virgina Beach, VA that will sell me a "Restored" (not just rebuilt) one for $5000 including warranty, controls, installation and on the water tuning. He also does rebuilt where I would do everything else myself for $3200.
Hey Winner, the swap is going good....I work on it when I can (still working full time). Am kinda slow since I am not a real outboard mechanic, but am taking my time so I don't have to go back and redo anything that wasn't done right the first time. Hope to get the carbs done this week, set the timing, then do the link and sync. Yeah, I think Franz will be around for a while....will take him years to get rid of all his inventory. That deal in VA sounds good to me, with installation and warranty. I saw some used motors in that HP range for almost as much, with no warranty, installation, and really in unknown condition.
 

topgun3690

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Have also had to order some parts here and there, then have to wait a week or so to get them.....nuts, bolts, waterline seals, etc. It really slows down the process.....but luckily have been able to find everything I needed.
 

topgun3690

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Will be back at it tomorrow.....get the carbs clean and set up properly. When I get to step #6 in Frank's link and sync (setting timing) got a couple questions.....since this is a different PH I will have to set up the initial TDC....and this new PH has no timing pointer(came off a 1986 Force). Thought I would rig up the pointer from the original PH somehow to use as a reference.....the manual says to use special tool #FTA2937-1 but of course I don't have one and can't find one anywhere. Once TDC is set and the pointer is aligned...and the distributor pulley is set at TDC.....what should the final setting be? The manual says 32 degrees BTDC....Frank's stickie says 30 and I have heard some say 28 degrees? Set at WOT of course.....
 

The Force power

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Feb 3, 2019
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Will be back at it tomorrow.....get the carbs clean and set up properly. When I get to step #6 in Frank's link and sync (setting timing) got a couple questions.....since this is a different PH I will have to set up the initial TDC....and this new PH has no timing pointer(came off a 1986 Force). Thought I would rig up the pointer from the original PH somehow to use as a reference.....the manual says to use special tool #FTA2937-1 but of course I don't have one and can't find one anywhere. Once TDC is set and the pointer is aligned...and the distributor pulley is set at TDC.....what should the final setting be? The manual says 32 degrees BTDC....Frank's stickie says 30 and I have heard some say 28 degrees? Set at WOT of course.....
I think Frank explains the set up in the video
 

Nordin

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Jun 12, 2010
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It is in FrankAs video.
If you have belt driven distributor (Motorola) ignition system, you set at WOT 30 dgr BTDC static without cranking.
If you have magneto CDI system (Prestolite) you set at WOT 28 drg BTDC at cranking speed (dynamic). This will end up with 30 drg running at WOT.
 

topgun3690

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It is in FrankAs video.
If you have belt driven distributor (Motorola) ignition system, you set at WOT 30 dgr BTDC static without cranking.
If you have magneto CDI system (Prestolite) you set at WOT 28 drg BTDC at cranking speed (dynamic). This will end up with 30 drg running at WOT.
I have the belt driven distributor...thanks for the info Nordin.
 

WinnerCougar74

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May 12, 2020
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I am the same way. I can't keep at it cuz there are many other projects. I hope it all comes together for you. I have read some say after you get TDC you can time the engine with a timing light in the WOT position while cranking the starter. That sound like the best way to do it because it's very much like a running motor.
 

topgun3690

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I am the same way. I can't keep at it cuz there are many other projects. I hope it all comes together for you. I have read some say after you get TDC you can time the engine with a timing light in the WOT position while cranking the starter. That sound like the best way to do it because it's very much like a running motor.
Thanks Winner....it's coming together. Today I worked on the carbs...first time I have done it myself. Should be done tomorrow. Called Franz today, had a question for him....he answered my questions then told me he was in the hospital recovering from double bypass and valve repair surgery. He will be out of commission for a while I reckon, but he STILL answers the phone! He is a great guy and I hope he bounces back soon.
 

topgun3690

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My carbs are Tillotson WB21C.....newbie question.....my Chrysler manual gives good instructions for disassembly of these carbs but does not say anything about removing the main nozzle....just the main jet. I didn't see how to get it out of there either. My Seloc manual was no help. Does it need to be removed for a proper cleaning?
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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Don't break it down any further.
Just asking for trouble.
How much crud was in the bowl when it was removed??
Lots?? then the welch plugs need removing and the passage needs cleaning.
Very little?? then a spray can of cleaner with the straw can clean it.
 

topgun3690

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"Don't break it down any further." I was hoping you would say that Jerry....thanks. Found no crud in the bowls.....was surprisingly clean. Dirtiest part was the throttle and choke shutters....
 

jerryjerry05

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The air screw, remove it and spray carb cleaner in the hole.
That should clean any crud from the hidden passages.
Make sure the needle(rubber tip) is good, the rubber tip not deformed.
The solid needle: the seat, make sure it's not falling apart(magnifying glass)
 

topgun3690

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I have the solid needles....they all looked good, no grooves or wear. The seats looked good to me. Washed/soaked the carb bodies in Simple green and water, then blasted them with carb cleaner spray and compressed air.
 

jerryjerry05

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Some cleaners and sprays can make the rubber swell and shut off the flow. The carb soaks are the worst for swelling the rubber.
Just washing them off( I use Dawn) removes most of the chemicals and as they dry they shrink.
Had a problem with early Seafoam. Used in the fuel and it swelled the oring in the carb seat and shut off the flow.
I use Dawn for 99% of my cleaning(no I don't own stock :)
 

topgun3690

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May 7, 2019
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Yesterday got the carbs mounted, choke set up, throttle tie bar on.....did the lapping procedure for the flywheel. At next opportunity will mount flywheel with new nut and torque it down. Finish installing fuel hoses then do the link and sync. Appreciate all the input so far. (y)
 
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