Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[Starkonian]

Interesting idea, might see about that. I love this boat but im hoping to get a real boat within 2 years anyways so im not sure how much i more work i want to put into it. Boats great but there is a a great lake close by that id love to fish more but can only do it on days when the wind/waves are not too much and try to stay to the bays.

Yeah, the M-4's advantage is for those with lack of home storage and/or transportation storage. If you have room for a boat and trailer and can pull one, it's a no brainer. Get a boat. Also, the M-4 does win hands down in skinny water. More than once I'm way back in the weeds pulling in bass while the bass boats are stuck on the outside weed edge.

 

[JC2133]

I've come across a few other ideas for rod holders. The ideas come from float tubes. If you Google Image search "float tube rod holder" there are a lot of good ideas that can be incorporated into our Mariners. The basic idea is the rod holder is held outside of the boat held by I hooks and carabiners. Possibly attached to the safety rope around the boat.

Here's a nice set up video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUCccqs8ZrQ

 

[Starkonian]

JC- I've thought about that too. Hanging a rod storage system of some type on the outside and parallel with the tubes but high enough above the water line so the reels don't get soaked. They won't be sticking up in the air and in the way.

I researched the anchor cleat issue and ordered one of these NITE IZE Cam Jam XT. $8 on ebay. Easy adjustment and holds slack and tight lines.

 

[IN Mariner4]

Hi All,

Just finished reading all 111 pages on mods for our Mariner 4 boats and you guys are awesome! I received my M4 a few days ago (got a great deal), got it registered and just got back from buying a Minn Kota Endura Max 55 (36" shaft). Going to work on doing the two piece floor and seats (not sure if I am going to do the seats on ped. or crates) next week. I will take photos of the work and do a small write up on it. I am curious what everyone's recommendations are on what battery to get.
I have learned a lot on here and think its great everyone has come together to share their mods and ideas.

 

[Starkonian]

Hi All,

Just finished reading all 111 pages on mods for our Mariner 4 boats and you guys are awesome! I received my M4 a few days ago (got a great deal), got it registered and just got back from buying a Minn Kota Endura Max 55 (36" shaft). Going to work on doing the two piece floor and seats (not sure if I am going to do the seats on ped. or crates) next week. I will take photos of the work and do a small write up on it. I am curious what everyone's recommendations are on what battery to get.
I have learned a lot on here and think its great everyone has come together to share their mods and ideas.

Welcome!

Good choice on the 55 thrust motor. I went with the Endura 30 and wish I'd shelled out the extra $'s for more torqe. I suggest you consider the Walmart Everstart marine deep cycle 29 DC series. I went with a 27 series from Pep Boys and it's been OK but for the same price you can get a 29 series from Walmart with more reserve power. I've read good reviews on it and have owned one in the past and it worked out well.

 

[IN Mariner4]

Welcome!

Good choice on the 55 thrust motor. I went with the Endura 30 and wish I'd shelled out the extra $'s for more torqe. I suggest you consider the Walmart Everstart marine deep cycle 29 DC series. I went with a 27 series from Pep Boys and it's been OK but for the same price you can get a 29 series from Walmart with more reserve power. I've read good reviews on it and have owned one in the past and it worked out well.

Hi Starkonian,

Thanks for the welcome and recommendation. I guess great minds think a like, I was looking at a 29 from Walmart because a) the ratings looked good and b) a family member works there and can get me a discount (10%). I was originally going to get the Endura 30 because of $$$ but got a surprise when the wife said wouldn't a 55 (which was right next to the 30 on the display stand) be a better one? So I jumped before she changed her mind plus I can swap it over to a Jon boat I am refinishing if need be.

Thanks for the info again!

 

[IN Mariner4]

Started on the floor modification today. I cut the plywood and put some Thompson's water sealer on it. I am going to let that sit over night and sometime tomorrow I will put the carpet on.

 

[Starkonian]

Started on the floor modification today. I cut the plywood and put some Thompson's water sealer on it. I am going to let that sit over night and sometime tomorrow I will put the carpet on.

Check out Scottish' floor build how to...worked well for me. Make sure the floor doesn't cram into the side seams too tightly. I pushed open a seam that way.

 

[JC2133]

Has anyone replaced the factory M4 paddles for a kayak paddle or SUP paddle? If so, is it any easier?

 

[IN Mariner4]

Check out Scottish' floor build how to...worked well for me. Make sure the floor doesn't cram into the side seams too tightly. I pushed open a seam that way.

Hi Starkonian,

Thanks for the reference, I saw that prior to starting. I cut the plywood to I believe 27" or 28" wide (I am away from it now so...) so that I can inflate and drop it in. Have you tried the floor mod on top of the slat floor? I will be standing up a lot and also climbing in and out a lot (going to hit a lot of sand bars and banks on the river for metal detecting so I want it stable).

