B3 Corrosion

[goblehipcom]

Re: B3 Corrosion

Those drives were prone to that type of corrosion.Personally,I would avoid them and go for a later year when it was corrected....ddboater--it really does not matter how good or bad a stainless prop is--if you nick it..it will rust,hi or low quality.

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread...but the quote above mentions a year when the corrosion problem was corrected. I'm trying to decide being a 2001 with B3's or a 2000 with VPs. My first choice is the 2001 with B3's because it is slightly better equipped in terms of electronics and has a beautiful blue hull. However, the corrosion issues make me nervous.

Did they make changes on or before 2001 to better address corrosion?

Thanks for any info,
-Brian

 

[JCF350]

Re: B3 Corrosion

Merc must be using inferior stainless these days because my B3 props have started to rust in a few spots where I took some nicks last season. Only 32 hours on the water.

Anyone else noticed this on the dull stainless props (not the high gloss finish)????

This is from the higher carbon content used in the stainless alloy to "harden" the material. Stainless steel is carbon steel alloyed with chromium and nickel (with other alloys depending upon the intended use).

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: B3 Corrosion

Did they make changes on or before 2001 to better address corrosion?

Thanks for any info,
-Brian

Brian, considering they just got the "Sea Core" drive to the market, Mercruiser has been making changes almost continually from about 2000. I personally don't think they ever truly corrected the problem. Sea Core will be an interesting study over the years.
The B3s to look for have 2 anodes in the ventailation plate and a propnut anode. If it doesn't have those, then are just like mine. And again the area to inspect is the rear bearing carrier, hidden by the props. I can't stress enough how important it is to remove the props and check for corrosion there.

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: B3 Corrosion

These are photos of my 1997 drive taken about two years ago.

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: B3 Corrosion

These photos were taken about 5 minutes ago:

This is what you are looking for. But also note, with the repainting, the leaving my battery on ,(and thus my Mercathode) and the switch to the freshwater only anodes, corrosion has more or less halted in the next 2-3 years.

 

[Shaun78]

Re: B3 Corrosion

I would think that the mercathode system would be tied directly to the battery so that you wouldn't have to leave them on, am I correct?

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: B3 Corrosion

You would think that, but it didn't work that way on my boat. Or my dad changed it when he installed the second battery and the switch. Either way, you've gotta know what way yours in wired, and if the the Mercathode is working.

 

[95yj]

Re: B3 Corrosion

A lot of times it's not tied directly to the battery because if you're not plugged in, it'll kill your battery fairly quickly.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: B3 Corrosion

Yeah, old thread.....

The biggest problem with the Bravo III IS the exposed stainless steel props.

Not only do you need a Mercathode if you're going to leave it in salt, brackish or even fresh water, you may need 2!

It MUST be powered all the time and it MUST be "tuned" or adjusted by someone that knows how to set up an electronic corrosion prevention system.

Also, the stray currents MUST be checked frequently to determine if the system is doing it's job correctly. Even someone plugging in their boat in the next slip can change the MerCathode current requirements for yours.

A Mercathode system set up IMPROPERLY WILL QUICKLY corrode any drive. It has NOTHING to do with cheap or different stainless steel mixtures etc. It's electrical currents that cause (or prevent) the corrosion.

I absolutely LOVE this Bravo III. It runs better than the previous drive in every way .

I would not however park my boat for ANY extended time in salt water (or any water for that matter!) I know there are some out there in boater-land that have no choice.

Cheers,

Rick