1984 Evinrude xp150 VRO

[PRYO_77]

I found the instructions in the manual and online. It seems that I don't have the proper tools to do a thorough check. I love the shop manual...but I forget that I don't have the shop tools. I've done more research online and have read over and over about how bypassing the VRO is a good move. Most everyone has said it's for peace of mind if anything. I have found that bypassing the VRO is a much simpler task than Testing the pump. But I'm open to suggestions.

 

[cfauvel]

I found the instructions in the manual and online. It seems that I don't have the proper tools to do a thorough check. I love the shop manual...but I forget that I don't have the shop tools. I've done more research online and have read over and over about how bypassing the VRO is a good move. Most everyone has said it's for peace of mind if anything. I have found that bypassing the VRO is a much simpler task than Testing the pump. But I'm open to suggestions.

you can disconnect it but I wouldn't

here is the vro bible...you MAY have the older unit...so in that case yeah maybe run premix.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

to test it
a gallon can of premix fuel...and a hose connected from pump to this can of premix
a 1 foot or so of clear 1/4 ID tubing...connect one end to the oil inlet of the pump...mark off on the tube in 1 inch increments with a sharpie....
fill the clear tube with oil...keep the open end up.
have some one start motor whilst on water muffs.
observe oil being sucked in and time the start of the sucking for 12 inches of oil being sucked. I don't recall how many minutes it should suck 12 pulses, but the fact it is sucking means it is working.

also the fact that the motor is running means the fuel pump side of the vro is functioning.

I've been running a VRO2 on my motor for 31 years...replaced them twice cuz I didn't know any better the first time (forgot what the issue was) and the second time cuz the fuel diaphragm failed. My latest has been on there for over a decade.

take a photo of the vro's connection.

 

[PRYO_77]

Man...thank you!!! After reading that article I have decided to keep the VRO attached. That was a wealth of info and really helped me wade through all the VRO myths I've heard. I ordered a new filter and have new oil for the tank. I will perform the test and post the results.

 

[cfauvel]

Man...thank you!!! After reading that article I have decided to keep the VRO attached. That was a wealth of info and really helped me wade through all the VRO myths I've heard. I ordered a new filter and have new oil for the tank. I will perform the test and post the results.

does yours have the electronics to the side of the oil inlet? If not the repair kit for the fuel and air side should be compatible with today's fuel...according the bible the first version had diaphragms that didn't last

individually the part numbers are thus
Gas side kit - part # 0436095
air side kit - part # 0435921
oblong oil ring seal on oil side - part# 0124886
tiny round oil ring on oil side - part#0125396


UTube has videos of repairing the diaphragms...

 

[cfauvel]

whats the word?

 

[PRYO_77]

Hey gang...sorry it's been so long. Work, work, work...you know the drill.

Ok...I'll be brief.
So lower unit serviced. Water pump, gaskets new o ring on shift rod. Held 11 psi for like 30 min 2wice. Awesome.
Got the lower end reinstalled. Awesome.
Got the motor started. Awesome.

Here's the probs that I need MAD help with asap.

1. Motor won't shift into reverse now. Shifter is shifting fine.

2. Alarm is sounding constantly when motor is running. I have read the warning alarm descriptions so correct me if I'm wrong.
- fuel flow restriction: Continuous sound and engine opperates at or near maximum speed.
The only problem is that I have full throttle control. It's not out of control running at max speed like crazy.

I DID NOT bypass the VRO...however. When I changed the oil in the reservoir I notice that it was really chunky at the bottom. AND there wasn't a filter attached. So whoever changed it last didn't know what they were doing. New filter is installed. I'm afraid that there is debris in the line. I don't feel any fluid running through the line when I squeeze the bulb.

Any help would be really appreciated guys. Thanks.

 

[Fed]

1. Motor won't shift into reverse now. Shifter is shifting fine.

Shift rod height or cable adjustment, did you change the shift rod height, did you measure the shift rod height?
Motor or prop needs to be turning when engaging gears to allow the dog clutch to engage.

2. Alarm is sounding constantly when motor is running. I have read the warning alarm descriptions so correct me if I'm wrong.
- fuel flow restriction: Continuous sound and engine opperates at or near maximum speed.
The only problem is that I have full throttle control. It's not out of control running at max speed like crazy.