Thanks for the response!

 

[IN Mariner4]

Has anyone replaced the factory M4 paddles for a kayak paddle or SUP paddle? If so, is it any easier?

I saw a video a while back where someone did and had good success with it. I can not remember what paddle.... if I come across the video again I will post the link here.

 

[Starkonian]

Hi Starkonian,

Thanks for the reference, I saw that prior to starting. I cut the plywood to I believe 27" or 28" wide (I am away from it now so...) so that I can inflate and drop it in. Have you tried the floor mod on top of the slat floor? I will be standing up a lot and also climbing in and out a lot (going to hit a lot of sand bars and banks on the river for metal detecting so I want it stable).

Thanks for the response!

I had to trim a little more off th sides vs. Scottish' recommendations. The boards should be wide enough so the inflated side tubes snug them down against the floor and th inflated keel. I inflate th tubes 1/3, install the oem with only the center slat in place and then position the floor boards on top of that. The floor board center ends lay over the one oem floor slat. I stand and sit, the th boards never move out of position.

 

[Starkonian]

Has anyone replaced the factory M4 paddles for a kayak paddle or SUP paddle? If so, is it any easier?

Check out my "how to" I did to extend the oem oars about 8" and stiffen/strengthen them 4 fold. I think usig a kayak/sup paddle would not work well if you had to muscle your way up wind.

 

[IN Mariner4]

I had to trim a little more off th sides vs. Scottish' recommendations. The boards should be wide enough so the inflated side tubes snug them down against the floor and th inflated keel. I inflate th tubes 1/3, install the oem with only the center slat in place and then position the floor boards on top of that. The floor board center ends lay over the one oem floor slat. I stand and sit, the th boards never move out of position.

I remembered the advice from Scottish about using only the center slat in the OEM floor when I was cutting the plywood. I figured this week I would try it out with the full OEM floor & plywood and then only one slat (center) with plywood. I think the single slat would be fine but I will not be happy until I try it both ways (once I get an idea in my noggin....hard headed here lol).

 

[ScottishScript]

I remembered the advice from Scottish about using only the center slat in the OEM floor when I was cutting the plywood. I figured this week I would try it out with the full OEM floor & plywood and then only one slat (center) with plywood. I think the single slat would be fine but I will not be happy until I try it both ways (once I get an idea in my noggin....hard headed here lol).

I haven't been here in ages and when I do finally visit I'm being referenced, good timing huh?

I recently switched over to my new Mariner 4 and decided to try some tweaks regarding the floor.

Instead of just using the single cut down slat in the center of the floor where the ply boards meet, I tried inserting another slat towards either end of the boat, my thinking being it would offer more support etc..

Unfortunately this made fully inflating the keel tube near impossible as the extra slats with the weight of the play boards merely blocked the air from spreading out along the keel. Once I removed the extra two slats inflating the keel was fine again. But it's always good to try out new ways of doing things.

 

[IN Mariner4]

I haven't been here in ages and when I do finally visit I'm being referenced, good timing huh?

I recently switched over to my new Mariner 4 and decided to try some tweaks regarding the floor.

Instead of just using the single cut down slat in the center of the floor where the ply boards meet, I tried inserting another slat towards either end of the boat, my thinking being it would offer more support etc..

Unfortunately this made fully inflating the keel tube near impossible as the extra slats with the weight of the play boards merely blocked the air from spreading out along the keel. Once I removed the extra two slats inflating the keel was fine again. But it's always good to try out new ways of doing things.

Great timing lol

I was expecting to get out on the water tomorrow but looks like I might be delayed. When I do get out (probably this coming weekend) I am going to try a) full oem floor with plywood floor, b) just single slat as you recommended ages ago in this thread and c) one slat in middle and one in both ends. I didn't think the slats in the ends would affect inflating the keel. Is this the same with the full oem floor and plywood on top of it? I haven't read anything like this but maybe nobody noticed it either or they don't inflate the keel.

Thanks for your tips on your build earlier in this thread Scottish!

 

[ScottishScript]

Great timing lol

I was expecting to get out on the water tomorrow but looks like I might be delayed. When I do get out (probably this coming weekend) I am going to try a) full oem floor with plywood floor, b) just single slat as you recommended ages ago in this thread and c) one slat in middle and one in both ends. I didn't think the slats in the ends would affect inflating the keel. Is this the same with the full oem floor and plywood on top of it? I haven't read anything like this but maybe nobody noticed it either or they don't inflate the keel.

Thanks for your tips on your build earlier in this thread Scottish!

