another winterization question

[splugeeman]

Here we go again. 1st question... Is generic rv/marine water-line antifreeze(good to -2 below zero.... but doesn't mention anything about engine blocks) good enought to put in the block? 2nd ...how do u fill the block with antifreeze and fog the engine at the same time. If u did the block first wouldn't you run it all out when you fogged the engine? I have never had to do both due to a heated storage area. Good or bad my newer boat is to big for the heated storage area.I am now faced with wanting to do this myself rather than pay someone $200.00 bucks to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[KM2]

Re: another winterization question

A lot has been written about this, but I think the antifreeze is an unnecessary PIA. Winterizing is enough work without having to deal with antifreeze. Check your owners manual on how to drain all the water out- it's really easy on my boat. <br /><br />It gets well below zero in the winter here. Often we go days and sometimes weeks when the high temp. for the day isn't above zero. I just drain the water out and don't have any problems.

 

[Don S]

Re: another winterization question

Before you put antifreeze in a raw water cooled engine, you have to drain it. Once it's drained, air can't freeze and break anything. But your RV antifreeze for only -2° will freeze and break things when it gets colder and many doen't have corrosion inhibitors.<br />The reason many use antifreeze is to slow down the corrosion, and if the antifreeze doesn't have any corrosion inhibitors in it, and it only goes to -2°, then why use it. All you are going to be doing is draining it when the temp gets lower than your -2°

 

[splugeeman]

Re: another winterization question

I am not worried about the draining factor. Water will not drain up and over, this is the reason we use antifreeze and FLUSH the system. I was asking if this cheap stuff was good enough

 

[Don S]

Re: another winterization question

In a word, No.

 

[lugster84]

Re: another winterization question

I just drained my previously filled with anti freeze 4.3 litre. The average protection of the anti freeze was only 5 to 10 above. I only used 2 gallons mixed at 50/50. After much consideration, I am going the dry method. The corrosion shouldn't be much of a factor (water sits in the system all summer) and we do the environment a favor by not using any a/f. I have read on those red a/f bottles not to use in gas or diesel engines. Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[KM2]

Re: another winterization question

"Water will not drain up and over"<br /><br />What does this mean?

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: another winterization question

Wish I was at the shop now.I know our RV Freeze is good to 30 or 50 below.But I don't have the label here to read.It does have rust inhibitors in in,and it's what Mercruiser Manuals recommend.<br /><br />While your engine has plain water in it all year long,it is basically full.When you drain the water,the block and manifolds now have air in them,and this accelerates the rust.In the spring some of the rust flushes out of the engine,some settles in the low spots of the block and engine,and some plugs the holes in the exhaust elbows.Doing this year after year has a definete effect.Causing problems down the road.<br /><br />As to the environment,I haven't done a study,but bio-degradeable and non-toxic are why we use RV Freeze.<br /><br />DHP<br /><br />we include the RV Freeze in the Winterizing price,but for the do-it-yourselfer,4 gallons at $4 apeice is good protection for a V8. 2 gallons for a 4 cyl.