I think that should read when.

I DID NOT bypass the VRO...however. When I changed the oil in the reservoir I notice that it was really chunky at the bottom. AND there wasn't a filter attached. So whoever changed it last didn't know what they were doing. New filter is installed. I'm afraid that there is debris in the line. I don't feel any fluid running through the line when I squeeze the bulb.

Disconnect the oil line at the vro and pump the primer until you get fresh clean oil coming out, need a can to catch it.

 

[PRYO_77]

Thanks for the reply!

So I should probably take the lower end back off and check the shift rod height right? Ugh...

Question: could something have gone wrong while servicing the lower end?

 

[Fed]

So I should probably take the lower end back off and check the shift rod height right? Ugh...

Definitely if you moved it & I would measure it anyway because you never know what previous owners have done.

Question: could something have gone wrong while servicing the lower end?

I doubt it if you didn't open the gearcase.

You should do all this with the shift cable disconnected then adjust & connect the shift cable as the last step.
Don't forget to run 50:1 pre-mix in the tank until you confirm oil usage by marking the level on the oil bottle, double oil won't hurt it.
By that I mean oil from the VRO + oil from the pre-mix = combined 25:1.

 

[PRYO_77]

Ok...I'll take the lower end off and do the measurements. The shift cable goes all the way back against the block so I don't think it's the cable...right?

And on the mix...could you clarify the last statement? 50:1 on the mixing can that's dumped in the tank?

Also...what's your thought on the alarm? Fuel? Oil?

 

[cfauvel]

Ok...I'll take the lower end off and do the measurements. The shift cable goes all the way back against the block so I don't think it's the cable...right?

And on the mix...could you clarify the last statement? 50:1 on the mixing can that's dumped in the tank?

Also...what's your thought on the alarm? Fuel? Oil?

assuming you didn't mess with the shift cable at the engine, then you must have turned the shift rod clockwise or counterclockwise....you'll have to research the height required in neutral for your motor...you'll have to lower the LU.

as far as pre-mix...yes FED is saying to pour a 50;1 ratio of oil into your main tank....so if you have 50 pints of gas then put in 1 pint of oil....50 gals of fuel then 1 gallon of oil.....thus IF the vro is drawing oil, it will be trying to do a 50;1 on top of the 50;1 you have in the gas tank...thus super rich at 25;1.....like FED says it won't hurt anything...

as far as horn....constant horn is fuel obstruction....it is determined by a vacuum switch that is T'd into the fuel line near the VRO...you can disconnect it from the T, disconnect the wires....with a vacuum pump pull a vacuum on the switch and using a multimeter in continuity mode, see at what HG does the switch close the circuit....it should be some where like 4-5 hg.....anything before that, the switch is too weak...


gotta have that filter on the oil pickup.

when you turn the ignition to ON, does the horn sound briefly?....

 

[PRYO_77]

So I did have to mess with shift rod because I I had to replace the o-ring under the shaft cover plate. I had to unscrew it from its base. I didn't measure it so I will do that.

Thanks for the mix ratio clarification.

The alarm does make a sound at ignition and then stays on as engine is running. I will test the VRO...but honestly at this point...I'd rather just bypass it all together. I read the article that was posted in this thread a while back about VRO's...but man...I would just rather have the peace of mind and mix it myself. Thoughts?

 

[cfauvel]

So I did have to mess with shift rod because I I had to replace the o-ring under the shaft cover plate. I had to unscrew it from its base. I didn't measure it so I will do that.

Thanks for the mix ratio clarification.

The alarm does make a sound at ignition and then stays on as engine is running. I will test the VRO...but honestly at this point...I'd rather just bypass it all together. I read the article that was posted in this thread a while back about VRO's...but man...I would just rather have the peace of mind and mix it myself. Thoughts?

Yeah you can do that...you can also disconnect the vacuum switch for fuel obstruction....you'll just scratch your head as to why the motor is bogging at faster speeds..

they make a VRO looking pump that pumps fuel (but no oil), they make other pumps that look like normal pumps too...

 

[Fed]

1st of all put pre-mix in your tank.