I never fitted the entire original slat floor with the plywood for a couple of reasons.

As mentioned by myself and others in this thread, this boat's one major weakness is the floor. One it's kind of thin and prone to little punctures when being dragged on the shoreline. Two, the seam where the floor attaches to the main body of the boat is susceptible to coming away if you place too much weight on it.

With that in mind, you really don't want to put two whole flooring systems into the boat at the same time. And you don't need it either.

Apart from the weight issue, having all the original slats in will force the plywood floor up into the inflated sides, whereas you merely want it to slide under the inflated chambers for a good fit.

Also please keep in mind, although I do use one and recently two slats in the center of the original floor to support both ply sheets where they meet, those slats are cut down to 2/3 their original length. This is so they do not force the ply sheets upwards at the outer edges to avoid abrasion with the air chambers.

When it comes to mods, this boat's enemy is weight and abrasion. So think about those two things any time you come up with an idea.

Using only two cut down slats in the original floor at the center where the ply sheets meet, drastically reduces weight.

And once you fully inflate the keel, it pushes those two cut down slats up hard against the ply sheets to hold them in position and prevent movement that could result in tears, especially if a ply sheet develops a rough edge you don't immediately notice.

If you avoid the grief myself and others have inflicted upon ourselves with mad mods that didn't work you'll be fine.

Just get out on the water and don't overthink it. Experience trumps all. Hope this answers.

 

[Starkonian]

Yes, every pound in weight reduction helps. I've been using the one center slat but not cut. Maybe I need to re-think that... I not worried about abrasion from the multiple floors as much as prying the seam apart form the tube. I did that once already. Point loading any particular section or spot is not good.

 

[IN Mariner4]

I never fitted the entire original slat floor with the plywood for a couple of reasons.

As mentioned by myself and others in this thread, this boat's one major weakness is the floor. One it's kind of thin and prone to little punctures when being dragged on the shoreline. Two, the seam where the floor attaches to the main body of the boat is susceptible to coming away if you place too much weight on it.

With that in mind, you really don't want to put two whole flooring systems into the boat at the same time. And you don't need it either.

Apart from the weight issue, having all the original slats in will force the plywood floor up into the inflated sides, whereas you merely want it to slide under the inflated chambers for a good fit.

Also please keep in mind, although I do use one and recently two slats in the center of the original floor to support both ply sheets where they meet, those slats are cut down to 2/3 their original length. This is so they do not force the ply sheets upwards at the outer edges to avoid abrasion with the air chambers.

When it comes to mods, this boat's enemy is weight and abrasion. So think about those two things any time you come up with an idea.

Using only two cut down slats in the original floor at the center where the ply sheets meet, drastically reduces weight.

And once you fully inflate the keel, it pushes those two cut down slats up hard against the ply sheets to hold them in position and prevent movement that could result in tears, especially if a ply sheet develops a rough edge you don't immediately notice.

If you avoid the grief myself and others have inflicted upon ourselves with mad mods that didn't work you'll be fine.

Just get out on the water and don't overthink it. Experience trumps all. Hope this answers.

Thanks for the advice, I do tend to overthink things too much .

One last question on this subject. I ended up cutting the plywood (I believe 27" wide) so that it can be dropped in and removed when the boat is inflated. So after reading your suggestion (and I will go with either one or two center slats only), since the wood will not be under the main tubes/chambers will this be ok or should I re-cut the wood wider so it fits under but not all the way to the sides? In other words, even though the plywood does not slide under the main chambers/tubes will it be ok that way or should I redo or will the keel being inflated support it ok? I was also thinking of putting those pipe insulators on the edges, if so that would be partly under the tubes, that maybe the support I need to keep the plywood in place. Sorry I am over thinking again. I am in the waiting room at the VA Hospital so I have some time to over think

 

[IN Mariner4]

Yes, every pound in weight reduction helps. I've been using the one center slat but not cut. Maybe I need to re-think that... I not worried about abrasion from the multiple floors as much as prying the seam apart form the tube. I did that once already. Point loading any particular section or spot is not good.

I have been trying to cut weight and reduce my "load out" plan for camping and detecting. I do understand what you guys are saying, I was mainly focusing on stability and less on weight because I figured 880 is no where close to what I will be hauling except on one or two occasions (maybe 600 lbs). I was not thinking of the weak flooring. In that regard, it seems to my under educated and warped mind that the full oem floor would be better support than none but I guess I really need to understand the dynamics of the construction LOL. But I do understand what you guys are saying, especially if it is too wide it will rub/wear out the sides and the extra weight will cause it to rip out or at least add to weakening an already weak floor.

Sorry I have a lot of time in this waiting room to think or shall I say over think