Now, what have you got?
1) Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep, a never ending tone.
2) BeepBeepBeepBeepBeepBeep, rapid fire like a machine gun that fluctuates with RPM.
3) Beep......(30 seconds)......Beep......(30 seconds).....Beep.....(30 seconds)......Beep....>

Choose your poison?


Testing the VRO is very simple once we sort out the alarm going off, 1st of all put pre-mix in your tank.

 

[Fed]

Nearly forgot, disconnect your shift cable & remove the cable completely from the motor.
Move the gearcase into neutral.
Move the controller into neutral.
Connect the shift cable to the shift lever.
Adjust the trunnion nut so that it fits nicely into the pocket while the shift lever is in the middle of it's neutral happy zone.

 

[PRYO_77]

Nearly forgot, disconnect your shift cable & remove the cable completely from the motor.
Move the gearcase into neutral.
Move the controller into neutral.
Connect the shift cable to the shift lever.
Adjust the trunnion nut so that it fits nicely into the pocket while the shift lever is in the middle of it's neutral happy zone.

Ok...will do. Is this before or after I take the lower unit off? Would that make it easier to access the shift rod bolt/pin? That thing is rediculously hard to get to.

Btw...everything I've read and watched say to shift into reverse to take off the lower end because it gives "easier" access to the shift rod pin for removal and install. Is this correct?

Here's another thing I was thinking about...when I had the lower unit off I shifted the gears by grabbing onto the shift cable and pulling up for forward and down for reverse. When I take the lower unit off, should I be able to shift into reverse manually? I don't remember if I could do that before.

The alarm is number 1 poison.

I will pour the mix in.

I am so grateful for all the help!

 

[cfauvel]

Ok...will do. Is this before or after I take the lower unit off? Would that make it easier to access the shift rod bolt/pin? That thing is rediculously hard to get to.

Btw...everything I've read and watched say to shift into reverse to take off the lower end because it gives "easier" access to the shift rod pin for removal and install. Is this correct?

Here's another thing I was thinking about...when I had the lower unit off I shifted the gears by grabbing onto the shift cable and pulling up for forward and down for reverse. When I take the lower unit off, should I be able to shift into reverse manually? I don't remember if I could do that before.

The alarm is number 1 poison.

I will pour the mix in.

I am so grateful for all the help!

#1 horn is fuel obstruction, set off by vacuum switch....test the vacuum switch....it would have to be a real big obstruction to make the horn go at idle....(varnish granules blocking filter ports or lines, or fuel line inner lining disintegrating, or fuel lines collapsing..)
if vacuum switch checks out fine...start out at tank pickup with a piece of line and primer bulb...make sure you can pump out fuel with no restriction, then work your way away from tank at each junction...

 

[Fed]

Good morning all (Yawn), #1 horn can also be from overheat or in fact any grounding of the tan wire.
Your motor should only have a VRO with no alarms so unless it's been upgraded to a VRO2 I'd convert it to permanent pre-mix.
Are there any wires going to the VRO? Identifying your VRO or VRO2 is important.

When shifting gears either the motor must be running or you must turn the prop to ensure the dog clutches fully engage.
Shift cable connection is the very last thing you do after first adjusting the shift rod height and refitting the lower unit & connecting to the shift lever.
Connect the rod to the lever any way you can, it doesn't matter because the shift cable will be disconnected at that point.

A question, when you turn the key to ON or start the motor does the horn sound immediately & then continue sounding until you turn it to OFF?

 

[PRYO_77]

To answer your last question...YES.

So the original motor had a VRO with no alarm? If that's the case then I must have a VRO2. Is that good news?

I'm gonna do all the checking on the vacuum switch, primer bulb and so on. Hope to get to it this week sometime.

 

[Fed]

So the original motor had a VRO with no alarm? If that's the case then I must have a VRO2.

How did you conclude you have a VRO2?

Do yourself a favour & go to the maxrules website, select 'technical specifications' from the menu then 'common wiring diagrams' then 'evinrude johnson wiring diagrams' then 'V-6 motors 1984'.
Phew!

Follow the tan wires from the horn to their final destinations.
The closing of any of the switches will result in a continuous beeeeeep.
Any short circuit of the tan wires to ground will do the same.
I suggest the unlabeled switch at the bottom of the circuit diagram will be the oil bottle low level switch.